Cream (cosmetics)

A significant part of ancient cosmetics was made up of aromatic oils and ointments , which were obtained from vegetable and animal fats . They were mixed with infusions of flowers, tonic and medicinal additives were introduced.

In the Mediterranean, olive oil was most often used as a cream base. Many African tribes use raffia palm oil for cosmetic purposes. In Oceania, fat-containing cosmetic substances are usually made from coconut oil, which is then mixed with palm and castor oil, animal fat and even cow oil with the addition of mahogany, ginger root, herbs or metal dust.

It is believed that the famous ancient physician Galen created a mixture of spermaceti, wax, almond oil and water, called "cold cream" - "cold cream". For centuries, it was the only cream.

The basis of all modern skin care creams, as in ancient times, is a composition of fatty substances, water and biologically active components. Since water and oil do not mix, emulsifiers are introduced.

Depending on the destination, creams are distinguished:

• Moisturizing
• Nutritious
• Matting
• Anti-aging (anti-wrinkle cream)
• Anti - cellulite - is not a cure for cellulite, but only helps to cope with it, along with diet and special exercises
• Cleansing (scrub) - a cream with solid particles, designed for light massage of the skin, in which the particles cleanse the skin of a layer of dead cells. Depending on the size and hardness of the particles, there are soft daily scrubs, ordinary ones (for use no more than 2 times a week), body scrubs, foot scrubs (usually the most severe). (see also Peeling )
• Sunscreen - the composition includes aloe, para-aminobenzoic acid , esters of hydroquinone, persol, zinc oxide and titanium, ocher and others. All of them play the role of filters .
• Protective (anti-weather cream, winter cream) - is characterized by increased fat content and contains substances that create a protective film on the surface of the skin. Protects from low temperatures, low humidity, wind and other severe weather conditions for the skin.
• Tanning / car bronzant - a cream that creates the effect of tanned skin. Self-tanning contains components that stimulate the production of melanin by the skin, which creates a real tan that lasts from three days to a week. Autobronzant only stains the skin in a darker color. Often these functions are combined for the convenience of applying the cream. When using tanning, caution is needed, as is the case with hair coloring.
• Foundation and other tonal products (spray, cream powder ).
• Treatment cream - special products designed to combat certain skin defects and imperfections. These include creams against rosacea, age spots, redness, acne, seborrhea, etc.
• Baby cream (diaper cream) - a special cream to protect the baby’s skin from urine and feces under the diaper. In addition to protective components, such a cream contains components that reduce moisture (talc, zinc oxide).
• Massage cream - Massage cream helps to improve the effect of the procedure itself and facilitate the sliding of hands on the skin. Improves microcirculation. This tool, which not only increases the effectiveness of the procedure, but also has additional properties.

The same cream can combine several functions.

A cream of liquid consistency is called milk or cream (sometimes - lotion, for example, “after sun lotion”). Some medical, tonal, sunscreen and tanning creams are also available in the form of a spray.

A protective cream is a cream that interacts with dead cells of the outer layer of the skin - the epidermis - restoring its integrity, and acts as a protective barrier, keeping the oil and moisture produced by the body inside and preventing harmful substances from penetrating into the deeper layers of the skin .

This barrier is similar to the natural barrier that the skin must form when it is not exposed to the destructive effects of the external environment, namely those substances that are not natural irritants (household chemicals, shampoos, soap and frequent washing of the hands easily destroy the thin protective film formed by the skin from oils and lipids ). A protective cream prevents the penetration of irritants through the epidermis into the deeper layers of the skin. In addition, it helps preserve the natural moisture and natural oils produced by the body, which are responsible for the integrity and elasticity of the skin.

Difference from traditional moisturizers

Dry skin can be caused by many different reasons, but the result remains the same - the amount of fluid produced by the skin is not enough to moisturize it, the skin becomes dry, rough, can crack and even bleed.

The principle of moisturizing creams is that they try to make up for the lack of fluid in the skin by adding artificial moisture. The disadvantage of this method is that it does not eliminate the problem — it does not increase the production of natural moisture, but rather sends a signal to the skin that the skin already contains enough moisture. The skin responds by reducing fluid production and becoming dependent on artificial moisturizing.

In addition, the duration of the moisturizer is short, as it can be easily washed off or wiped off the surface of the skin. Oil-based moisturizers “sit” on the surface of the skin, can be oily, sticky, attract dirt and cause clogging of pores.

The protective cream does not remain on the surface, it is completely absorbed and becomes part of the skin, is not washed off by water and does not wear off when it comes in contact with fabric or other materials, and also does not leave greasy marks. The action of the cream ceases naturally when it comes off in the process of exfoliating dead skin cells.

Protective creams provide the skin with sufficient protection so that the balance of fluid in the skin can recover and the skin can begin to independently perform its protective functions. Protective creams do not interfere with perspiration and promote skin respiration .

Protection

The skin is a natural barrier that protects the internal organs from damage, hypothermia, overheating , prevents the entry of viruses , bacteria , dirt and chemicals, and also prevents loss of fluid.

In the modern world, people daily encounter a wide variety of irritants, many of which 100 years ago did not exist. Among the most frequently encountered products are cosmetics and perfumes, soaps, shampoos, household chemicals , and detergents.

These irritants destroy a thin protective film on the surface of the skin, leaving it unprotected. The skin becomes dry, loses elasticity, peeling and cracking. The integrity of the skin is violated, the skin can no longer fulfill its protective functions, irritants penetrate the skin, affecting deeper layers, which can lead to the development of various skin diseases. Using moisturizers only masks the problem of dry skin, but does not solve it.

Protective creams give the body time to restore the integrity of the skin and protective functions almost in the form in which they existed long before the invention of artificial irritants. Thanks to their use, fluid loss from the surface of the skin is significantly reduced, harmful substances are not able to penetrate into deeper skin layers. Thus, the use of protective creams can help prevent many skin diseases. At the moment, protective creams are gaining popularity among an increasing number of practicing dermatologists.

Moisturizing and treating dry skin

In order to actually solve the problem of dry skin, the skin needs to provide sufficient hydration. Artificial moisture cannot penetrate deeper than the top layer of the skin. The only moisture that can get into the deepest layers of the skin is the natural fluid produced by the skin itself.

Protective creams help to keep this moisture inside, where it is needed most, to prevent it from evaporating from the outer layer of the damaged skin. Replenishing the natural protective layer of the skin, protective creams allow their own moisture and oils to independently repair damaged skin in the most natural way.

For cosmetics manufacturers, the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) has been developed, which is used to compile a list of ingredients. The safety of ingredients in cosmetics is handled by the American organization, Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) . The safety factor of cosmetics allows you to determine its safety. This factor determines the percentage of safe ingredients in the total number of ingredients that make up the cosmetic formula.

• GOST 31460-2012 . Cosmetic creams. General specifications

• Cream in cosmetics // Brief Encyclopedia of Household. - M .: State Scientific Publishing House "Great Soviet Encyclopedia", 1959.