Medici collar (also Medici collar, a la Medici collar [1] , a la Maria Stuart collar [2] ) [3] - a fan-shaped stand-up collar ( French collet monté ) [4] of thin fabric or lace , revealing in front [5 ] and the fringing neckline of a women's dress. Introduced into Western European fashion in the 1600s specifically for the demonstration of lace by the Queen of France, Maria Medici , in whose honor he received his name [6] .
The collar was made on a special wire frame wrapped in gauze [7] , and had various shapes: round in France, double semicircle in England. At the back of the head, it was left straight or bent, the front corners were bent or wide open, exposing the neck [6] . Often, such a collar was worn with a raf collar [4] .
The Medici collar in the middle of the 17th century with the advent of the fashion for large wigs was replaced by a large turn-down “musketeer” (or Swedish) white collar [8] [9] .
After the French Revolution and the Directory, the smaller Medici collar returned to women's evening and formal dresses of the 19th century [10] . Such a collar received the name of Cherusque ( French chérusque ) [11] [12] from the name of the ancient Germanic Cherusci tribe ( lat. Cherusci ), who lived in the territory of Weser , which was transferred to Napoleon by agreement of the Rhine Union .
Queen Elizabeth of Bohemia with a reticcella collar (1613)
Rubens - Anna of Austria (1622-1625)
Vigee Lebrun - Princess Louise of Prussia (1801). Cherusa Collar
V. A. Tropinin "Portrait of N.I. Chernysheva ”(1816-1818)
Carolus-Durand "Portrait of Madame Georges Petit" (1879)
Maurice Stift "The Noble Lady" (1905)
Notes
- ↑ M.N. Mertsalova. Costume of different times and peoples. - JSC "Fashion Academy", 2001. - S. 174. - 584 p.
- ↑ Slezina T.V., Khalyuzova S. Glossary of historical names for collars and accessories. - EdwART, 2011.
- ↑ Rudolf Köster. Eigennamen im deutschen Wortschatz: ein Lexikon. - Walter de Gruyter, 2003. - S. [116] (stb. 1). - 224 p. - ISBN 9783110177022 .
- ↑ 1 2 Doreen Yarwood. European costume: 4000 years of fashion. - Larousse, 1975 .-- S. 124. - 328 p. - ISBN 9780883320297 .
- ↑ M.I. Koziakova. Story. The culture. Daily routine. - M .: Consent, 2016 .-- 464 p. - ISBN 9785868841477 .
- ↑ 1 2 Bella Shapiro. The history of lace as a cultural text . - New Literary Review, 2018 .-- 1348 p. - ISBN 9785444810248 .
- ↑ K.V. Gradova, E.A. Gutina. Theatrical costume: Men's costume. - All-Russian Theater Society, 1987. - P. 224. - 360 p.
- ↑ Orlenko, L.V. Terminological Dictionary of Clothing . - M .: Legprobyzdat, 1996. - ISBN 5708807202 .
- ↑ Culture and life . - 1988. - S. 47. - 352 p.
- ↑ C. Willett Cunnington. English Women's Clothing in the Nineteenth Century: A Comprehensive Guide with 1,117 Illustrations. - Courier Corporation, 2013 .-- S. 350, 405. - 578 p. - ISBN 9780486319636 .
- ↑ Charles Otto Zieseniss, Katell Le Bourhis, Metropolitan Museum of Art (New York NY). The Age of Napoleon: Costume from Revolution to Empire, 1789-1815. - Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1989 .-- S. 248. - 286 p. - ISBN 9780870995712 .
- ↑ Éditions Larousse. Définitions: chérusque - Dictionnaire de français Larousse (French) . www.larousse.fr. Date of treatment September 1, 2019.