Dress

Since ancient times, man sought out of shame and practical considerations to cover up nudity. Dress making was mainly the prerogative of women who, through their labor, actively participated in the development of the dress form.

The dress evolved from ancient cloaks and wraps as a result of the evolution of the cut, the improvement of materials and an increase in the variety of clothes.

Sexuality has a significant impact on the fashion and cut of dresses, as well as on their perception by a person. When modeling a suit, the features of the figure are taken into account, the alternation of closed and open parts of the body is traced. To a large extent, the characteristics of culture and customs determine the measure of shame. According to legend, the ancient Indian law promised death to someone who dared to wear a dress of the opposite sex ^[1] .

The oldest known dress today ( English Tarkhan dress ) aged 5000 years old was found in Egyptian Tarkhan in 1913 ^{[2] [3]} .

Ancient World

The ancient world is characterized by uniformity and constancy of clothing. In Egyptian monuments, the figure of a person is geometrically stylized along with clothing. Women's dress Kalasiris is a tight-fitting “case”, which suggests that they were knitted. A narrow skirt with its length reached the middle of the calf and did not allow to walk wide. Two wide straps were tied on the shoulders, leaving the chest naked. The fabrics were chosen bright and textured in contrast to the even tone of the skin. White color was favorite ^[1] .

The Cretan dress was a long colorful skirt with frills and a small apron, a vest with open chest.

Middle Ages

In the Middle Ages, clothes were worth a fortune, decorated with precious stones and inherited ^[1] .

Since the 13th century, luxurious silk fabrics have appeared in Italy, which stood on cross trade routes, and velvet is made in Milan ^[1] .

By the middle of the 15th century, a woman’s dress had found an extremely high waistline, an acute-angled (thinning figure) deep neckline trimmed with a wide collar , narrow long sleeves and an asymmetrically draped skirt (only on the left side), which, expanding from bottom to bottom, turned into a long train.

16th Century

In the Renaissance, the figure was corrected by a corset that lifted the lacing of the chest. At the same time, strict Spanish fashion prohibited the neckline. Black became prevailing, crinoline appeared ^[1] . In England, Queen Elizabeth I defined fashion. Black embroidery was very popular in decorating dresses ^[4] .

Russian women's dress in the XVI-XVII centuries determined the position of women in society or in the family ^[5] .

XVII century

The trendsetter during this period was Holland - the center of textile production. In Spain and Portugal, stomaki wore, while in France and England dresses were more adapted to the shape of the body. The upper skirt was shortened to demonstrate a lower contrasting texture; the cutout has become deeper. Thanks to circumnavigations, images on the fabrics of exotic animals and plants come into fashion. Mantova gained popularity ^[4] . Corsets strengthened their value by the 1680s ^[6] .

18th century

In the Baroque era, wide cuts began to be worn again, which increased even more by the Rococo period ^[1] . There were three types of dresses: a dress in French, a dress in English, and a dress in Polish.

XIX century

At the beginning of the century after the French Revolution, with the advent of the Empire , transparent fabrics became popular among fashionistas ^[1] . In appearance, the dresses resembled shirts and had so-called. Empire-style silhouette , created with an eye to the ancient ashes and tunics . They were sewn with a high waist, under the chest they were intercepted by a belt.

With the development of industrialization, clothing was ranked as a product and became more widespread in connection with the cheapening of production. The French Revolution abolished the laws of the shop, which served to create large-scale serial production ^[1] .

Since the 1830s, the silhouette and proportions of women's dresses have changed dramatically. The main line becomes horizontal: the waist tightly tightened with a corset (shot glass) contrasts with wide sleeves - a gigot and a short fluffy skirt. Commoners in the same manner sew dresses from cheaper fabrics, complemented by a cap, an apron, and a scarf ^[7] .

In the 1850s, a female skirt skirt reigned again. Krinolin became a symbol of the Victorian era , created a distance, demonstrated Puritan chastity, false modesty. In shape, the crinoline had a ramp elongated at the back with a sheer front. The bodice fitted the figure, the sleeves remained narrow or expanded downward ( pagol ), there were many kinds of ornaments with frills, lace, embellishments, embroidery, textures. The silhouette was a triangle with a very wide base ^[7] .

The crinoline was replaced in the 1870-1880s by a tournament that gave the figure a profile silhouette. Also, the effect of the tournament was created by the abundant drapery of the skirt, which took the whole mass of decorative elements of the dress. A narrow corset created an S-shape, exaggerating a female figure and causing a lot of ridicule and caricatures. The bodice is usually closed; the neckline of the evening dress receives a new form of elongated square trimmed with ruffles ^[7] .

XX century

At the beginning of the century, the dress is divided into a skirt and blouse, attaching a men's jacket (English suit). The middle layers of society immediately adopted this fashionable trend, preferring practicality to conventions ^[7] . Art Nouveau clothing is flowing, S-shaped, with a high closed collar and a standing collar that lengthens the neck. Blouses and dresses were closed tightly in the front and at the beginning of the 20th century had a lap in front - a “pigeon breast” above a narrow waist, beveled forward. The skirt fitted the hips and extended downward, sometimes ending in a train or train, even in day dresses. Ball gowns traditionally retain an open neckline, often on thin straps. Embroidery with silk and beads is popular ^[7] . By the end of the decade, the most fashionable skirts were shortened to the ankles . The silhouette as a whole has become more direct, starting a trend that lasted immediately until the First World War .

The massive employment of women and the emancipation of the 20th century influenced women's dress. Women discarded the romantic, but uncomfortable attributes in everyday life (in particular, the corset ) and adopted the details of men's clothing. Exposing the legs at the beginning of the 20th century was a cardinal change, which eventually led to increasing nakedness ^[1] .

21st Century

Clothing created by mass production is available to everyone. Individuality is manifested in the choice of combinations of clothing components. The emphasized individuality is manifested in handmade objects and special materials ^[1] .

There is a huge variety of dresses: sewn or crocheted, manufactured in the factory. Differ:

• Clothing history
• Hem