Scott, Jeremy

Jeremy Scott was born in 1975 in Kansas , Missouri. Like most children from Kansas, he spent part of his childhood on a farm. Already in childhood, Jeremy "fell ill" with the fashion world. Already at the age of 14, he began to study French, and at night attended Japanese language courses, as he understood the need for communication in various cultural environments in order to become a designer. In high school, he constantly drew sketches of clothes in his notebooks, and also experimented with his own style, because of which he suffered insults and grins from classmates. He was inspired by haute couture, in particular by designers such as Jean-Paul Gaultier , Martin Margiela and Franco Moskino .

In 1992, Scott moved to New York to study fashion design at the Pratt Institute , one of the renowned design institutes. During his studies, Scott completed an internship at the New York office of Aeffe, the company that owns Moschino ^[3] .

Contrary to the stories of most famous designers, the fashion industry has not opened its doors to Jeremy after graduating in 1996. He moves to Paris in search of work and at first agrees to work for food and occasionally sleeps in the metro or municipal shelters. He arranges a promoter in a nightclub and organizes parties there. Having no job offers from fashion houses, Jeremy opens his own brand ^{[4] [5]} .

In 1997, the brand Jeremy Scott debuted with its own collection in a simple bar near the Bastille. His show was based on the book of J.J. Ballard and the film by David Cronenberg , most of the material for the collection was from recycled hospital gowns. In a subsequent show, he used pieces of cloth from the Porte de Clignancourt flea market that looked like black trash bags.

Later, the collection was exhibited in the influential Parisian Colette store, which since then began to regularly collaborate with the designer.

His third collection, which was based on white, became a real hit. She receives a number of awards and attracts Mario Testino, editor of the French Vogue, and stylist Isabella Blow, who accepted Scott as a protege ^[6] . The show of this collection was the first appearance on the catwalk of the future supermodel Devon Aoki , who at that time was only 13 years old ^[7] . (Twenty years later, the couple will again collaborate on Scott's Fall / Winter 2016 campaign. ^[8] .) Björk was one of the first to wear a dress from his new collection for her world tour. Scott provided her with costumes for several tours.

In the same year, Scott staged a show about nostalgia and longing for the 1980s (he used sables, shoulder pads, big curls), maybe he was the first designer to revive fashion in the eighties. Custom model heels for the show were designed by Christian Louboutin . Contrary to the scarce coverage of such shows, for Jeremy Scott, Vogue made an exception. Scott himself considers the "golden show" the most difficult moment in his career ^[9] .

To create the 1998 spring-summer collection, entitled “Duty Free Glamor,” Scott was inspired by stewardesses and embroidered khaki jackets. Evaluating the new collection, Karl Lagerfeld said that Scott was the only person working in fashion who could lead the Chanel fashion house after he left ^[10] .

In 2001, Scott shocked the fashion community with the decision to move from Paris to Los Angeles . This was regarded as an amazing step, since Los Angeles was not close to the capital of fashion then ^[11] .

Jeremy Scott was desperate to strengthen his influence in the global fashion market, especially in Asia, where his flirting with provocations during the shows went especially well. But for the next step he lacked “weight”. Industry giants still considered him a niche designer without serious commercial potential that could win the mass market.

The first small step in the mass market Jeremy Scott makes in 2006, when he signs an agreement to create a limited collection for the French brand of bags and accessories Longchamp. And in this case, it was not a full collection, but gifts for guests of the show at Fashion Week.

The acquaintance of Jeremy Scott with Adidas took place in 2002 and was limited to the manufacture of a limited collection of Adidas Forum model shoes, in the amount of 100 pcs. A recognizable print from one of Scott's collections was used on the shoes. In 2013, Scott will return to this experience by creating the Money Wings model ^[12] .

However, his most famous collaboration with Adidas happened in 2008, when Adidas Original launched a collection of Scott's shoes and clothes, which included JS Wings (winged high tops) and JS Bears (furry sneakers with teddy bear heads) ^[13] . With an active promotion campaign from famous rap artists such as Lil Wayne, Scott's shoes got him a massive appeal. These sneakers are considered “one of the most attractive sneakers you've ever seen,” making them “the undisputed imprint on the shoe market” ^{[14] [15]} . Over the years, his iconic wings have been adorned with many different models of Adidas clothing and shoes. He also actively used them as his own “autograph” when working with other clients, including cars and prams ^{[16] [17] [18]} .

Scott starred in the 2012 Adidas ad campaign with Nicky Minaj, Sky Ferreira and 2NE1 ^[19] . Madonna dancers at the break of the 2012 Super Bowl show wore Jeremy Scott tracksuits for Adidas Original ^[20] .

Not without scandals. Conservative German "bosses" refused to launch a new shoe model in June 2012, deciding that JS Roundhouse Mids would not be available after the public on the Internet condemned the design for their bright yellow handcuffs, which some thought reminded many of the "shackles ”, Alluding to slavery ^[21] . Scott denied that the shoes had anything to do with slavery, saying it was a reference to the children's toy My Favorite Monster ^[22] .

For his Fall / Winter 2012 collection, Scott used nostalgia for the 1990s with references to the first computers and video games. Actively used images such as a printed cursor in a glove and Mac screenshots of the 90s ^[23] .

Jeremy Scott introduced his first Adidas fragrance on February 1, 2015 in a glass copy of his winged Adidas sneakers. ^[24] In the 2016 film Suicide Squad , the character Harley Quinn wears high heels from the limited collection of Jeremy Scott and Adidas 2014 ^[25] .

In October 2013, Scott became the creative director of Moschino. He rejected several other offers from famous fashion houses, and chose the Italian label because he had the same rebellious approach as the founder of the house, Franco Moskino, who viewed fashion as a form of protest and inspired Jeremy in his youth ^[26] .

Jeremy Scott carefully prepared his first collection for Moschino in 2014. He understood that his first step was to curtsy toward the founder of the house. He retold Franco Moskino's fashionable jokes (garbage bags, witty slogans, beekeeper hats) through the eyes of an American ( McDonald's bags, popcorn dresses, ball gowns, SpongeBob SquarePants fur coats) ^{[27] [28]} . All of Jeremy's references to the McDonald's image became the cause of lawsuits in the fashion house and the fast food chain. In the same year, another iconic image was born - the first Moschino fragrance was named Moschino Toy. The bottle literally looked like a teddy bear with a spray nozzle under his head. As a result, this bear will decorate various elements of Moschino adult and children's collections ^[29] .

It is Scott who is credited with reviving the Moschino brand, increasing its sales and turning it into a cultural phenomenon. Jeremy Scott instilled a love of the brand with a youth and subcultural audience, expanding the scope of interests of the Italian fashion house.

In 2011, Jeremy Scott collaborated with Swatch , creating three watch models for them, in the design of which he was guided by the “return of Swatch to its super-fun roots of the eighties” with the use of pop aesthetics and Scott's signature wings in the design. ^[30] .

An important part of Scott's work was the creation of costumes for performances and videos of such show business celebrities as Beyoncé, Rihanna, Lady Gaga and Nicki Minaj, Katy Perry, Miley Cyrus. For Jeremy Scott, it was important to collaborate with artists who, through their work, made a significant contribution to pop culture ^[31] .

In January 2015, Scott created costumes for show appearances during the Super Bowl break for pop star Katy Perry. She appeared on the cover of Rolling Stone in a bust of this collection, advertising her show. Catti and Jeremy began to collaborate since 2005, when the singer was not yet so famous ^[32] .