Andrew John Kauffman II ( born Andrew John Kauffman ; November 27, 1920 , Philadelphia - December 24, 2002 , Washington ) is an American climber , the first climber to Hidden Peak (8080 m) - the eleventh highest eight-thousander of the world (1958). A member of the American Alpclub (AAC) since 1941 (in 1983-1986 he was a member of the board of directors, and in 1988 served as vice president), , honorary member of the , ( India ), as well as the . Laureate of the founder) of AAC (1988) [1] [2] [3] .
| Andrew Kaufman | |
|---|---|
| English Andrew John Kauffman II | |
| Date of Birth | November 27, 1920 |
| Place of Birth | Philadelphia |
| Date of death | December 24, 2002 (82 years old) |
| A place of death | Washington |
| Citizenship |  USA |
| Occupation | mountain climber , civil servant |
| Father | Reginald Wright Kaufman |
| Mother | Ruth Kaufman (Hemmit) |
| Spouse | Elizabeth Conant (1943-1959), Daphne Innis (Daphne S. Ennis) (1977-) |
| Awards and prizes | Angelo Heilprin Citation Award (1988) |
Content
- 1 Brief biography
- 2 Climbing career
- 2.1 Gasherbrum I
- 3 notes
Short Biography
Born in Philadelphia in the family of Reginald Wright Kaufman - a writer, journalist, - the son of the financier Andrew John Kaufman I (director of ), and his wife Ruth (nee Hemmit) [4] [5] . Parents were successful correspondents of leading American publications both at home and abroad. My father worked, in particular, at and The Saturday Evening Post , the family spent a long time in Switzerland ( Geneva ), where Kaufman Sr. became the founder of the New York Herald Tribune , and Kaufman Jr. while studying in the local school perfectly learned French. The family later moved to Washington, where his father worked as the editor of The Washington Post . Andrew attended in Concord , New Hampshire , and graduated from Harvard in 1943 [6] [7] .
Immediately after graduation, he worked at the US Department of State for various more than 20 years, focusing mainly on analyzing France ’s domestic policy on a wide range of issues, as well as preparing analysts for Turkey , India , Honduras and US-Soviet relations . He worked for three years at the US Consulate in Calcutta . After retiring, he served on the Board of Directors of Video Communications, Springfield . Together with is a co-author of the books “K2: The 1939 Tragedy” (from the English - “K2: The Tragedy of 1939”) and “The Guiding Spirit” (from the English - “Soulful Impulse”). Died of Parkinson's disease on December 24, 2002 at Villa Rosa Nursing Home in Mitchellville. The memorial service took place on January 11, 2003 in St. Nicholas Cathedral (Washington) [2] [3] [8] .
Andrew was twice married. With his first wife - Elizabeth "Betty" Conent, he lived for 16 years (1943-1959). Kaufman married Daphne Innis a second time in 1977. There were no children in marriage [2] [3] .
Climbing career
Climbing was Andrew's hobby. While studying at Harvard University, he headed his . Among his most significant achievements are the second ascent to the peak of St. Elijah in Alaska (1946) [9] , as well as a number of first ascents in the Rocky Mountains and the Andes , among which the first to the peak of Serra IV in the Coastal Range (1954) together with , as well as to Pukayra North ( Eng. North Pucahira ) a year later. The climax of his climbing career was the first ascent to the eleventh highest eight-thousander of the world Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) (expedition leader ) [7] .
Gasherbrum I
By 1958, only three unconquered eight-thousanders remained on the planet: Gasherbrum I, Shishabangma and Dhaulagiri . After the Italians climbed K2 in 1954, the peak that the Americans stormed from 1938 and considered "their own", they still had a chance to leave their mark in the history of conquering the highest mountains of the Earth. In 1958, they received permission from the Pakistani authorities to climb Hidden Peak (Hasherbrum I). The expedition, organized by the American Alpclub, was led by Nicholas Clinch, and in addition to Kaufman, it included Richard Irwin, Thomas McCormack, Thomas Nevison, Pete Schöning , Gilbert Roberts, Robert Swift and Taz Rivzi [10] [11] [12] .
On June 4, the expedition began work on the mountain. The route along the southeast ridge, investigated in 1934 by the Gunther Direnfurt expedition, in which the Americans organized five high-altitude camps for a month, was chosen as the most optimal. By June 28, camp III was set up and fully equipped at 6700, on the 29th, camp IV, and on July 4 at altitude 7100 m (instead of the planned 7500 m), the last camp V. By this time, all high-altitude porters, as well as three main group members - McCormack, Irwin and Roberts. Weakened after a long stay in Camp IV due to bad weather after reaching Camp V, Clinch, Swift and Nevison went down. In the words of Direnfurt: "Now they (Schöning and Kaufmann) have shoulder all responsibility for the success of the expedition" [10] [11] .
On the night of July 5, climbers slept through using oxygen, the daily supply of which was “regular” in each of the high-altitude camps. At five in the morning, Kaufman and Schöning, having only two oxygen tanks with them, went to storm the summit, from which they were separated by almost 1000 meters in height and at least 4000 meters in horizontal. Since the path was not technically complicated, but ran along an extremely snowy terrain, they used sheets of plywood from food boxes sawn under cats as snowshoes. 10 hours after the exit (at 15:00 local time), Schöning and Kaufman reached the summit, and another six hours later were able to safely go down [10] [11] .
Notes
- ↑ Angelo Heilprin Citation Award Winners . AAJ. Date of appeal March 25, 2019.
- ↑ 1 2 3 Andrew John Kauffman . World Biographical Encyclopedia, Inc .. Date accessed March 24, 2019.
- ↑ 1 2 3 Barnes, Bart. Leading Mountain Climber Andrew J. Kauffman II . The Washington Post (January 3, 2003). Date of treatment March 24, 2019.
- ↑ Reginald Wright Kauffman . Columbia Historic Preservation Society. Date of appeal March 25, 2019.
- ↑ Kauffman, Reginald Wright, 1877-1959 . SNAC Date of appeal March 25, 2019.
- ↑ Berry, John M. Andrew Kauffman, Still on Top of the World . Washington Post (Monday, November 15, 1999). Date of treatment March 27, 2019.
- ↑ 1 2 Putnam, William. Andrew John Kauffman II, 1920–2002 // The American Alpine Journal. - 2003. - S. 478-479 .
- ↑ Paid Notice: Deaths KAUFFMAN, ANDREW JOHN II , The New York Times (JAN. 6, 2003). Date of treatment March 24, 2019.
- ↑ Miller, Maynard Malcolm. Yahtsétesha // AAJ. - 1947. - S. 257-268 .
- ↑ 1 2 3 Schoening, Peter K. Ascent of Hidden Peak // AAJ. - 1959. - S. 165-172 .
- ↑ 1 2 3 Direnfurt, Gunther Oscar. Karakoram // The Third Pole. - Thought, 1970 .-- 304 p.
- ↑ Happy Anniversary, Gasherbrum I First Ascent! . The American Alpine Club (July 5, 2018). Date of treatment March 30, 2019.