Thirteen desserts

One of the traditions of the Christmas Eve in Provence is a gala dinner - the so-called gros souper . An important role in it is played by numerical symbolism: for example, seven dishes are usually served, in memory of the seven sorrows of the Virgin ^[1] . There are thirteen desserts - this number symbolizes Christ and his twelve apostles gathered at the table during the Last Supper ^[2] . Desserts allow you to pass the time in anticipation of the Christmas Mass ^[1] ; then they remain on the table for another three days, and, according to tradition, all members of the family should taste each of them ^[3] .

An abundance of desserts on the Provencal Christmas table has been observed since at least the 18th century, but the number 13 is not mentioned in ancient sources. The first mention of it refers only to the 1920s ^[4] . Apparently, the key role in the creation and popularization of tradition was played by felibers : members of the literary movement who dreamed of reviving the language and culture of Provence. One of them, , wrote in the Christmas issue of La Pignato newspaper that there should be thirteen desserts on the Christmas table; he first compiled a list of them, which included 25 possible options ^[4] . By the 1930s, tradition had become entrenched; at the same time, the expression “thirteen desserts” (before that they were simply called calenos ) came into use.

Nowadays, thirteen desserts are one of the culinary symbols of Provence. As a rule, they are placed on three napkins, surrounded by three candles - the number three symbolizes the Holy Trinity ^[3] . In addition, three saucers are placed on the table with sprouted wheat sown in advance on December 4, the day of St. Barbara .

Christmas desserts may vary by location; in total, there are about 55 options ^[1] . These include fruits (dried and fresh), nuts, sweet pastries and sweets ^{[5] [2]} . Repeated attempts have been made to establish a “canonical” list of thirteen desserts. According to the , it should include apples, pears, green melon, grapes, mountain ash, white nougat, black nougat, walnuts, almonds, hazelnuts, dried dates, raisins and pompe à l'huile (type of muffin ) Aix-en-Provence proposed its own list in 1998: it also includes dates, grapes, melon, black and white nougat, pompe à l'huile ; nuts and raisins are combined under the general name “four beggars” (see below); instead of mountain ash, apples and pears, oranges or tangerines and quince marmalade appear ^[1] . However, practice shows that the majority of Provence residents do not strictly adhere to these lists ^[4] .

Fruits and Nuts

Fruits have always occupied a special place among thirteen desserts. As a rule, local fruits were used for the Christmas table, which the family stocked for the winter and stored in the basement or in the attic. It could be apples , pears , melons , grapes , figs . However, some believed that it was not appropriate to put ordinary, everyday products on the Christmas table, and replaced the above with oranges and dates ^[4] (dates symbolized Christ who came from the East ^[3] ). Currently, there are two opposing opinions: adherents of traditions believe that exotic fruits (with the exception of oranges and dates) are inappropriate on the Christmas table; others suggest that any fruit can be used, including kiwi , mango and pineapple ^[4] . Fruits may also be present on the table in the form of jam or marmalade; quince marmalade is considered traditional.

An indispensable component of thirteen desserts are the so-called " four beggars " ( French quatre mendiants or ox. Pachichòis ) - fruits and nuts, symbolizing the four mendicant monastic orders . The color of each of them is associated with the color of the cassock of the monks of the corresponding order: nuts (walnuts or forest) symbolize the Augustinians ; dried figs - Franciscans ; almonds - Carmelites ; light raisins - Dominicans ^[6] . Nowadays, the word “ mendiant ” also refers to a confectionery product - a chocolate disk decorated with appropriate ingredients.

In addition, fruits and nuts are combined in a dessert called "nougat capuchin " ( French nougat du capucin ) or "poor nougat" ( French nougat du pauvre ). It is a fig stuffed with walnuts or almonds ^[4] .

Baking

An obligatory component of thirteen desserts is the so-called “pompe à l'huile” (literally, “oil pump”). It is baked from wheat flour with the addition of olive oil; perhaps its name is explained by the ability of flour to absorb oil. In addition, pompe à l'huile is aromatic with orange blossom . According to tradition, it should not be cut, but broken by hands, just as Christ broke the bread during the Last Supper ^[7] . Usually it is eaten at the end of a meal, dipped in wine.

Other types of baking can vary: donuts , apple fritters, cookies like brushwood , pine nuts pies and so-called oreillettes are popular ^{[2] [4]} . The latter are crispy cookies that are baked in butter and sprinkled with powdered sugar ^[8] . In Grignan, it is customary to bake a special sweet pie with spinach ^[4] .

Confectionery

Desserts required at the Christmas table include nougat . Nougat is a traditional Provencal delicacy, known since the 10th century. Since the 18th century, it has been one of the most popular Christmas sweets in Provence ^[9] . Usually its two varieties are served - white and black - which symbolize repentant sinners ^[3] .

In Aix-en-Provence, among thirteen desserts, calissones are certainly present - sweets that have long been produced in this city ^[10] . They include almonds, candied melon and orange blossom ^[11] .

In addition, among thirteen desserts may be chocolate, candies, dragees and other sweets ^[4] .

• Brigitte Poli. Les 13 desserts provençaux: une coutume en mouvement. - Librairie contemporaine, 2003 .-- 61 p. - ISBN 2-905405-24-4 .
• Brigitte Brégeon-Poli. “Va pour treize!” La “tradition” des desserts de Noël en Provence (French) // Terrain. Anthropologie & sciences humaines. - 1995. - Livr. 24 . - P. 145-152 .
• René Husson, Philippe Galmiche. Les 13 desserts en Provence. - Fleurines éditions, 2010 .-- 191 p. - ISBN 2-905405-24-4 .

• Traditions de Noël en Provence (French) . Mairie d'Aix-en-Provence. Date of treatment November 24, 2017.
• Les 13 desserts, tradition calendale (French) . NotreProvence.fr . Date of treatment November 24, 2017.