Myshlyaev, Lev Vladimirovich

Born and spent his childhood in Vyazniki , the family lived on the street. Shkolnaya, d. 12. Mother Nadezhda Venediktovna studied in St. Petersburg, then worked as a teacher in Vyazniki, father Vladimir Vasilievich graduated from the Vyaznikovsky flax technical school, worked in different places. The younger Leo had two sisters: Faina and Olga, and brother Nikolai, all had a higher education ^[1] .

He studied at school number 1 named after A. M. Gorky. He loved mathematics and literature. From school, he was engaged in skiing, football, gymnastics, and was the city's boxing champion. During the war years he studied and worked. He graduated from school with a gold medal.

1944-1950 - Studying at MVTU named after N.E. Bauman .

1951-1955 - graduate school, defense of the dissertation.

For lecture propaganda among young people awarded the Certificate of Honor of the Komsomol Central Committee .

Since 1955 he lived in Ryazan and worked as a teacher at the Ryazan Radio Engineering Institute . Since 1960 - Associate Professor at the Department of Theoretical and Technical Mechanics ^[2] .

In 1961 he moved to Moscow , first worked at the MVTU named after N. E. Bauman , then at Stupino .

In 1951 he began to engage in mountaineering under the leadership of Anatoly Georgievich Ovchinnikov . In 1956 he was awarded the title " Master of Sports of the USSR " in mountaineering ^[3] (certificate dated November 26, 1956), in 1963 - ZMS ^[4] . He was a member of the USSR mountain climbing team, defended the Spartak society at intra-union competitions. As the leader of the group, he traversed the Dombay massif, Shkheldy , was the first ascent to the main Dombay along the northern wall, Chatyn by the fires of the northern wall ^[5] , to the peak of Free Spain, the peak of Free Korea .

• 1956 - Dombai-Ulgen Chief on the northern wall (5B class palace) (together with A. Ovchinnikov , V. Nikolaenko, Grigorenko).
• 1957 - attempt to pass the northwestern wall of Ushba .
• 1958 - Ushba Yuzhnaya in the Central Bastion of the Middle Rocky Belt of the northwest wall (5B grade), the Central Caucasus - 1st place ^[6] and gold medals of the USSR Mountain Climbing Championship in the class of technically difficult ascents (together with V. Nikolaenko, DSO "Petrel" ). The longest and steepest climb for that period was free climbing, the central bastion of the northwest wall was passed for the first time ^[5] , repeated in 1971 ^[7]
• 1959 - the peak of Free Spain, along the eastern wall (5B rd class ) (together with O. Kosmachev , DSO "Petrel" ).
• 1959 - Chatyn the Chief on the rhombus of the northern wall (by fireplaces) (6A class) - 1st place ^[6] and gold medals of the USSR Mountain Climbing Championship in the class of technically difficult climbs (together with O. Kosmachev and A Simonikom, DSO "Petrel" ). Climbing through fireplaces by free climbing in bad weather without hooks ^[8] . The route was completed for the first time ^[5] , repeated in 1970 ^[9]
• 1959 - Alps , Switzerland , two wall ascents (3B k.s. ).
• 1960 - Ushba Yuzhnaya on the left side of the southwestern wall, (6A class.) (Together with O. Kosmachev , DSO "Petrel" ). The route was completed for the first time ^[5] , repeated in 1984 ^[8]
• 1961 - Korona peak, 6th tower, along the northern wall (5B rd class) Tien Shan , Alatau , Kyrgyzstan , (together with A. Glukhovtsev, B. Kolosov, Y. Fomenko, DSO "Petrel" ) .
• 1961 - peak of Free Korea along the northern wall (5B class), Tien Shan , Alatau , Kyrgyzstan , - 1st place ^[6] and gold medals of the USSR Mountaineering Championship in the class of technically difficult ascents (together with A. Glukhovtsev, B. Kolosov, Y. Fomenko, DSO "Petrel" ). The route was completed for the first time, repeated in 1986 ^[10]
• 1961 - Ecrain peak and Aiguille du Midi peak, Western Alps , France (with A. Ovchinnikov ).
• 1962 - Talgar peak, western wall (Snesarev route), transit time was improved to 4 days ^[7] .
• 1962 - peak of the Revolution along the northeast wall (5B class), Central Pamir - 1st place ^[6] and gold medals of the USSR Mountain Climbing Championship in the class of high-altitude ascents (together with B. Baronov, V. Bozhukov , A. Glukhovtsev, L. Kiselev, S. Kuderin , B. Korshunov , Yu. Smirnov, DSO “Petrel” ). The route was completed for the first time, repeated in 1979 ^[7]

Tragically died July 14, 1963 in the city of Chatyn (Chatyn-Tau), the Central Caucasus . At the same time B. Kolosov, Yu. Melnikov, S. Kuderin , B. Baronov, Yu. Smirnov died.

A group of Myshlyaev, 5 deuces, made a training ascent along the route of B. Garf (5B class palace) in preparation for the USSR Mountain Climbing Championship . Upon reaching the ridge on the northeastern buttress, Chatyna's cornice collapsed ^[11] , dropping three mountaineers to the Chatynsky plateau ^[4] .

He was buried at the Nikolsky cemetery in Balashikha near Moscow ^[1] .

• 1963 - the sports committee canceled the USSR Mountain Climbing Championship in connection with the tragic death of the team of L. Myshlyaev ^[8] .
• 1968 - the successful ascent of the team of climbers of the MVTU sports club ( E. Myslovsky , V. Ivanov , A. Ovchinnikov , Glukhov) along the southwestern wall of the peak of Communism was dedicated to Lev Myshlyaev ^[12] .
• In Vyazniki, a station for young tourists (now the Center for Continuing Education for Children) has been conducting orienteering competitions since 1995 in memory of L. V. Myshlyaev ^[1] .
• Since 2006, a track and field athletics rally in memory ^{[8] [13] [14] [15] by} Lev Myshlyaev has been regularly held in Ryazan.
• In the Museum of MVTU named after N.E. Bauman, Myshlyaev is dedicated to the section of the exposition.
• In the city ​​of Vyazniki on October 16, 2001, the school museum “Honor and Remember” was opened ^[1] .
• In Georgia, a large section is devoted to L. Myshlyaev’s Museum of Mountaineering ^[1] .
• The Mountaineering Federation of Russia awards the Lev Myshlyaev Medal ^[8] . In 2005, P. Shabalin and I. Tukhvatullin were awarded this medal for the first time passing the northern wall of Khan-Tengri in a deuce.
• In the summer of 1996, the Ryazan sports group Vertical, under the leadership of the master of sports of Russia Oleg Kondrakov, installed a memorial plaque in Chatyn at the site of Myshlyaev’s death ^[16] .
• Myshlyaev’s name is the peak ^[17] (3910 m) in the Caucasus in the middle of the Kolotinsky “saw” of the Northeast branch of the Teplinsky group between the peaks of Ryazhsky in the north and Akritov in the south.

• Belopukhov A.K. I am a spinalist (a little slower than Andante) - M.: KINT, 1993.
• Burlakov Yu. B. Climber. The Story of Mikhail Khergiani // Hearts dedicated to sports. - M .: Physical education and sport, 1979.
• Nikolaenko V. A. At the Institute of Atomic Energy and in the mountains. - St. Petersburg: Climbers Club "St. Petersburg", 2013.
• Ovchinnikov A. G. Climbers MVTU im. N.E. Bauman. - M.: Publishing. MVTU, 1998.
• Rototaev P.S. To the heights. Chronicle of Soviet mountaineering. - M.: Physical education and sport, 1977.