Ingush costume

Judging by archaeological materials obtained from the funerary monuments of Mountain Ingushetia, the man’s medieval costume consisted of two clothes. A long woolen caftan, reaching to the knees, and wide trousers made of coarse woolen cloth were put on the lower (worn) clothes, soft gantry boots (leggings) were put on the legs, and a soft quilted hat was put on the head. In the burials of a later time, Circassians with ghazyrs and fur lamb hats (hats) are found. Kaftans and Circassians girded with one or two leather belts with iron and bronze buckles, thin belts were decorated with silver and bronze tips and plaques. Leather pouches with a flint, an armchair and a tinder were suspended from the belts. And always cold weapons: iron knives with wooden and bone handles, in leather sheath, as well as sabers and daggers ^[8] .

The costume of the Ingush by the second half of the 18th - beginning of the 19th centuries, judging by the data of written sources, practically did not differ from the costume of the neighboring mountain peoples. Julius von Klaprot at the beginning of the XIX century notes that the clothes of the Ingush are similar to the clothes of other Caucasians, but she, like their weapons, looks more elegant ^[3] . It consisted of a short "Chokha" ( Circassian ) with ghazyry, long pants, tight fitting at the bottom of the ankle, of dark brown loose cloth. On my feet are leather shoes without a strong sole, and on my head is a “sheep’s hat”. When riding, the Ingush put on long woolen socks above their knees, and are covered with a cloak that serves as reliable protection from rain and snow. For the same purpose, a cap is used - a peaked cloth cap that covers the face to the eyes and nose. An indispensable attribute of the Ingush clothing is a weapon: he always has a dagger on his belt, and with a full armament - a saber and a gun ^[4] .

Shoes consisted of morocco dudes, sometimes - shoes or boots, lined with iron brackets ^[9] .

Headdress

The Ingush used a colored quilted hat (sometimes with a tassel) as a headdress, less often a fur hat with a colored top.

In addition, another Ingush men's headdress “Eltar-kiy” had a specific shape - a tall, slightly expanding upward hat , a cap was thrown over it in inclement weather. The Ingush head had a small visor in front, cut at a right angle ^[9] .

Accessories

Some functional components of a man’s suit could also serve as jewelry, such as a belt ( Ingush. TIexkap ), gazyri ( Ingush. Bustamash ), watches ( Ingush. Sahat ), etc. Two types of men's belts were distinguished : leather with a metal set; from fabric or felt. In the second half of the XIX - beginning of XX centuries. the most common were belts in the form of a narrow leather belt. At one end, the belt had a buckle, into which the other end of the belt was pulled, equipped with a metal tip. The belt was tightened tightly at the waist, and a long tip was threaded into a movable cage. Such belts were worn daily, they were available to any highlander. Festive belts were decorated with numerous, often silver plaques and pendants of various shapes ^[9] .

The difference between Circassians and caftans with similar cuts, etc. of types of clothing is made up of pockets for gazyrs, which since the end of the 18th century They began to sew on the Circassian on both sides of the chest. Gazyrs (7-9 pieces each) were inserted into these pockets. Initially, they performed not so much a decorative as a practical function. In long narrow pockets, charges for flintlocks and pistols were stored, which were placed in special containers, cartridges with decorative covers, decorated with silver chased or cast tops, often with black ones. Covering almost the entire chest, ghazyri performed a protective function, covering the body from chopping blows with cold weapons ^[9] .

In the late medieval burials of Ingushetia, male rings of bronze were found, however, data on the existence of such jewelry in a later period are very scarce ^[9] .

Since the second half of the XIX century. A pocket watch has become a luxurious addition to the men's suit. The watch performed not only a practical function, but was also used as an expensive prestigious accessory. With the expansion of their production and cost reduction, mainly silver watches began to be used as a type of gift ^[9] .

According to materials cited, in particular, by E. I. Krupnov: ^[7]

“Women are wearing long shirt dresses with a shallow cut in the chest. The lower dress is with short sleeves from a rough white canvas. Often there is a third dress, sewn from a dense rough wool fabric of our own production. This dress also has long sleeves and a buttonhole cut on the chest. All upper dresses, especially silk, usually have bright colors: red, blue, green, orange. In addition to shirts and dresses, women had harem pants made of canvas or delicate material. The legs were shod in dudes or boots on soft soles of colored morocco.

The heads of Ingush women were decorated with massive flat copper or bronze and silver temporal eight-lobed rings. At the neck were low, consisting of a set of various beads: carnelian, glass and colored paste. Sometimes several bronze and silver rings and rings with colored glass eyes are put on the fingers. A sash made of silk or canvas was tied around her waist, to which iron scissors were tied, as well as handbags with colored silk threads, needles and thimbles, wooden combs and very rarely glass mirrors in a wooden frame ^[7] .

Headdress

The original female headdress was Kurkhars . He was an attribute of the ceremonial, weekend clothes of Ingush girls and worn during the holidays and "going out." The kurkharsa were made of red felt or thick cloth and consisted of high caps in the form of a ridge with a bent forward and forked end ("crest"). Kurkhars was known in the Caucasus only in Mountain Ingushetia. It was first mentioned in the 30s. XVII century in the article list of Russian ambassadors describing their route through the Ingush lands to Georgia ^[5] . Researchers consider the Kurkhars in historical and cultural interconnection with the female headdress of the ancient Phrygians , the so-called "Phrygian cap" ^[10] .

Hunter

Written sources have kept information about some features of professional clothing by the Ingush. For example, the clothes of a hunter ( Ingush. Charakh ) are described who wore dudes with morocco legs, rawhide pistons with woven belt soles; gunpowder was poured into gazyri, which was shut up by a round lead bullet wrapped in a greasy rag; an old dagger and a pouch from a bull bubble filled with shag were hung from the belt. A furry leather kitty with provisions was taken, consisting of sheep cheese and corn tortillas; a rope with a bundle of steel cats and a short tube ^{[9] was} closed by a belt.

Shepherd

A description of the shepherd’s clothes is also given: “He is dressed in a shirt, trousers and a camisole made of coarse home-made wool, a cloak of even coarser wool is worn over the camisole, fastened in front with a home-made wooden knitting needle. A sheepskin hat was put on his head, and rawhide leather boots stuffed with grass were put on his feet ” ^[9] .

Mowing

The materials of the Commission for the Study of the Upland Strip of the Terek Region for 1909 contain a message that "mowers mow either barefoot, or in chuvki with soles from a belt binding ...". Probably, we are talking here about rawhide shoes with a sole woven from belts worn by shepherds and hunters, since it did not slip on the mountain slopes ^[9] .

• Genko A. N. From the cultural past of the Ingush // Notes of the College of Orientalists at the Asian Museum of the USSR Academy of Sciences .. - L, 1930. - T. V. - S. 681-761.
• Krupnov E.I. Medieval Ingushetia. - M. , 1971.
• Travel to the Crimea and the Caucasus by Moritz von Engelhardt and Friedrich Parott, doctor of medicine // Ingushetia and Ingush / Maryam Yandieva. - Nazran - Moscow, 1999.
• Semenov L.P. Phrygian motifs in ancient Ingush culture // Bulletin of the Chechen-Ingush Research Institute of History, Language and Literature .. - Grozny, 1959. - T. 1. - P. 197-219.
• Julius von Klaprot. Travel to the Caucasus and Georgia undertaken in 1807 and 1808 / Extracts. Per. with him. B.D. Gazikov // Archive Bulletin of the GAS RI. Vol. II .. - Nazran, 2005.
• Gadzhiev V.G. Jacob Reinegs on Chechen-Ingushetia // Questions of political and economic development of Chechen-Ingushetia (XVIII - early XX centuries) .. - Grozny, 1986.

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