Yukhin, Ivan Vasilievich

Ivan Vasilievich Yukhin was born in 1905 in Chernigov . He graduated from the Moscow Institute of Physical Culture . His passion for mountaineering began in 1928 with the passage of the Klukhor pass ( 2781 m ) through the Main Caucasian Range . In 1930, Yukhin climbed the Eastern peak of Elbrus ( 5621 m ). In 1931, Yukhin, led by Alyosha Dzhaparidze with the Mohevites conductors Yagor Kazalikashvili and Niko Kirikashvili, made the first passage of a new route to Kazbek ( 5034 m ) along the ridge separating the Abano and Devdoraki glaciers ^{[1] [2]} .

In 1933, during the first alpiniade of the Red Army , during which he worked as an instructor, Yukhin climbed the Western peak of Elbrus ( 5642 m ). Starting from this time, Yukhin worked every year as an instructor and trainer in the CDKA mountain camps - at mountain climbing paths , sports camps, but at the same time continued to go on mountain climbing ^[1] .

In 1934, Yukhin took part in the alpine campaign of the Red Army commanders under the leadership of the People's Commissar of Justice of the RSFSR Nikolai Krylenko , during which his group managed to reach an altitude of 7000 m while climbing Lenin Peak . In 1936 he traversed Donguzorun ( 4454 m ) - Chatyn ( 4386 m ), in 1937 he climbed Ushba Severnaya ( 4690 m ), and in 1938 he took part in the Soviet expedition to the Tien Shan to the peak of the 20th anniversary of the Komsomol ( now the peak of Victory ) ^[3] . In 1940, Yukhin traversed Ushba from south to north and traverse the Dombay-Ulgen massif ^[1] .

In 1940, Yukhin was awarded the title of master of sports of mountaineering, and in 1942 the title of Honored Master of Sports of the USSR ^[3] . In August 1945, Yukhin and master of sports Vladislav Lubenets made the first ascent of a new route to the peak of Alibek-Bashi ( 3600 m ) from the Alikbek Glacier along the eastern ridge (c. 3B). In July 1946, Yukhin led the first passage of a new route to the eastern and nodal peaks of Amanauz ( 3757 m , c. 4B). They also made the first traverse of the Amanauz massif from southeast to west ( c. 4B) ^[4] .

In 1947, a group of army climbers composed of A. Veselov, V. Kolomensky and B. Korndorf, led by Yukhin, made the first traverse of the Tikhtengen massif ( 4611 m ) in Svaneti from east to west ( c. 4B). This route was covered as part of a large-scale anniversary traverse of the Main Caucasian Range from Elbrus to Kazbek, dedicated to the thirtieth anniversary of the October Revolution of 1917 . The event was attended by 30 teams, each of which passed its own separate section of the route ^{[1] [5] [6] [7]} .

From 1938 to 1960, Yukhin was a member of the presidium of the All-Union Federation of Mountaineering, and in 1941-1946 he served as deputy chairman ^[1] . In 1940, Yukhin was an inspector of the All-Union Committee for Mountaineering, in 1941 - the head of the educational section of the collection of the Red Army command staff. During the Great Patriotic War, Yukhin first worked as an inspector for mining training of the NPO of the USSR (1941-1942), and in 1943-1946 he was an inspector for mining training of Vsevobuch . In 1945, Yukhin became the Commissioner of the All-Union Committee, in 1947 - the head of the mountaineers ’gathering of the Armed Forces ^[8] .

He was awarded 16 government awards, including the Order of the Red Star , medals " For Combat Merit ", " For Impeccable Service in the Armed Forces of the USSR ", " For the Victory over Germany ". Over his life, he wrote more than 10 books and a number of articles on mountaineering training, including military, which were published in periodicals. His name is given to a peak with a height of 5075 m in the Zaalaysky ridge in the Pamirs ^{[1] [3]} .

Yukhin was married to Ekaterina Efimovna Yukhina (1904-1982), who was honorary chairman of the Mountaineering Federation of the RSFSR ^[9] . Yukhin died in 1990 in Moscow ^[1] .

Books

• P.S. Rototaev , I.V. Yukhin. Mountaineering. - M .: Physical education and sport, 1947. - 136 p.
• I.V. Yukhin. Mountain climbing in the USSR. - M .: Physical education and sport, 1946.
• I.V. Yukhin. Mountaineering. Program for sports sections. - M .: Physical education and sport, 1939. - 119 p.
• I.V. Yukhin. Gymnastics before classes at school. - M .: Uchpedgiz, 1946.
• I.V. Yukhin. Get ready for mountain hiking. - M .: Young Guard, 1941.
• I.V. Yukhin. Climber training. - M .: Physical education and sport, 1969. - 112 p.
• I.V. Yukhin. Overcoming mountain obstacles. - M .: Military Publishing House, 1960.
• I.V. Yukhin. Be able to overcome mountain obstacles: A reminder of the mountain shooter. - M .: Military. Publishing House, 1944.
• I.V. Yukhin. Climber's physical training. - M .: Physical education and sport, 1940.

Articles

• V.I. Ratsek , I.V. Yukhin. In the area of ​​Victory Peak // Collection “The Conquered Peaks of 1953”. - M .: GIGL, 1954. - S. 57-68 .
• I.V. Yukhin. 12 climbers at the peak of Lenin // Collection “The Conquered Peaks of 1951”. - M .: GIGL, 1951. - S. 182-192 .
• I.V. Yukhin. Traverse of the Tikhtengen Massif // Collection “The Conquered Peaks of 1948”. - M .: OGIZ, GIGL, 1948. - S. 86-100 .