Racek, Vladimir Iosifovich

Before and during the war

Vladimir Iosifovich Racek was bornAugust 23, 1918 in the city of Syzran, Simbirsk province. Vladimir's father, Josef Racek, a Czech by birth, worked as a gardener for Count Bobrinsky, at the invitation of whom he moved from the Czech Republic to the Russian Empire. Here, Yosef got married. Racek had an older brother, Yuri. In 1931, their family moved to live in Kyrgyzstan . Racek's hobby for the mountains began in 1932, when his father took him with him to collect medicinal herbs. In 1935, Racek worked in the exploration party in the Talas and Ferghana Alatau, which was organized by the Frunze regional committee of the Komsomol. In this party, he made his first mountain trip with a length of about 700 kilometers. In the fall of 1936, he graduated from the school of mountaineering instructors of the NKVD GUPVO in Teskey-Ala-Too under the guidance of Mikhail Pogrebetskoy, Honored Master of Sports of the USSR ^{[2] [3]} . At the end of September 1936, Racek and several other participants in the school of mountaineering instructors took part in rescue operations in the Tien Shan. After climbing Khan-Tengri, the group of climbers fell into bad weather, as a result of which its members suffered severe frostbite and damage (the group included brothers Evgeny and Vitaly Abalakov, as well as Leonid Gutman , Mikhail Dadiomov and ). The group managed to reach the Inylchek glacier, from where they managed to give a distress signal. As a result of the rescue operations, four of the five members of the expedition were rescued (Lorenz Saladin died before the rescuers arrived). For active participation in the operation, all its members, including Racek, were awarded with Honorary Diplomas of the Komsomol of Kyrgyzstan ^{[1] [4] [5]} .

On June 16, 1937, Racek made his first independent ascent, climbing the peak of the Communist Party of Kyrgyzstan (now Karauldy, 4,500 m , c. 2A ^[6] ) at the head of a group of Kyrgyz climbers of 12 people. On July 17 of the same year, he made his first ascent of Manas peak ( 4370 m , c. 2A ^[6] ) and on August 3 to the ( 5281 m , c. 4B ^[6] ) together with Moscow climbers Nikolai Popov and Grigory Beloglazov and local climber Kasymaly Baygazinov ^[2] . Then, Racek, Popov and Beloglazov joined the expedition led by August Lethavet , whose main task was to climb the peak of the Stalin Constitution (subsequently the peak of the Soviet Constitution, now the , 5284 m ) and Karpinsky peak ( 5100 m ) in the Kuilyutau ridge ^{[ 7]} . As part of this expedition, the first ascents to along the southwestern ridge ( 5697 m , c. 5A ^[6] ) on August 30, and at the peak of the Stalin Constitution along the northern ridge (September 7, c. 2A ^[6] ). Racek took part in both ascents. Karpinsky peak was conquered in parallel with the storming of the peak of the Stalin Constitution by other members of the expedition ^[8] . Returning from the expedition, Racek stayed in Karakol , where he conducted a training course on the badge " Climber of the USSR " among local athletes, preparing 44 new climbers ^[1] .

After the notable successes of 1937, Racek became an instructor of the Republican Committee of Physical Culture and Sports, and then headed the Kyrgyz Mountaineering and Tourism Club ^[3] . He was fully responsible for all the organizational and methodological work on the preparation of climbers in Kyrgyzstan, while remaining an active participant in various sports climbing and hiking. In January 1938, as the leader of the group, he made the first winter ascent to Manas peak. Then he took part in a long skiing mountain trip with a length of 1000 kilometers through the Kyrgyz , Talas and Ferghana ranges, which lasted 22 days ^[1] . On July 8, 1938, Racek made his first ascent to the peak of Kobyrg ( 4593 m ) in the Choktal massif in Kyrgyzstan ^[9] .

In July 1938, Racek joined the reconnaissance expedition, which went to unexplored areas of the Inylchek, Zvezdochka glaciers and the nameless peak, which was later called the peak of the 20th anniversary of the Komsomol (now Victory Peak , 7,439 m ). The general management of the expedition was carried out by August Lethavet, the assault group was headed by Leonid Gutman. The main objectives of the expedition were the study of possible approaches to the summit and the ascent to it, as well as the study of the upper part of the Inylchek glacier in this area ^[10] . In early September, the group went on the assault. Racek was part of the assault group. However, on September 10, at an altitude of 4800 meters, he became ill, and the next day he, accompanied by Evgeny Ivanov, went down ^[11] . Later, Racek took an active part in the evacuation of the injured Alexander Mukhin , who received severe damage as a result of a fall into a crack about 18 meters deep ^[12] . Despite the losses, the assault group continued to climb, and on September 19, Leonid Gutman, Evgeny Ivanov and Alexander Sidorenko reached the top, which they called the peak of the 20th anniversary of the Komsomol ^[13] . After Vitaly Abalakov’s group climbed Victory Peak in 1956, a comparison of photographs showed that the peak reached in 1938 was actually the peak of Victory Peak. Thus, the first climbers to the Victory Peak were recognized by Gutman, Ivanov and Sidorenko ^[14] .

In the fall of 1938, Racek was called up for military service in the Combat Training Directorate of the SAVO (since 1945 TurkVO ), where he was engaged in mining training of troops in the Pamirs and Tien Shan ^[1] .

In 1939, Racek led the first ascent of the ( 5170 m , c. 5A, along the eastern ridge) ^[15] . In 1940, he was awarded the title of USSR Master of Sports in Mountaineering ^[2] . In 1941, Racek made his first ascent to the peak of Tumannaya in the Trans-Ili Alatau ^[15] . In the early years of World War II, he was sent to Iran to conduct mining training in parts of the Red Army . During this period, Ratsek made several ascents, including the ascent to the highest peak in Iran, the Demavend volcano ( 5610 m ) in 1943 on the instructions of the command of the Turkestan military district ^{[1] [16]} . Racek had to remove the flags with Nazi symbols installed on the top and install Soviet ones in their place. Racek and his accompanying Pavel Rapasov reached the peak of Demavend on July 26, 1943, having successfully completed the task. According to the results of the operation, Racek was awarded the medal " For Military Merit " and promoted to the rank of captain ^[17] .

In 1943, Ratsek, as part of a group of military topographers led by Pavel Rapasov, was sent to the Central Tien Shan to clarify the orography of the ranges. The group managed to clarify the position of the second highest peak of the Soviet Union and the highest peak of the Tien Shan, which at that time was called the peak of the 20th anniversary of the Komsomol. Later in Tashkent , the exact height of the peak ( 7439 m ) was calculated based on the data collected. Also, at the suggestion of Racek ^[16] , the peak was renamed Victory Peak. For these discoveries, the All-Union Geographical Society in 1947 awarded all members of the expedition with gold medals named after P. P. Semenov-Tian-Shansky ^{[1] [16]} .

After the war (1945-1954)

After the war, Racek returned to sport climbing. Since 1945, he worked in the topographic department in the Pamirs, combining work with climbing activities ^[2] . In 1948, Racek organized a mountaineering section in a sports club at the district Officers House in Tashkent ^[16] . In 1949, Racek led the ascent to the peak, called the peak of Alisher Navoi ( 4282 m ) in honor of the 500th anniversary of the Turkic poet . In the same year, Racek made his first ascent to the peak of Paul Robson ( 4282 m ) ^[1] .

In 1950, under the leadership of Racek, the command of the Soviet Army, consisting of climbers of Uzbekistan, climbed Lenin Peak ( 7134 m ) along the northern slope from the Lenin Glacier ( c. 4B) ^[15] . The ascent was preceded by a long and thorough preparation. The northern slope of the peak was explored from an airplane; during the month preceding the assault, the group climbed 4 peaks in the vicinity, as well as acclimatization to the slopes of Lenin peak to a height of 6000 m ^[18] .

The assault group left on August 9 from the base camp at an altitude of 4200 m . On August 11, 14 climbers of the assault group successfully reached an altitude of 6400 m , where they spent two days for additional acclimatization. On August 14, the group moved to the next camp at an altitude of 7000 m . The next morning, 12 of the 14 squad members reached the final assault on the summit - Nikolai Barabanov and Alexander Ryabukhin were unable to continue their journey due to the intensifying symptoms of mountain sickness . All 12 climbers climbed to the top ^[19] . This ascent became the most massive in the history of high-altitude mountaineering at that time ^[2] and the first ever successful ascent of climbers of Uzbekistan to Lenin Peak. Climbing Lenin Peak was marked with gold medals of the 1950 USSR mountain climbing championship in the class of high-altitude ascents ^{[1] [20]} .

In 1951, Racek led the first ascent of the peak of the World ( 4950 m ) in the Zaalaysky ridge . In 1952 and 1953, he organized several expeditions to study the massif of Victory Peak to determine possible climbing routes ^[15] . According to the results of the expedition, Racek wrote that “the eastern ridge should be considered the safest, albeit the longest, route to the top of Victory peak from the Inylchek glacier” ^[21] . In 1954, Racek was awarded the title of Honored Master of Sports of the USSR ^{[1] [18]} . Later that year, a group of military climbers under his leadership made the first ever traverse of Lenin Peak through Razdelnaya peak ^{[to. 1]} . The assault group included five experienced climbers who were already at the top of Lenin's peak in 1950. Also, several young climbers formed an auxiliary detachment, the purpose of which was to assist the assault group in the delivery of equipment and the installation of intermediate camps. The auxiliary detachment began preparations for climbing in early August, having completed more than 10 ascents to the surrounding peaks with a height of more than 5000 m . The assault group left on August 28. On August 30, the assault group reached the peak of Razdelnaya, from where on August 31 they went up to climb Lenin Peak along the western ridge. On September 3, the assault group reached the top of Lenin peak, and on the same day they managed to descend to the base camp ^{[1] [18]} .

1955 Victory Peak Expedition

In 1955, Racek led the joint expedition of the Uzbek Committee of Physical Culture and Sports and the Turkestan Military District to Victory Peak . In parallel with them was another expedition of the Kazakh club of climbers led by Honored Master of Sports of the USSR Yevgeny Kolokolnikov . The Kazakh expedition planned to attempt an ascent along the eastern ridge, and the Uzbek one along the northern ridge. The order of the ascent was established by order of the All-Union Committee on Physical Culture and Sports - at first the Kazakh expedition was to take the assault, and only after the assault was completed the Uzbek team could begin the ascent. Moreover, the groups were invited to join forces to storm the summit that had not been conquered by anyone before ^{[k. 2]} . The leadership of the Uzbek expedition agreed to such a step, but the Kazakh group refused ^[21] .

Contrary to orders, Racek instructed his group to go climbing simultaneously with the Kazakh group. Under the influence of the competition that arose from the Uzbek group, the leadership of the Kazakh expedition changed the initial plan of the ascent, and, despite disagreements within the team, decided to storm the summit “on the move” ^{[c. 3]} . Ratzek ^{[1] [21]} adhered to the same tactics.

Both groups climbed on August 12th. The Kazakh team left the base camp at an altitude of 4200 m , the Uzbek team started from an altitude of 4400 m . A few days later, on August 19, the Kazakh group reached an altitude of 6900 m , where they parked. At about the same height, the Uzbek group appeared. However, on August 19 late in the evening the weather deteriorated sharply, a blizzard began. Kazakh climbers, exhausted by a heavy multi-day assault, were not able to organize the camp properly. The group waited for the weather for several days, making several attempts to go downstairs for help, which killed several climbers. In the end, of the 12 people who ended up in the camp, only one climber survived, Ural Usenov from Almaty, who fell into a crack on the Zvezdochka glacier on August 23 during an attempt to go down. The rescue team of the Kazakh expedition discovered him the next day ^{[14] [21]} .

The Uzbek team, having successfully waited the weather, the next morning made another assault attempt, but it failed. On August 25, she was recalled by the expedition leadership from the northern ridge to the base camp, where she went down on August 26-27. A rescue squad was formed from the members of the assault group under the leadership of Ratsek and Kolokolnikov. Since August 28, the leadership has completely passed to Racek in connection with Kolokolnikov’s disease. However, in a few days of rescue work, his group managed to rise only to a height of 5100 m in the upper reaches of the Zvezdochka glacier, without making any attempts to go higher. Рацек был отстранён за недостаточную оперативность, а руководство спасательными работами было передано Евгению Белецкому и Кириллу Кузьмину , которые срочно прибыли на место трагедии с группой альпинистов ВЦСПС . В ходе спасательных работ были найдены тела двух замёрзших альпинистов и следы других, вероятно, сорвавшихся вниз на ледник ^{[14] [21]} .

После 1955 года

После экспедиции 1955 года, несмотря на неприятности по службе, Рацек не был отстранён от работы ^[23] и продолжил заниматься организацией и проведением армейских альпинистских экспедиций на Памир и Тянь-Шань, а также руководством учебно-спортивных сборов. В 1956 году экспедиция Узбекского комитета физической культуры и спорта и Советской армии под общим руководством Рацека совершила первое восхождение по северо-восточному гребню на вершину Кызыл-Агын в Заалайском хребте Памира ( 6678 м , к. с. 5А) ^[24] . В 1957 году, по предложению Рацека, постановлением Спорткомитета Узбекской ССР был учреждён наградной знак «Пик Ленина», который вручался альпинистам, сумевшим взойти на эту вершину ^[16]. The seasons of 1957 and 1958, Racek and his teams devoted to attempts to climb the highest peak of the Soviet Union, the peak of Stalin (later the peak of Communism, now the peak of Ismoil Somoni , 7495 m ), which he obeyed on the second attempt. Climbing the peak of Communism in 1958 along the eastern ridge ( c. 5B) the combined team of the Uzbek Committee of Physical Culture and Sports and the Turkestan Military District took first place at the USSR mountain climbing championship in the class of high-altitude climbing ^{[k. 4]} . Racek, as a team coach, was awarded a diploma of the first degree ^[25] . In September 1958, Racek led an expedition to Dzerzhinsky Peak ( 6713 m ), as part of which he climbed the summit along a new route from the Coman Glacier along the northern ridge ( c. 4B) ^[24] .

In 1959, Uzbek climbers again went to storm the peak of Victory, led by Racek. As in 1955, the Uzbek team chose the route of climbing along the northern ridge, which was considered the shortest and easiest way to the top, coupled, however, with increased avalanche danger. The assault group was led by Peter Karpov . The total number of the assault group was 25 people, which included experienced and trained climbers who assumed the ascent to the summit, as well as members of auxiliary groups whose task was to deliver food and equipment for organizing intermediate camps ^[14] .

The expedition leadership again applied the tactics of climbing "on the fly." During the ascent, auxiliary groups set up intermediate camps and went down. Four climbers of the assault group, who organized the camp before the last throw, as well as four climbers from the last auxiliary group, reached a height of 7100 m . After setting up the camp, the auxiliary group began the descent, however, they managed to descend only 100 meters to a height of 7000 m , after which they organized a forced parking in a snow cave dug by them. The next morning, unable to continue the descent, they gave a distress signal. The assault squad went down to them and began the evacuation. On August 26, at an altitude of 6,700 m, they organized a parking lot for rest, during which one of the climbers died. The next day, at an altitude of 6600 m , two more climbers died. In conditions of worsening weather, the remaining participants could not continue the descent. Rescue operations were organized, during which only two members of the Kazakh expedition managed to get through to climbers - V. Tsverkunov and A. Vododokhov. As a result of their actions, the remaining members of the assault group were able to descend without loss ^[14] . According to the results of the expedition, Racek was demoted and temporarily removed from part of his duties ^[4] .

The following year, in 1960, another expedition to the Victory Peak was organized, the purpose of which was to completely traverse the massif from the western shoulder to the pass , climb Khan Tengri on a new route from the east, and other ascents. Another task of the expedition was to remove the bodies of climbers who died in the 1959 expedition. The expedition consisted of two parts: a group of trade unions led by Osip Greenfeld and a TurkVO group led by Racek. The general leadership of the expedition of 50 people was assigned to Cyril Kuzmin. However, already on the second day of the expedition, when moving along a snowy plateau at an altitude of about 5200 m, most of the group fell under an avalanche of considerable area (200 by 100 meters in size), in which 10 climbers died. The bodies of the dead were lowered to the base camp on July 20, after which it was decided to complete the expedition ^[14] .

In August 1963, Racek led an expedition, within the framework of which 2 new routes were immediately laid to Engels Peak ( 6,510 m ) - along the southeast ridge ( c. 5B) and along the western ridge ( c. 5A). The following year, Racek led an expedition that traversed Lenin Peak from Oktyabrsky Peak ( 6,780 m ), climbing Lenin Peak along the western ridge and descending from the Krylenko Pass on the northern side of the peak ( c. 5B) ^[24] .

In 1964, Racek was elected Chairman of the Presidium of the newly-organized Ski Federation of Uzbekistan. Until 1969, Racek served as deputy commander of the Turkestan Military District for mountain training ^[23] , completing his service with the rank of lieutenant colonel ^[16] . Racek died on October 12, 1980 in Tashkent at the age of 62 years ^[23] .

In 1960, Racek graduated in absentia from the geographical faculty of Tashkent State University , and in 1970 he defended his dissertation for the degree of candidate of geographical sciences on the topic “ Features of orography and glaciation of the high mountain zone of Central Asia ” at Moscow State University ^{[4] [26]} . After leaving the reserve, he worked in a conservation society , then became the scientific secretary of the scientific council on biosphere problems at the Academy of Sciences of the Uzbek SSR ^[4] . In 1978, he was invited to teach at Tashkent State University, where, on his initiative, a department of tourism and local history at the Faculty of Geography was created ^[16] . In 1980, he was elected an honorary member of the All-Union Geographical Society. Racek is the author of more than 60 books and scientific articles, including mountaineering ^[1] .

Racek was married, his wife's name was Galina Arkadyevna. After the death of Racek, she moved with her eldest daughter Nadezhda and her husband to live in the USA . The youngest daughter, Raceka Irina, after the death of her father, remained in Moscow ^[15] .

In honor of Racek, a peak with a height of 4105 m ^[27] in the Alaarchi Gorge in Zailiysky Alatau is named. In August 1981, Turkestan climbers made first ascents along the northern wall to one of the Pamir peaks in the eastern spur of the Kommunarov ridge in the Zulumart ridge 5801 meters high . After climbing, they called the peak Racek peak ^[16] .

The mountaineering section organized in 1973-1974 in the Tashkent regional council of the voluntary sports society Burevestnik was renamed in 1987 the Tashkent Mountaineering Club named after Vladimir Ratsek ^[28] .

April 12, 2011 in Uzbekistan, in the village of Tavaksay near the city of Chirchik , the mountain-climbing museum named after Vladimir Racek was opened. The museum was founded by a group of enthusiasts who knew Racek. The museum presents some of his personal belongings and photographs ^[29] .

USSR Mountaineering Championships

The data are given in accordance with information from the book of P. S. Rototaev ^[20] .

• 1950 - 01!   1st place (high-altitude class), climbing Lenin Peak , leader in the Soviet Army team, which included V. Aksyonov, V. Zaporozhchenko, Yuri Izrael , Valentin Kovalev , Yu. Maslov, Anatoly Kormshchikov , Eduard Nagel , Victor Naryshkin , Vladimir Nikonov , Vitaly Nozdryukhin , Ivan Rozhnov.

Books

• R.N. Levchenko , V.I. Ratsek. Charvak and Chimgan - recreation areas. - Tashkent: Uzbekistan, 1972. - 45 p.
• N.I. Leonov , V.I. Ratsek. According to Alay. - Tashkent: State Publishing House of the Uzbek SSR, 1962 .-- 136 p.
• B.R. Marechek , V.I. Ratsek. Climbers of Soviet Kyrgyzstan. - Frunze: Society for the dissemination of political and scientific knowledge of the Kyrgyz SSR, 1952. - 36 p.
• V.I. Ratsek. Away from the beaten track. - Tashkent: Uzbekistan, 1984. - 103 p.
• V. I. Racek and others. They say the ascenders. - Tashkent: State Publishing House of the Uzbek SSR, 1963.
• V.I. Ratsek. The riddle of the Bigfoot. - Tashkent: Yesh Guard, 1962 .-- 111 p.
• V.I. Ratsek. The mystery of Khan Tengri. - Tashkent: Joint Publishing House “Pravda Vostoka” and “Kzyl Uzbekistan”, 1949. - 48 p.
• V.I. Ratsek. Korzhenevsky L.N. - Tashkent: FAN, 1977. - 52 p.
• V.I. Ratsek. The icy heart of the Pamirs. - Tashkent: Uzbekistan, 1980 .-- 128 p.
• V.I. Ratsek. The peak of Communism (7492m) is the high-altitude pole of the USSR. - Tashkent, 1972.
• V.I. Ratsek. Peak of Lenin. - Tashkent: Uzbekistan, 1968 .-- 69 p.
• V.I. Ratsek. On the roads of Central Asia. - Tashkent: Uzbekistan, 1972. - 111 p.
• V.I. Ratsek. Five highest peaks of the USSR . - Tashkent: State Publishing House of the Uzbek SSR, 1974. - 118 p.
• V.I. Ratsek. Debunked legends. - Tashkent: State Publishing House of the Uzbek SSR, 1963. - 36 p.
• V.I. Ratsek. A thousand brave. - Tashkent: Yesh Guard, 1971. - 117 p.
• V.I. Ratsek. Chimgan. - Tashkent: Uzbekistan, 1964 .-- 35 p.

Articles

• V.I. Ratsek, I.V. Yukhin . In the area of ​​Victory Peak // Collection “The Conquered Peaks of 1953”. - M .: GIGL, 1954. - S. 57-68 .
• V.I. Ratsek. Glacier named after G.E. Grumm-Grzhimailo // Bulletin of the All-Union Geographical Society. - Publishing House of the Academy of Sciences of the USSR, 1949. - Vol. 1 . - S. 103 .
• V.I. Ratsek. The latest research of the Central Tien Shan and the discovery of the peak of Victory // Transactions of the Uzbek Geographical Society. - Tashkent: Publishing House of the Academy of Sciences of the Uzbek SSR, 1948. - T. II . - S. 46-63 .
• V.I. Ratsek. Icing of the massif of Victory peak // Geographical collection. - M .: Publishing House of the Academy of Sciences of the USSR, 1954. - T. IV .
• V.I. Ratsek. Opening of the peak of Victory // Bulletin of the All-Union Geographical Society. - Publishing House of the Academy of Sciences of the USSR, 1946. - Vol. 5-6 . - S. 583 .
• V.I. Ratsek. Forms of "Christmas tree snow" on Tengri-Tag // Collection "Defeated Peaks 1973-1974". - M .: GIGL, 1976. - S. 64-69 .

Books

• E.A. Beletsky . Peak of Lenin. - 2nd ed. - M .: Thought, 1970 .-- S. 206.
• D.M. Zatulovsky. On the glaciers and peaks of Central Asia . - M .: OGIZ, 1948 .-- 292 p.
• P.P. Zakharov , A.I. Martynov , Yu.A. Zhemchuzhnikov. Mountaineering. Encyclopedic Dictionary / Ed. Zakharova P.P. - M .: TVT Division, 2006 .-- 744 p. - ISBN 5987240301 .
• P.S. Rototaev . To the heights. Chronicle of Soviet mountaineering . - M .: Physical education and sport , 1977 .-- 272 p.
• I.A. Cherepov. Riddles of the Tien Shan . - M .: Geografgiz, 1951. - 148 p.

Articles

• M. E. Grudzinsky. Kungey-Alatau (geographic and climbing characteristic) // Collection “The Conquered Peaks of 1970-1971”. - M .: GIGL, 1972. - S. 211—236 .
• V.A. Kiesel . Climbing expeditions of 1954-1957 // Collection "The Conquered Peaks of 1954-1957". - M .: GIGL, 1959. - S. 4-20 .
• K.K. Kuzmin . The northernmost seven-thousander // Collection "The Conquered Peaks of 1970-1971." - M .: GIGL, 1972. - S. 42-79 .
• A. I. Polyakov . At the country's high stadium // Collection "The Conquered Peaks of 1954-1957". - M .: GIGL, 1959. - S. 45-63 .
• C. M. Savvon. Chronology of first ascents and ascents along new routes to the peaks of the Soviet Union, exceeding 6,500 m // Collection “The Conquered Peaks of 1961-1964”. - M .: GIGL, 1966 .-- S. 431-443 .
• I.V. Yukhin . 12 climbers at the peak of Lenin // Collection “The Conquered Peaks of 1951”. - M .: GIGL, 1951. - S. 182-192 .
• The best sports ascents // Collection "The Conquered Peaks 1958-1961". - M .: GIGL, 1962. - S. 344-366 .

• P.P. Zakharov . Vladimir Racek - life dedicated to the big mountains (Russian) . mountain.ru. Date of treatment March 10, 2017.
• Racek Vladimir Iosifovich (Russian) . Novospassky portal. Date of treatment March 11, 2017.
• G.V. Kalinin . Mountaineering Museum in Tashkent (Russian) . Climbers Club "St. Petersburg", www.alpklubspb.ru. Date of appeal March 31, 2017.
• G.V. Kalinin . The history of Uzbek mountaineering or they were the first (Russian) . Climbers Club "St. Petersburg", www.alpklubspb.ru. Date of treatment April 4, 2017.