Vasily Sergeyevich Pelevin (1910-1998) - Soviet climber, Honored Master of Sports of the USSR (1951), senior mountaineering instructor. In 1949 and 1952 Pelevin's ascents took first places in the USSR mountaineering championships . Member of the 2nd Soviet Antarctic expedition in 1957-1958. Pelevin had a Ph.D.
| Vasily Sergeevich Pelevin | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|
 | ||||
| Date of Birth | 1910 | |||
| Place of Birth | Moscow Province , Russian Empire | |||
| Date of death | 1998 | |||
| Place of death | Moscow | |||
| Citizenship |  Russian empire →  the USSR → Russia | |||
| Occupation | Climber , instructor | |||
| Awards and prizes |
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Short Biography
Vasily Sergeyevich Pelevin was born in 1910 in the village of Shchelkovo, Moscow province. In 1938 he graduated from the Moscow Institute of Chemical Engineering , candidate of technical sciences in the field of combustion physics as applied to jet engineering and metallurgy. He worked at ENIN them. G. M. Krzhizhanovsky and VNII industrial gas. In 1941, Pelevin was drafted into the Red Army by the Moskovoretsky RVK of Moscow, and in February 1942 he was sent to the front [1] . During World War II he was the commander of a flamethrower platoon on the Karelian and North-Western fronts. After being wounded, he joined the tank forces, took part in the Battle of Kursk , as well as in Prague and Berlin operations. By the time the war ended, he had the rank of captain , was the head of the chemical service of the tank corps. Marked with three orders [2] (including orders of the Patriotic War I and II degrees [1] [3] ) and medals [2] [4] .
Mountaineering
Pelevin began mountain climbing in 1935 in the Caucasus . In 1937 he graduated from the school of mountaineering instructors of the All-Union Central Council of Trade Unions, worked as an instructor and senior instructor in climbing camps, and was a trainer at the school of mountaineering instructors [2] [4] .
Pelevin made his first sports ascents even before the war, however, all significant ascents were made by him already in the post-war period. Most of the ascents he made as part of the team DSO "Spartak" , which was led by Vitaly Mikhailovich Abalakov . In 1940, together with climbers Makatrov and Maslov Pelevin traversed all seven peaks of the Talgar massif (first ascent) [5] . In 1947, Pelevin traversed the Shkheld massif and made the first ascent of a new route along the northeast ridge to the Shchurovsky peak. In 1948, he traversed the Bezengi wall . In 1949, he completed the traverse Dykhtau - Koshtantau (this route took 1st place at the USSR mountaineering championship in the traverse class). In 1950 and 1951, Pelevin spent in a special group to ensure geological exploration in Zabalkalie in the area of the Kodar and Udokan ridges. In 1952, as the leader of the group, he climbed the peak of Mizhirgi along the northern ridge (Pelevin’s route,c. 5B), which shared the first place in the USSR championship in the class of technically difficult ascents with climbing to Chatyntau on the buttress of the northern wall, made by the team of Boris Garf. Climbing Mizhirgi along the northern ridge is considered very difficult due to its great length (about 2,000 meters), a number of difficult sections and its high altitude (about 5,000 meters). Pelevin's team needed to organize 4 nights on the wall before they reached the top [6] . In 1953, Pelevin climbed the northern peak of the Talgar massif along the western wall (their route was subsequently called the Pelevin route ) [2] [7] . Pelevin participated in the 2nd Antarctic expedition of the USSR Academy of Sciences, in the framework of which he was the first leader of the wintering team at the Komsomolskaya station in the winter of 1957-1958 [8] .
Sporting Achievements
USSR Mountaineering Championships
- 1949 - 1st place (traverse class), traverse of the Koshtantau – Dykhtau peaks with the ascent to Dykhtau along the northern ridge, in the Spartak team led by Vitaly Abalakov , which also included Nikolai Gusak , Valentina Cheredova , Yakov Arkin , Ivan Leonov , Vladimir Martynov , Yuri Moskaltsov .
- 1951 - 2nd place (traverse class), traverse of the Ushba massifs - Shkheldy, leader in the Spartak team, which also included Ivan Leonov, Victor Rubanov , Shakir Tenishev .
- 1952 - / 1st / 2nd places (technical class), climbing to the top of Mizhirgi along the northern ridge, leader in the Spartak team, which also included Ivan Leonov, Victor Rubanov, Alexander Borovikov , Vladimir Kizel .
- 1953 - 3rd place (technical class), climbing the northern peak of the Talgar massif along the western wall, leader in the Spartak team, which also included Victor Nagaev , Victor Rubanov, Konstantin Korolev.
Notes
- ↑ 1 2 Pelevin Vasily Sergeevich 1910g. . podvignaroda.ru. Date of treatment February 22, 2017.
- ↑ 1 2 3 4 P.P. Zakharov , A.I. Martynov , Yu.A. Zhemchuzhnikov. Mountaineering. Encyclopedic Dictionary / Ed. Zakharova P.P. - M .: TVT Division, 2006 .-- S. 595. - 744 p. - ISBN 5987240301 .
- ↑ Pelevin Vasily Sergeevich . podvignaroda.ru. Date of treatment February 22, 2017.
- ↑ 1 2 Pelevin Vasily Sergeevich . Climbers Club "St. Petersburg", www.alpklubspb.ru. Date of treatment February 19, 2017.
- ↑ D.M. Zatulovsky . On the glaciers and peaks of Central Asia . - M .: OGIZ / GIGL, 1948 .-- 292 p.
- ↑ P.I. Povarnin. Soviet mountaineering in 1952 // Collection "The Conquered Peaks of 1953". - M .: GIGL, 1954. - S. 3-20 .
- ↑ 1 2 P.S. Rototaev . To the heights. Chronicle of Soviet mountaineering ( Appendix 1. Winners of the national mountaineering championship) . - M .: Physical education and sport , 1977 .-- 272 p.
- ↑ 2nd Complex Antarctic Expedition of the USSR Academy of Sciences 1956-1958 . polarpost.ru. Date of treatment February 22, 2017.