Giusto Gervasutti ( Italian: Giusto Gervasutti ; April 17, 1909, Cervignano del Friuli , Italy - September 16, 1946, Mont Blanc du Takul peak, France ) - Italian climber , the author of the first ascents of a number of routes of high complexity in the Alps . He died as a result of a fall during the descent along the eastern wall of the Mont Blanc du Takul peak.
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Biography
Justo Gervazutti was born on April 17, 1909 in the commune of Cervignano del Friuli in Italy. At the age of 22, he moved to Turin , where he studied at the university. In Turin, Justo got the opportunity to improve the climbing and climbing skills, originally acquired in the Dolomites in the region, where he had made some fairly difficult climbs by that time [3] [4] [5] .
The year 1932 began for Gervasutti with a series of winter ascents to Nordend , Matterhorn , Aiguille-Werth , Torre Koldai. In August 1933, Gervazutti and Piero Zanetti made a second ascent along the southern ridge of the . A few days later, on August 14, 1933, they attempted to climb the Cro route ( Italian Croz Spur ) on the northern wall of the Grand Joras massif, but were forced to interrupt the climb and return back due to bad weather. On October 6, 1933, Gervazutti and Aldo Bonacossa made the first ascent of the route along the western wall and south-south-western ridge to the summit of Camerachcho in the massif. As pioneers, they gave the name the Albert Tower route in honor of King Albert I of Belgium . The route they traveled is quite complicated even for modern climbers (6a / VI +) [3] [6] .
After a publication in a Turin newspaper in 1933, telling about the success of his team in skiing competitions “ ”, Gervazutti received the nickname il fortissimo ( Strong ). The nickname successfully emphasized the versatility of Gervazutti, since he equally well mastered both rock technique and ice-snow, which was quite rare in those days [3] [4] [5] .
In July 1934, Gervazutti made several attempts to climb the Grand Joras along the northern wall, driven by a desire to solve one of the last problems of the Alps. However, they all ended in failure. In addition, on August 13, together with partner in alpclub in Turin, Gervasutti was able to make the first direct ascent of the Gervazutti couloir on the eastern wall of Mont Blanc du Takule (D-). On August 23-24, Gervazutti and made the first ascent along the northwestern wall of the peak of (TD) [3] [5] .
In the summer of 1935, Gervazutti made two more very difficult ascent. First, on July 16, 1935, Gervasutti, in a team with , and Renato Chabot, made the first ascent along the northwest ridge to the peak of Pique Adolphe (one of the minor peaks of Mont Blanc du Takule, D), and on August 30–31, Gervazutti and Lucien Davis made the first ascent along the southern ridge to in the (TD) [3] [5] .
In the winter of 1936, Gervazutti made the first winter ascent along the Hornley ridge of the Matterhorn peak [7] . July 23-24, 1936 Gervasutti and Lucien Davis made the first ascent along the western wall to Western (TD +). On August 17–18, he, together with Gabriel Boccalatte, made the first ascent along the southwestern wall along the route, later named after them in the Gervasutti-Bocalatta route (TD + / V +) [3] [5] .
In 1942, Gervazutti finally managed to make a first ascent to Grand Joras. On August 16-17, he and the Italian climber climbed the eastern wall of Grand Joras along the route of difficulty category ED. The route later received the name Gervazutti [3] [5] . In August 1944, Gervazutti and walked a new route along the previously unchallenged southern wall of Peak Adolf (TD +) [3] [8] .
Gervasutti died on September 16, 1946 during an attempt to climb with Giuseppe Gallardone on the side of the Gervasutti on the eastern wall of the Mont Blanc du Takul peak. Due to the worsened weather conditions, climbers decided to return before reaching the top. However, on the descent, Gervazutti stumbled and fell down [3] [4] [5] .
Gervasutti named several routes of high complexity in the Alps [3] . The National School of Mountaineering in Turin bears the name of Gervasutti ( Italian: Scuola Nazionale di Alpinismo Giusto Gervasutti ) [9] . The alpine in the Mont Blanc massif ( Courmayeur commune, Italy) in the area of the Frebudze glacier at an altitude of 2835 meters above sea level was also named after the Italian climber [10] .
Bibliography
- Giusto Gervasutti. Gervasutti's climbs. - The Mountaineers, 1979. - 201 p.
- Giusto Gervasutti. Scalate nelle Alpi / P. Crivellaro. - CDA & VIVALDA, 2005 .-- 227 p. - ISBN 8874800649 .
Notes
- ↑ 1 2 German National Library , Berlin State Library , Bavarian State Library , etc. Record # 119036983 // General regulatory control (GND) - 2012—2016.
- ↑ BNF ID : 2011 Open Data Platform .
- ↑ 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Giusto Gervasutti - (1909-1946) - CAAI (Italian) . angeloelli.it. Date of treatment February 11, 2017.
- ↑ 1 2 3 Andrea Giorda. Giusto Gervasutti: i 100 anni del Fortissimo (Italian) . Planetmountain.com (16 dicembre 2009). Date of treatment February 11, 2017.
- ↑ 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Giovanni Titta Rosa. Scalatori. Le più audaci imprese alpinistiche da Whymper al "Sesto grado" raccontate dai protagonisti. - HOEPLI EDITORE, 1952. - P. 203-211. - 376 p. - ISBN 8820314509 .
- ↑ Luca Maspes "Rampikino". Via nuova sulla P.ta Mer. del Cameraccio e traversata (Italian) . Planetmountain.com (26 giugno 2010). Date of treatment February 11, 2017.
- ↑ Robin G. Collomb, John Neill. Pennine Alps Central. - Alpine Club, 1975 .-- P. 241—259. - 373 p. - ISBN 9780900523144 .
- ↑ Gervasutti, Pic Adolphe Rey, Monte Bianco, Alpi Graie (Italian) . Planetmountain.com. Date of treatment February 11, 2017.
- ↑ Scuola Nazionale di Alpinismo Giusto Gervasutti - Storia (Italian) . Scuola Nazionale di Alpinismo Giusto Gervasutti. Date of treatment February 11, 2017.
- ↑ Bivacco Gervasutti (Italian) . SUCAI Torino. Date of treatment February 11, 2017.
Links
- Storia dell'alpinismo: Giusto Gervasutti (Italian) . alpinistidellambrusco.org. Date of treatment February 11, 2017.
- The history of mountaineering in persons: Giusto Gervasutti (Giusto Gervasutti) . 4sport.ua. Date of treatment February 10, 2012.