Ivanov, Evgeny Ivanovich (climber)

In 1938, Ivanov was a member of the climbing expedition of the USSR Sports Committee on the Tien Shan , in the vicinity of the Zvezdochka glacier ^[2] . September 19, 1938 a group of three climbers, which included Leonid Gutman (leader), Yevgeny Ivanov and Alexander Sidorenko , conquered the peak, which they called "the peak of the 20th anniversary of the Komsomol." The obsolete aneroid that they had with them showed a height of 6930 m . At that time, they did not even suspect the presence of “seven thousandths” in this area (that is, mountains above 7000 m ). Many years later, when in 1956 Vitaly Abalakov’s group conquered Victory Peak (the second highest mountain in the USSR - 7439 m ), the similarity of photographs taken from the top during the expeditions of 1938 and 1956 led to the conclusion that the “peak 20- Komsomol anniversary ”and the peak of Victory, and to the recognition that the first conquerors of the peak were actually Gutman, Ivanov and Sidorenko ^[4] .

In 1952, Yevgeny Ivanov, in a group led by Kirill Kuzmin ( All-Union Central Council of Trade Unions ), took part in the ascent to the peak of 6138 m , which the expedition called the peak of Shvernik . The peak was conquered by 14 climbers. This climb took first place in the high-altitude class in the USSR mountaineering championship of 1952 ^[5] .

In 1955, Evgeny Ivanov participated in a multi-day traverse in the Zaalaysky ridge . At first, as part of the Soviet-Chinese expedition, led by Yevgeny Beletsky, he made the first ascent to Oktyabrsky peak ( 6700 m , on the way to which an unnamed peak 6673 m high ), called the peak of Unity , "in honor of the friendship of the Soviet and Chinese peoples" was also conquered. On August 15, 1955, 14 Soviet and 4 Chinese climbers reached the peak of Oktyabrsky peak, after which, as planned, the group split up: 11 climbers (seven Soviet and four Chinese) went down, and the All-Union Central Council of Trade Unions composed of seven people led Kirill Kuzmin, Honored Master of Sports of the USSR , continued traversing the Zaalaysky ridge through the Krylenko pass ( 5900 m ) to Lenin peak ( 7134 m ), the peaks of which the traverse participants reached on August 21 ^{[6] [7]} . In addition to Kuzmin and Ivanov, this team also included Alexei Ugarov , Alexander Gozhev , Boris Dmitriev , Anatoly Kovyrkov and Peter Skorobogatov . This trip took third place in the USSR championship in mountaineering in the traverse class ^[5] .

In 1961, Evgeni Ivanov participated in the ascent to Korzhenevskaya peak from the south (from the Moskvin glacier ), led by Boris Romanov (Trud). 21 climbers climbed to the top, and this climb took second place in the USSR championship in mountaineering in high-altitude class ^[5] . As a result, Korzhenevskaya peak became the fourth seven-thousandth mountain to which Ivanov climbed - thus, he was the first of the climbers to conquer all seven-thousandths of the USSR (at that time it was believed that the height of the Khan-Tengri peak was 6995 m , and it was not referred to the seven-thousandths). Thus, he became the first owner of the title “ Snow Leopard ” (“The Conqueror of the Highest Mountains of the USSR”), which was awarded to him in 1967 ^[3] .

USSR Mountaineering Championships

The data are given in accordance with the information from the book of P. S. Rototaev ^[5] .

• 1952 - 01!   1st place (high-altitude class), climbing 6138 peak (Shvernik peak), in a group led by Kirill Kuzmin (VTsSPS), which also included Ram Andreev , Boris Dmitriev , Anatoly Kovyrkov , Leonid Krasavin , Vladimir Maslennikov , G. Rubinstein , Ergaly Ryspaev , Rostislav Selidzhanov, Peter Skorobogatov , Yakov Fomenko , N. Khakimulin and Arkady Shkrabkin .
• 1955 - 03!   3rd place (traverse class), traverse of peaks Oktyabrsky peak - Lenin peak , in the group led by Kirill Kuzmin (VTsSPS), which also included Alexey Ugarov , Alexander Gozhev , Boris Dmitriev , Anatoly Kovyrkov and Peter Skorobogatov .
• 1957 - 03!   3rd place (high-altitude class), climbing Leningrad peak through the Pamir firn plateau , in a group led by Kirill Kuzmin ("Petrel"), which also included Valerian Bakeshin , Nikolai Belavin , Vladimir Staritsky , Dmitry Ivanov , Ivan Galustov , Yuri Antipov , Vladimir Buyanov , Boris Bychkov , Dobza Gagaev , Lev Lebedev , Roman Stroganov and Nikolai Shalaev .
• 1959 - 02!   2nd place (traverse class), traverse of peaks Leningrad peak - Yevgeny Abalakov peak, in a group led by Kirill Kuzmin ("Petrel"), which also included Boris Bychkov , Anatoly Kovyrkov , Victor Potapov , Anatoly Sevastyanov , Nikolai Shalaev , Nikolai Alkhutov , Vladimir Danilov, Varis Rakhimov , Victor Sibiryakov and Vladimir Shistko .
• 1961 - 02!   2nd place (high-altitude class), climbing Korzhenevskaya peak from the south, in a group led by Boris Romanov (“Trud”), which also included Vladimir Vorozhishchev , Vladimir Bezlyudny , Boris Gavrilov , Kurban Gadzhiev , Vadim Zubakov , Vladislav Koptev , Yuri Tyatinin , Vladimir Klimov , Boris Korshunov , V. Kuznetsov, Yuri Kulinich , Vyacheslav Lavrinenko , Boris Levin , Voiko Milovanovich , Alexander Myasnikov , Vyacheslav Romanov, Vyacheslav Onishchenko , D. Polyakov and Yu. Snetkov.

• List of Honored Masters of Sports of the USSR (mountaineering)
• USSR Mountaineering Championship