Mountaineering in Russia

Emblem of the Russian Mining Society

The official date of the beginning of Russian mountaineering can be considered the year of creation of the Russian Mining Society (RGO) - 1900. Until that date, there were separate ascents in various regions of Russia.

In August 1788, members of the expedition of I. Billings, led by Daniel Gaus, ascended to Kluchevskaya Sopka .

In 1817, a group of officers of the Pyatigorsk garrison tried to ascend to the highest point of the Caucasus - Elbrus (5642 m), but because of a blizzard they were forced to return from a height of 5000 meters. 12 years later, on August 29, 1829, the top of Elbrus was conquered by the junior conductor of the Elbrus expedition of the Russian Academy of Sciences, Kilar Hashirov , who first climbed the eastern peak of Elbrus (5621 m). Prior to the jumper between the peaks, the senior guide Ahiya Sotgayev, academician E. Lenz and the Cossack P. Lysenkov also climbed to a height of 5,100 meters. In honor of the first conquest of Elbrus in Pyatigorsk and Nalchik, two memorable cast-iron plaques were installed ^[1] .

In 1835, a member of the Academies and Geographical Societies of several countries, the Russian geographer Platon Chikhachev, traveling from Canada to Tierra del Fuego, made a number of ascents in the Andes, including Pichinchu (4787 m).

In the second half of the XIX century, Russian topographers ascended a number of peaks of the Caucasus (Chaukhi, Bazarduzu and others). The most famous among them was Andrei Vasilyevich Shepherds . In 1890, with three Cossacks, he ascended to the Western summit of Elbrus, and later conquered 10 more peaks of the Caucasus ^[2] . After the creation of the Russian Geographical Society in 1845, many expeditions were conducted to the mountainous regions of Central and Central Asia , in which famous travelers took part: P. P. Semenov-Tyan-Shansky , N. M. Przhevalsky , A. P. Fedchenko , And V. Mushketov and others. During mountain journeys they passed many gorges, passes, mapped ridges and peaks.

In the last quarter of the XIX century a number of mountain clubs were created: in Tiflis , Odessa , Pyatigorsk . Since 1900, the Russian Mining Society operated with branches in Vladikavkaz , Pyatigorsk, Sochi , Verny (now Alma-Ata ). The total number of members of this society consisted of about 1000 members, which was about 70 times less than in the Austro-German Alplub ^[2] .

In 1914, the geographers and lovers of the mountains, the Tronov brothers ascended to the highest point of the Altai - the eastern summit of Belukha Mountain (4506 m) ^[1] .

During the period from 1788 to 1917, relatively few ascents were made in Russia: 3 people on Klyuchevskaya Sopka; Elbrus - 110 people; 125 people in Ararat; on Kazbek - 200 people; Belukha - 2 people. Total - 440 people, of whom - 160 foreign climbers. At that time, mountaineering in Russia was a lot of wealthy individuals and did not have the organizational and material basis for the mass mountaineering movement in the country. However, during this period, many Russian lovers of mountain travel preferred foreign mountains: the Alps, the Pyrenees, the Tatras ^[3] .

In the Soviet Union, unlike other countries, primarily Western European , American , Asian countries , mountaineering was seen as one of the sports of great practical importance ^[4] .

For decades, the USSR developed a sports system of mountaineering, with sports ranks and titles, from competitions right up to the country's championships, which was not the case abroad. She became united in the Soviet mountaineering, identical to other sports, cultivated in the country.

Having emerged in 1923, and not having much experience in the basics of organization and practice of mountaineering, already in the pre-war years in the Soviet Union the foundations were laid for mass climbing as a sport.

Pre-war mountaineering

In the pre-war years, mountaineering in the USSR became widespread. There were 17 only trade union climbing camps , but the total number exceeded 30. In 1936, alpiniads, camps, amateur groups gathered more than 20 thousand people, and in 1937 already 30 thousand people ^[5] .

Only the first ascents to the previously not conquered summits in 1937, more than 70 were made. Such a number of the first ascents was not performed in any of the previous seasons. The sportsmanship of the climbers grew. Indicative in this sense, climbing Ushba . Previously, victories over her were a great rarity for foreign climbers. During 1888-1937, that is, 50 years from the date of the first conquest of Ushba in 1888, less than 30 people visited its peaks. In 1937, 57 climbers climbed the summits of Ushba. For the first time, a traverse of the summits of the massif was performed simultaneously from two sides (from the north - by the group of E. Abalakov , from the south - by the group of E. Kazakova). The first wall ascent to the southern summit by Svaneti climbers G. Khergiani, B. Khergiani, V. Khergiani, M. Gvarliani and C. Chartolani took place. They passed the southeast wall, which could not be overcome by many outstanding foreign climbers ^[5] .

Alpiniad became widespread. The first mountaineering CDKA: fifty army alpinists climb Elbrus . The second alpiniad of the CDKA was held in the form of a military campaign with the participation of aviation . During this alpiniad, the summit of Elbrus reached about three hundred people.

Considering the mass nature of mountaineering and its importance for the country, the USSR Central Election Commission established the “ Mountaineer of the USSR ” badges of I and II levels in 1934. In January 1937, a section of mountaineering appeared at the All-Union Committee for Physical Culture and Sports, which was designed to help it develop mountaineering. Its first chairman was N.V. Krylenko .

In 1939, the All-Union Committee for Physical Culture and Sports approves for mountaineers with outstanding achievements the title of master of sports and honored master of sports ^[6] .

The “ Mountaineer of the USSR ” badge of the first stage marked the entry into mountaineering; The “Mountaineer of the USSR” badge of stage II testified to the mastery of the initial stage of sports mountaineering, expressed in the development of paths to the 4th category of difficulty. The title of master of mountaineering spoke about mastering the skill of climbing to the summits, including the paths to them of the 5th category of difficulty, and the honored master said about mastering the highest skill of mountain climbing, outstanding achievements in conquering the summits and great personal contribution to the development of Soviet mountaineering. To get the icon it was necessary to fulfill certain requirements. First of all, it was envisaged: the surrender of the standards of the TRP ; knowledge of the nature of the mountains in all its external manifestations; mastering the techniques for overcoming routes of various kinds; knowledge of safety methods and the ability to provide first aid. To fulfill these requirements, serious preparation was needed, based on clear programs that are uniform for the whole country. This is exactly what laid the new mountaineering system. Since the practical requirements for badges provided for the mandatory passage of mountain routes of different complexity, it became necessary to develop a unified classification of routes across the passes and to the summits.

In 1940 there were more than 10 thousand participants in sport climbing, of which 192 were on routes of the 4th and 5th categories of difficulty.

During the Great Patriotic War, mountaineers fought in the mountains of the Caucasus , not allowing the elite mountain rifle units of the Edelweiss division to cross the Main Caucasus Range to the Black Sea .

Post-War Mountaineering

Climbing lessons resumed in 1944. In 1944, a trade union mountaineering led by A. Poyasov and E. Kazakova took place in the Caucasus in the Dombaysky district, bringing together 100 participants. In the same year, 100 Georgian climbers climbed Kazbek . In 1944, an instructor trip to the Zailiisky Alatau ridge in Kazakhstan , a hike in battle sites on the passes of the Main Caucasian Ridge, a trip by Georgian pioneers and schoolchildren led by Alexandra Dzhaparidze with overcoming passes and climbing the accessible peaks were also carried out ^[5] .

The first post-war mountaineering season was actually in 1945: the Georgian mountaineering in the Dombai district; three camps have prepared 600 badges " Mountaineer of the USSR "; School instructors Georgian ( Shovi ) and All-Union ( Gorelnik ) committees on physical education and sport - 124 junior instructors. More than 800 people participated in sports ascents, of which 53 passed routes of the 4th and 5th categories of difficulty. All this indicated that climbers regained their shape after so many years of interruption ^[5] .

In 1946 mountaineering sports classes were approved. The overall system of work remained the same: sections in local physical education teams and climbing camps of the SWD of trade unions in the mountains. All this is under the general guidance of the State Committee and Regional Committee .

The growth of sportsmanship in mountaineering is reflected in the level of requirements for sports classes. For example, in 1946, in order to get the I grade, it was necessary to make only 14 ascents (including 4A and 4B alone), and to fulfill the master of sports standard, 17 ascents, among which there is only one ascent 5A. In 1956, it took 25 ascents to get the I grade (three of them 4A, two 4B and one 5A), and to complete the master of sports norm - 32 ascents (of which three 5A and two 5B). Such an increase in discharge standards, as a reflection of the ever-increasing sportsmanship, was characteristic of all sports and reflected the general trend in the development of sports in the country.

USSR Mountaineering Championships

From 1949 to 1991, regular mountaineering championships of the USSR were held in different climbing classes. Competitions were command ^[7] .

Initially, the annual USSR Championships were held in three classes:

• Class of technically challenging ascents
• Traverse class
• Altitude class

Since 1965, the championships were held in four classes: added altitude-technical class.

The very first years of the country's mountaineering championships showed the effectiveness of the competition system. Every year the number of teams participating championships increased. Complicated routes to the heights. All this positively influenced the further growth of sportsmanship.

With the growth of the quality of sports climbing, the sports system of the Soviet mountaineering was improved. As a result of the introduction of discharge standards (1946), the mountaineering championship (1948) and the distribution of sports medals (1953) to their prize-winners, mountaineering became a common system of sports cultivated in the USSR.

Climbing competitions in the CIS

After the collapse of the USSR, the development of sports mountaineering began in the CIS countries, taking into account the accumulated experience in the development of sports mountaineering in previous years. The CIS open championship is held annually ^[8] . In most of the CIS countries, various mountaineering competitions are held. Only teams with at least one bundle can participate in competitions.

Mountaineering competitions in Russia

Mountaineering competitions in Russia are held in accordance with the Rules of competitions and the organization of ascents ^[9] in the following classes:

• rocky - to the top to 4250 m above sea level;
• technical - to the top to 5750 m above sea level;
• altitude - tops above 6500 m above sea level;
• high-altitude; icy snow; first ascension - climbing routes are specified in the regulations on competitions.

Competitions can be held in person and in absentia, in one or two rounds. When conducting competitions in two rounds, in the first round, competitions in the technique of mountaineering are usually held - the so-called “school”, with the aim of identifying the most technically competent and strong teams through competitions on the prepared tracks. The points earned in the “school” are summed up with the points received for the stated and passed routes.

Climbing is assessed by a brigade of judges in the appropriate class based on reports in a special form submitted by the teams after passing the declared route, as well as on the basis of observations of the teams on the route, if conditions allow. When scoring a team, the judges take into account: difficulty, speed, tactics, safety, weather conditions ^[10] .

General route classification rules

Climbing routes (ascents) are divided in order of increasing difficulty into categories - from 1st to 6th. Categories from the 2nd to the 6th inclusive are subdivided into two subcategories - A and B. They are consistent with the current Unified All-Russian Sports Classification (Mountaineering, discharge requirements) ^[11] .

Route Classification Procedure

A preliminary assessment of the complexity of the route is made by the climbers themselves - the pioneers of the climbing routes. For the official assignment of the category of the traversed route to the classification commission of the Mountaineering Federation of Russia , a report of the established form is submitted, including a conclusion on the preliminary assessment of the route in comparison with those classified by the same semi-category of difficulty available in the ascension experience of participants in this group ^[12] .

Only the ascent path is included in the category of difficulty of the classified climbing route. The route to the beginning of the route and the descent from the summit (when traversing - the descent from the last summit) is not included in the category of complexity of the route, but should be reflected in the report. Under the traverse we mean the passage of at least two peaks, and the descent from the previous peak must pass in the direction of the next, but not along the ascent path. Traverse of one vertex is not classified.

The route can be classified as first ascent, first ascent, option, combination of routes. The first ascent is considered the ascent to the top for the first time, it will also be the first ascent along this route. The first ascent is considered to be an ascent along a route laid along non-completed slopes, ridges, buttresses , and edges (when traversing, when new sections, without re-passing, determine the higher category of route complexity). An option is an ascent along a route that partially coincides with a previously completed or passing along a previously completed wall (slope), not divided by a ridge, ribs, couloir , etc., to the desired route. routes (classified individually for groups). Climbing on routes 6B cat. next after the recommendation of the commission (on new routes - together with the conclusion of a group of experts) are approved by the Board of the Russian Mountaineering Federation ^[12] .

• Alpklub MEI
• Alpklub MSU
• Alpklub MAI
• Alpklub MEPI
• Alpklub CSKA them. A.S. Demchenko
• Climbing club SKIF
• Alpklub 7 vertices

• Rotoev PS To the tops. Chronicle of the Soviet mountaineering. - M .: "Physical Education and Sport" , 1977. - 272 p. - 30 000 copies