Kanzu

Russia

In a women's suit, it appeared in the second half of the 18th century and existed in fashion until the first half of the 19th century .

Initially, the name of a short jacket that was worn over a ladies' dress. In the 1810s of the 19th century, a kanzu in the form of a cape with flounces imitating a sleeve covers the upper part of the bodice of the dress. In the 1830-1840s, a kanzu, which looked like a large scarf, was thrown over the shoulders, covering the ladies' neckline, then the long ends crossed on the chest, and then tied at the waist ^[1] .

They made kanza from embroidered tulle , kisei , batiste or lace.

The styles of kanzu were distinguished: the “Leontin”, which greatly opened the neck; with a particularly elegant Camargo finish, named after the French dancer Camargo , a seven-pointed shape, the four ends of which descended from shoulder to arm.

The word "kanzu" practically came out of the vocabulary in the 50-60s of the 19th century, and a similar detail of a woman’s costume is often called simply a scarf.

At this time, the scarf of the Marie Antoinette style was popular with long ends tied behind ^[2] . There was a longer version of such a scarf, for example, made of muslin, embroidered firmware and lace, it was crossed at the back and connected with two satin bows, the last of which went down low on the dress. Long satin ribbons sewn to the collar also descended onto the dress and mixed with the ends of the scarf ^[3] . There was another way of wearing, in which the scarf was crossed on the chest and hung with the ends in front of the dress, held by a sash , the ends of which were tied behind. The kerchief "Marie Antoinette" was intended for the wardrobe of young women.

Other countries

Kerchiefs, covering the neck and tied at the waist, were common in women's costumes of Great Britain , France and America of the 18th-19th centuries. They were called kanzu, fishu-kanzu or just fishu .

Literature

• Yes, tell me again that I thought about the kanese ; that it needs to be embroidered with crumb ^{[K 1]} (from the novel by F. M. Dostoevsky " Poor People ", 1844-1845) ^[4] ;
• (Olga enters from the side door, in a white muslin skirt and black lace kanzu , with a scythe around her head. <...>
  

Lydia (getting up).
- All masher. Firstly, it’s kanzu , it’s too elegant and it spoils your waist, <...> (from the unfinished comedy of Leo Tolstoy “Free Love”, 1856 ) ^[5] ;

• This dress didn’t quite reach the shoulders and, moreover, crawled a little, why the very shoulders and neck of the chubby Pelageya Vlasyevna even seemed through the muslin kanzah “snow blocks, blushed with the first ray of love” (from the novel “The Big Lady” by V. A. Vonlylyarsky , 1897).

Painting

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  Comtesse de La Châtre (1789)

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  Portrait of a Lady (c. 1790)

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  Sarah McClean Bolton (1796)

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  Lady in blue. Portrait of E. M. Martynova (1897)

Comments

Sources

• Kirsanova R. M. Kanzu // Costume in Russian art culture of the 18th – first half of the 20th centuries. / The experience of the encyclopedia / Edited by T. G. Morozova, V. D. Sinyukova. - M: Big Russian Encyclopedia, 1995. - S. 114-115. - ISBN 5-85270-144-0 .
• Kirsanova R.M. Kanzu // Pink Xandrake and the Great Handkerchief. Costume - a thing and an image in Russian literature of the XIX century .. - M: Book, 1989. - S. 99-100. - ISBN 5-212-00130-7 .