British Expedition to Chomolungma (1924)

At the beginning of the 20th century, British researchers were the first to try to reach both the North (expedition 1875–1876) and the South (expedition 1910–1913) poles, but failed. The desire to restore national prestige led them to the "third pole" - the highest mountain on Earth.

But even approaching this mountain was then problematic. Today, the standard southern ascent route was then closed by the authorities of Nepal , who did not want to let travelers from Western countries into their mountains. The northern route was under the control of the Tibetan authorities, and they also put obstacles to foreigners. At that time, Tibet was actively involved in the so-called The Big Game is the struggle between the Russian and British empires for dominance in Central Asia . It was necessary to use the influence of the government of British India on the Dalai Lama XIII , who then headed the Tibetan state, in order to obtain permission for the expedition.

The main drawback of the northern ascent route is the very limited time between the end of winter and the beginning of the monsoon rainy season, which any expedition must meet. At the same time, it took a long time to reach the foot of the Jomolungma. To get from Darjeeling in northern India via Sikkim to Tibet, one had to go through high-altitude and long snow-covered passes in the vicinity of Mount Kanchenjunga . But this was only the first stage. After it was a long journey along the Arun River valley to the Rongbuk Glacier , located on the northern wall of the Jomolungma. It was possible to deliver goods on horses, donkeys, yaks, and also with the help of porters hired from local residents.

As a result, the expedition could arrive at Chomolungma only at the end of April, and it had 6-8 weeks before the monsoons, which began in June. And in these weeks it was necessary to go through high-altitude acclimatization , set up camps and make the ascent itself.

This expedition was preceded by two other British expeditions to Chomolungma. The first, a 1921 reconnaissance expedition led by leading climber Harold Raeburn, described a potential route through the entire Northeast Ridge. After George Mallory proposed a longer, but, in his opinion, less difficult ascent route: through the North Saddle , then along the North Ridge to the Northeast Ridge, and then to the top. A reconnaissance expedition also opened a passage to the base of the North Saddle through East Rongbuk. Thus, the specific route of the upcoming ascent was explored and adopted. In the next expedition of 1922, several attempts were made to go through it. After that expedition, lack of time and funding did not allow the expedition to Jomolungma in 1923. The Jomolungma Committee then lost £ 700 due to the bankruptcy of Simla Bank . Because the third expedition was postponed to 1924. ^{[2] [3]}

Like the two previous British expeditions to Chomolungma, the 1924 expedition was planned, organized and funded by the Royal Geographical Society and the Alpine Club . But the main contribution was made by Captain John Noel, who, in exchange, acquired all the copyrights of the expedition.

An important difference from previous expeditions was the change in the role of porters. The 1922 expedition found that some of them can quickly master the skills of climbers and reach high altitudes. In the amended climbing strategy, the Sherpas were no longer considered as low-skilled auxiliary workers; their participation was assumed to be on an equal footing with European climbers. Relationships of the type “Mr. - Porter” were replaced by “professional - client”, and the local Sherpas could be a really experienced professional climber, and the weaker participant in mountaineering was his “client”. This led to success much later, in 1953 , when climbing partners who came in the same bundle - New Zealander Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay - made their first confirmed ascent to the top of the Jomolungma. ^[2]

As in 1922, oxygen expeditions were used on this expedition. Over the past two years, technical improvements have been made to oxygen equipment, but its reliability has remained insufficient, and there was still no agreement on whether or not to use it at all. The discussion about oxygen devices that began then continues to this day. But now the main arguments of opponents of artificial oxygen are not technical problems with oxygen equipment, but considerations of “sports honesty” in mountaineering: if we consider climbing the Homolungma and other eight-thousanders as a sports competition, then each participant should rely only on the strength and capabilities of his own body, but Do not resort to technical mitigating effects of height.

The expedition was led by General Charles Granville Bruce , who also led the 1922 expedition. He was responsible for providing equipment, gear and supplies, hiring porters and choosing a mountain route.

The selection of participants in the climbing group has become a challenge. Because of the consequences of World War I, a whole generation of strong young men was lacking. Members of previous expeditions - George Mallory, Howard Somervell ( Eng. Howard Somervell ), Edward Norton and Geoffrey Bruce ( Geoffrey Bruce ) - went to Chomolungma again. George Finch , who set an altitude record in 1922, was again invited, but could not participate in this expedition, because he was divorced and earned money by lectures. In addition, he was opposed by the influential Arthur Hinks , secretary of the Jomolungma Committee, who believed that in order to maintain the morale of the nation, the Australian , not the British, should not be allowed to become a pioneer in the Jomolungma. At first, Mallory refused to go back to Jomolungma without Finch, and agreed only at the personal request of the British royal family , which, in turn, Hink asked for assistance. ^[four]

Among the new members of the expedition can be noted Noel Odell ( Eng. Noel Odell ) ^[5] Bentley Bentham ( Eng. Bentley Beetham ) and John de Vere Hazard ( John de Vere Hazard ). Andrew “Sandy” Irwin, an engineering student whom Odell knew from the expedition to Svalbard , received the nickname “Experiment” on the expedition - it was a test of “young blood” on the slopes of Jomolungma. Thanks to his technical qualifications, Irwin was able to improve oxygen devices: increase their capacity and, moreover, reduce weight. He also carried out numerous repairs of oxygen and other equipment of the expedition.

The expedition members were selected not only for climbing qualities; The status of their families, their army experience, or university degrees also played a role in the selection process. Military service was important for public image and newspapers. Thus, Richard B. Graham , who was born in Quaker education, was born in 1893, and studied at the Bootham School in York ( 1906-1910 ) - he was also initially selected, but then he refused, having heard that some members of the expedition do not want to go to the mountains with a man who refused to take up arms during the war ^[6] .

List of expedition members (except porters)

Because The Kingdom of Nepal was closed to foreigners, until World War II, all British expeditions could approach the Chomolungme only from the north. In 1921, Mallory saw a possible route from the North Saddle to the summit. The North Saddle was supposed to be reached along the East Rongbuk Valley. Then the path to the top ran along the windy ridges of the Jomolungma (Northern ridge, Northeast ridge). But the path along the Northeast Ridge at an altitude of 8605 m above sea level blocks a steep, in some places almost steep, slope of the Second step 30 meters high. In 1924, it had not yet been studied, and it was not known how difficult it would be to overcome it.

In late February 1924, Charles and Jeffrey Bruce, Norton, and Shebbar arrived in Darjeeling , where they picked up porters from local Tibetan sherpas . They again hired Tibetan-born Karma Paul as a translator and Gyalzen as a sardar (porters leader), and also purchased food and supplies. By the end of March, the entire expedition was assembled and set off on the road to Chomolungme. She followed the same route as the expeditions of 1921 and 1922.

In order not to overload the roadside hotels, the expedition members were divided into two groups. In early April, they arrived in Chomo , on April 5th they were in Pagri Dzong. After an agreement with the Tibetan authorities, the main party of the expedition proceeded along the already known route to Gamba Dzong . At the same time, Charles Bruce and a smaller group chose an easier route. Then Bruce fell ill with malaria and was forced to transfer the command of the expedition to his deputy Norton. On April 23, the expedition reached Shekar Dzong , on the 28th arrived in Rongbuk Monastery , located several kilometers from the site of the planned base camp. The llama of the monastery was also ill at this time, and could neither speak with the expedition members and porters, nor hold a puja ceremony . The next day, the expedition was already at the base camp site in the Rongbuk Valley at the edge of the glacier. The weather was nice on the way to Chomolungme, but now it has become cold and snowy.

The locations of the mountain camps were chosen before the start of the expedition. Camp I (5400 m above sea level) was made as a transition camp at the entrance from the valley of the East Rongbuk glacier to the main valley. Camp II (about 6000 m) was another transition camp located halfway to Camp III , an advanced base camp at an altitude of 6400 m , a kilometer from the icy slopes of the North Saddle.

About 150 porters delivered supplies from the base camp to the advanced base camp, receiving about a shilling per day for this work. Carrying work was completed in the first week of May.

Further climbing was delayed due to a blizzard. ^[3]

On May 15, expedition members received the blessings of a llama at Rongbuk Monastery. The weather began to improve, and on May 19, Norton, Mallory, Somerwell and Odell arrived at Camp III . A day later, they began to fasten the ropes on the icy slopes of the North Saddle, and on May 21 they set up Camp IV at an altitude of 7000 m.

But weather conditions worsened again. John de Vir Hazard remained in Camp IV on the North Saddle with twelve porters and small food supplies. In the end, Hazard was able to descend from there, but only eight porters came with him. The remaining four porters became ill and were unable to walk back; Norton, Mallory and Somerwell had to save them.

The entire expedition returned to Camp I. There, 15 porters, who showed the greatest strength and skill, were selected in a special group and called "tigers" ^{[2] [3]} .

It was tentatively planned that Mallory and Bruce would make the first attempt to reach the top of the Jomolungma; after them a chance will be given to Somerwell and Norton. Odell and Irwin will support climbing groups in Camp IV on the North Saddle, and Hazard will be in Camp III for the same purpose. On the third day, people from the reserve team will also go to support.

The first and second attempts to climb were carried out without the use of oxygen devices. ^[3]

First Attempt: Mallory and Bruce

On June 1, 1924, Mallory, Bruce, and nine Tiger porters began their ascent from the North Saddle. Camp IV , from which they emerged, was located in a relatively sheltered place, about 50 meters below the edge of the Northern saddle, in a wind shadow. But as soon as they left this shelter and climbed onto the saddle, they were immediately struck by a strong icy wind. Before this party was able to set Camp V at 7,700 meters, four porters dropped the load and turned back. While Mallory was setting up the grounds for the tents, Bruce and one “tiger” dragged things thrown by those porters into the camp.

The next day, three more “tigers” refused to climb higher, and the attempt to climb was aborted. As a result, Camp VI , which was planned to be located at an altitude of 8170 m above sea level. has not been installed. Going back to Camp IV , the first climbing group met Norton and Somerwell, who climbed up to meet them. They just started their second attempt at climbing. ^{[2] [3]}

Second Attempt: Norton and Somerwell

The second attempt to climb the summit was made on June 2 by Norton, Somerwell and six porters. They were amazed to see Mallory and Bruce returning to the camp so early, and thought about their porters: would they also escape, would they refuse to continue the ascent after Camp V. These fears were partially justified when two porters were sent "home" to Camp IV . But the other four porters and two Englishmen spent the night in Camp V. And the next day, three of those porters delivered the necessary materials for the installation of Camp VI at the planned location - in a small niche at an altitude of 8170 m above sea level. After these porters were sent back to Camp IV

June 4 at 6:40 a.m. (later than planned) Norton and Somerwell were able to move on. Drinking water poured out of the bottle, and had to melt the snow in order to refill it. But a liter of water per person was too little for such an ascent. Affected by the lack of climbing experience. But the weather was perfect.

Climbing the North Ridge another 200 meters, they decided to diagonally cross the North Wall. But without oxygen devices at such an altitude, Norton and Somerwell were exhausted and often had to stop and rest. At about noon, Somerwell could no longer continue the ascent. Norton continued on his own and walked through a deep gorge to the eastern foot of the pyramid peak. This gorge was later named after him - Norton Couloir ( Eng. Norton Couloir ); Another name is Big Couloir.

Staying on the road, Somerwell then made one of the most famous photographs in the history of mountaineering. In the photo - Norton, trying to overcome a steep icy slope, on which only in some places you can see islands of freshly fallen snow. It was already at an altitude of 8570 meters above sea level - the maximum height taken by Norton in his entire life. And this then became the world record for the ascent , which then remained unsurpassed for another 28 years - until the expedition in 1952 Lambert Raymond ( FR. Lambert Raymond ) and Tenzing Norgay did not reach a height of 8611 meters on the south side of the Jomolungma. ^[7]

Less than 280 meters were left to the top vertically when Norton decided to return due to the increasing difficulty of passing the terrain, lack of time and doubts about his remaining strength. At two in the afternoon he returned to Somerwell, and they began to descend together. Somerwell's throat was severely seized, and he could no longer walk, sat down and waited for death. In a desperate last attempt, he squeezed his chest with his hands - and he managed to spit out a liquid that did not allow him to breathe. After that, Somerwell was able to get up and followed after Norton, who was already a 30-minute walk in front of him and did not know what had happened to his comrade.

When Norton and Somerwell descended below Camp V , it was already dark, but they did not interrupt the descent and managed to reach Camp IV . Там их встретил Мэллори и предложил им кислородные баллоны. Но Нортону и Сомервеллу больше всего хотелось сначала испить воды.

На протяжении ночи Мэллори обсуждал с Нортоном (исполняющим обязанности руководителя экспедиции) их дальнейшие планы. Мэллори предложил себя и Ирвина для осуществления последней попытки покорения вершины, а также предложил использовать кислород. ^{[2] [3]}

Третья попытка: Мэллори и Ирвин

В то время, когда Сомервелл и Нортон шли к вершине, Мэллори и Брюс успели спуститься в Лагерь III (продвинутый базовый лагерь) и вернуться на Северное седло (в Лагерь IV), принеся с собой кислородные баллоны. Мэллори сам выбрал Ирвина своим партнёром для восхождения. Because Нортон был исполняющим обязанности руководителя экспедиции из-за болезни Брюса, а Мэллори был ведущим альпинистом, Нортон решил принять план Мэллори, несмотря на то, что Ирвин не имел опыта восхождений на такие большие высоты. Ирвин не был выбран заранее по его альпинистским способностям; бо́льшую роль сыграл его практический технический опыт обращения с кислородными приборами. Кроме того, Мэллори и Ирвин стали настоящими друзьями, проведя много времени вместе на корабле, привезшем их в Индию. Мэллори считал, что хорошо сложенный 22-летний Ирвин «силён как бык».

5 июня они ещё были в Лагере IV . В 8:40 следующего дня Мэллори, Ирвин и пять носильщиков дошли до Лагеря V , а 7 июня – до Лагеря VI . Оделл и ещё один носильщик также прибыли в Лагерь V для поддержки группы восхождения; вскоре после их прибытия туда, четверо носильщиков из группы Мэллори спустились вниз. Мэллори их отпустил и передал с ними сообщение Оделлу об ожидаемом времени прибытия на гребень.

Уважаемый Ноэль!

Мы, вероятно, стартуем рано утром завтра (8-го), пока погода ясная. Стартовать не может быть слишком рано; нам ещё предстоит пройти нагромождение скал под пирамидой или дойти до линии горизонта в 8 вечера.

Всегда Ваш,

Дж. Мэллори

Оригинальный текст (англ.)

Dear Noel,

'We'll probably start early to-morrow (8th) in order to have clear weather. It won't be too early to start looking out for us either crossing the rockband under the pyramid or going up skyline at 8.0 pm

Yours ever

G Mallory

(Мэллори реально имел в виду 8 утра, а не вечера) ^{[2] [8]} .

Утром 8 июня Оделл начал подниматься в гору, чтобы провести геологические исследования. Гора была покрыта туманами, и он не мог чётко видеть Северо-Восточный гребень, по которому Мэллори и Ирвин намеревались идти.

На высоте 7900 м Оделл нашёл небольшой выход горных пород на поверхность. В 12:50 туман внезапно рассеялся, и Оделл записал в своём дневнике, что он видел Мэллори и Ирвина немного ниже Северо-Восточного гребня, когда они достигли основания Второй ступени – и преодолели его примерно за 5 минут. ^[9] В своём первом отчёте, напечатанном в « The Times » 5 июля 1924 года, он более подробно описал то, что видел. Оделл видел вершину, гребень и верхнюю пирамиду Джомолунгмы. Его взгляд зацепился за маленькую чёрную точку, перемещавшуюся на фоне белого снега ниже Второй ступени. Вторая чёрная точка двигалась в сторону первой. Первая точка достигла водораздела гребня (ушла за горизонт). Он не уверен, что и вторая точка сделала это. ^[10]

По первоначальному мнению Оделла, двое альпинистов дошли до основания Второй ступени ^[11] . Он был обеспокоен тем, что Мэллори и Ирвин, кажется, отстали от своего графика на пять часов. После того, как Оделл увидел эту картину, он поднялся до Лагеря VI, где нашёл палатку в хаотическом беспорядке. В 2 часа дня начался сильный снежный шквал. Оделл вышел из палатки и попытался подать сигнал двум восходителям, чтобы они скорее возвращались в эту палатку. Оделл считал, что Мэллори и Ирвин в то время уже должны были спускаться. Оделл свистел и кричал, пока не устал и не стал замерзать на холоде, и вернулся в палатку в Лагере VI, где и переждал шквал. Шквал закончился в 4 часа дня. Оделл снова вышел и стал осматривать Джомолунгму в поисках Мэллори и Ирвина – но уже не увидел никого…

В Лагере VI была только одна палатка, и в ней могли спать не более двух человек. Потому Оделл покинул этот высотный лагерь в 16:30, и в 18:45 пришёл в Лагерь IV . Там также ничего не знали о судьбе Мэллори и Ирвина, и не получили никаких сигналов от восходителей. На следующий день Оделл с двумя носильщиками снова пошёл наверх. Примерно в 15:30 они дошли до Лагеря V , где остались на ночь. А утром Оделл в одиночку пошёл в Лагерь VI (высота 8170), в котором он не увидел никаких изменений, никаких признаков того, что Мэллори и Ирвин снова побывали там. Оделл поднялся ещё немного выше, до высоты 8200 метров – но и оттуда не узрел никаких следов пропавших альпинистов. Спустившись в Лагерь VI , Оделл взял находящиеся там в палатке два спальных мешка – и положил их перпендикулярно друг другу, буквой «Т». Это был условный знак, сигнал для людей, находящихся в продвинутом базовом лагере, означавший: «Следов не нашёл, остаётся надежда, жду распоряжений». После чего Оделл опять спустился в Лагерь IV .

Утром 11 июня все участники экспедиции покинули Лагерь IV и стали спускаться с Северного седла. Экспедиция подходила к концу. Ещё через пять дней она снова была в монастыре Ронгбук, где попрощалась с ламой монастыря. ^{[2] [3]}

Участники экспедиции установили памятный тур в честь всех людей, погибших на Джомолунгме в 1920-х годах. Мэллори и Ирвин стали национальными героями. Колледж Магдалины Кембриджского университета , в котором учился Мэллори, назвал один из своих кортов его именем и установил там монумент. Оксфордский университет установил монумент в честь Ирвина, когда-то бывшего его студентом. На церемонии в Соборе Святого Павла присутствовал сам король Георг V и другие высшие сановники, а также родные и друзья альпинистов.

Следующая экспедиция на Джомолунгму состоялась только в 1933 году. Далай-лама больше не давал разрешений на экспедиции — из-за случаев гибели шерпов в 1922 году и британцев в 1924-м, а также из-за того, что британцы охотились на диких животных в верховьях Долины Ронгбук — а это противоречило буддистским законам.

Ответ на вопрос о том, удалось ли Мэллори и Ирвину (или хотя бы одному из них) подняться на вершину Джомолунгмы, пока что остаётся неизвестным. Также не установлено точное время и место смерти каждого из них, и не ясно, какой максимальной высоты над уровнем моря они достигли на этой попытке восхождения, превзошли ли рекорд Эдварда Нортона.

В последующие годы предпринималось немало попыток найти вещественные свидетельства, проливающие свет на тайну гибели Мэллори и Ирвина. В 1933 году был найден ледоруб Ирвина и некоторые другие артефакты экспедиции 1924 года. В 1999 году на Джомолунгме было обнаружено тело Мэллори, а тело Ирвина не обнаружено до сих пор. Осуществлялись и опытные реконструкции: попытки прохождения маршрута Мэллори и Ирвина в такой же одежде и с таким же альпинистским снаряжением, которое у них имелось в 1920-х годах, одно успешное преодоление Второй ступени свободным скалолазанием (без помощи лестниц). Исследования продолжаются; планируется обследование верхних склонов Джомолунгмы с помощью высотных беспилотников и новые экспедиции с целью обнаружения тела Ирвина, фотоаппаратов Мэллори и Ирвина и других вещественных доказательств. Загадка 1924 года ещё может быть разрешена.

• Хронология покорения Джомолунгмы
• Британская экспедиция на Джомолунгму (1922)
• Мэллори, Джордж
• Ирвин, Эндрю Сэнди Конвин

• Mount Everest Expedition 1924 Images (англ.) . Фотографии экспедиции и её артефактов на сайте КГО .

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