Vogue (pronounced vogue , from the French - “fashion”) is a women 's fashion magazine , published since 1892 by the publishing house Condé Nast Publications .
| Vogue | |
|---|---|
Vogue May 1983 | |
| Specialization | fashion magazine |
| Periodicity | monthly |
| Tongue | English Italian French Russian Deutsch Chinese Korean Spanish Japanese Polish Greek Slovak |
| Chief Editor | |
| A country | |
| Publisher | Condé nast publications |
| Established | December 17, 1892 |
| Web site | http://www.vogue.com |
Content
History
The first issue of the magazine, a public weekly created for wealthy New Yorkers, was released in 1892 . The names of most of the 250 shareholders were published in the Secular Almanac; among them were Cornelius Vanderbilt (the first dollar multimillionaire), Styovesant Fish (CEO of the Illinois Central Railway), Duke Percy Morgan and others. The new magazine was founded by Arthur Tyurnyur, a young member of a secular society from a wealthy family who already had journalistic experience, and Harry Makvikar, whose great-grandfather Stefan Whitney was a large wholesaler. Turnyur became a publisher, and Makvikar, who studied art in Europe, became the art director of Vogue. At first the weekly consisted of 16 in-quarto pages [1] , however it was well-printed and beautifully designed. The cover was adorned with one of the exquisite pictures that became popular thanks to Life magazine, which posted humorous dialogs beneath them. The price of one copy - ten cents - allowed a person with an average income to buy a magazine and find out what was happening in society.
The weekly was positioned as noteworthy, a real magazine that talks about society, fashion and lifestyle. The first issue published a story written by Thomas Jenvier, but fiction did not find its permanent place in the publication. The magazine was well illustrated, and there were also sketches of costumes, although, as one observer noted, images of clothes worn by energetic people were not so fashionable in the conventional sense. Generally speaking, from the first issue it became clear that this is not just another magazine about women's fashion, but a restrained and respectable publication about fashionable New York . Despite restraint, Vogue was a first-class magazine, and respectability distinguished him from such sensational publications for secular society as Town Topics. The magazine published about theaters, concerts, art exhibitions and some new books.
Publisher Change
New life in the magazine was breathed in by Nast, Conde Montrose Nast , who bought it in 1909 and laid the foundation for his purchase by the purchase of this magazine - Condé Nast Publications . After that, the magazine was transformed: completely reoriented to fashion, abandoning literary pages, sharply increased its volume, the cover once and for all became color. Edna Chase was appointed to the post of chief editor, although she did not have a journalistic education. , worked in the publication since its opening. She served as editor in chief from 1914 to 1951 and left him of her own free will at the age of 74.
In 1932, Vogue first posted a color photograph on the cover. Since that period, the best recognized photographers of the world have collaborated with the magazine. Vogue surprisingly was a pioneer in the field of illustration techniques. It was in it for the first time that they began: to place photographs on expanded pages, to place color photographs on the cover, to crop pages with photographs to the edge, without leaving fields .
After Conde Nast’s death in 1942, the publishing house was managed for some time by his friend Lord Camrose, and in 1959 Conde Nast was bought out by newspaper magnate Sam Newhouse.
1960s - 1980s
In the 60s of the twentieth century, under the leadership of the chief editor Diana Vreeland, Vogue became one of the most influential fashion magazines. The models that appeared on its pages - Suzy Parker, Twiggy , Penelope Three - became real celebrities.
In the 70s, the magazine began to appear once a month. The magazine’s target audience has also changed - they were no longer housewives dreaming of a better life in the kitchen, but business women hurrying to work every morning. Thus, most of the journal’s articles changed subjects.
In 1972, Grace Mirabella became editor, and the magazine is now published only once a month. Many people call this period of Vogue's life “beige years”. Grace Mirabella tried to bring the contents of the fashion magazine to the style of an ordinary American. As a result, the circulation of the publication increased, but its credibility decreased markedly. . In October 1988, Grace was fired.
Present
Grace Mirabella was replaced by Anna Wintour , who is the editor to date. From the very beginning of her work at Vogue (since 1988), she has been working to maintain Vogue's reputation as the number 1 fashion magazine in the world. In addition, Wintour tried to maximize the audience of the magazine, focusing on the fact that high fashion is available to everyone, and not just to the elite. For the first time she began to combine high fashion with simple things (for example, with jeans) and in every possible way to promote a mixture of classes. So, on the cover of the first issue of the magazine, released under her leadership, was a full-length photograph of the model (most of Wintour's predecessors placed only the model’s face on the cover) in frayed jeans and a Christian Lacroix jacket embroidered with precious stones. In addition, during the collaboration with Anna Wintour, the company refused to work with too young and too thin models, thereby introducing naturalness into the trend . As Diana Vreeland predicted the era of supermodels, so Anna predicted the development of the cult of celebrities, for the first time placing on the cover not a professional model, but a star. But, despite all its advantages, Anna’s work is connected with several scandals.
The character and style of government of the fifth chief editor of American Vogue is described in a book published in 2003 by former assistant Anna Loren Weisberger , on which the film "The Devil Wears Prada" was subsequently made. It is difficult to say how much truth and fiction are in the film and the book, only Anna Wintour herself came to Prada for the premiere, as the devil should . And in 2007, she decided to make a movie about Vogue and herself. So in 2009, the premiere of the documentary “ September issue ” about the thickest issue in the history of the publication took place. In 2012, another documentary film “Vogue: Through the Eyes of the Editor” was released , which tells about the moments of the visual and historical contribution of Vogue editors, in the past and present, which were made not only by the magazine, but also by the world of fashion.
Vogue is released in 25 countries: Australia , Brazil , China , France , Germany , India , Italy , Japan , Republic of Korea , Mexico , Portugal , Russia , Spain , Taiwan , Netherlands , Turkey , United Kingdom , USA , Ukraine , Thailand , United Arab Emirates (for Middle East, in Arabic), Poland , Greece , Czech Republic , Slovakia
Condé Nast Publications also currently publishes Men's Vogue (a fashion magazine for men), Teen Vogue (a teen-oriented magazine), Vogue Living, and Vogue Entertaining + Travel (only available in Australia ).
Editors in Chief
- Edna Woolman Chase (1914-1951)
- Jessica Davis (1952-1962)
- Yakovleva Anastasia Gemois (1952-1962)
- Diana Vreeland (1963 - June 1971)
- Grace Mirabella (July 1971 - October 1988)
- Anna Wintour (November 1988 - until now)
Vogue in Russia
In Russia, Vogue has been published since 1998. The cover of the first issue was filmed by Mario Testino , and supermodels Kate Moss and Amber Valletta decorated it. The chief editor until 2010 was Alena Doletskaya . [2] . From July 2010 to January 2018, Victoria Davydova was the chief editor of Vogue Russia, who began her career in the Russian version of Vogue [3] . Tatyana Sorokko , Victor Pelevin , Andrey Plakhov , Lyudmila Ulitskaya and others collaborated with the magazine. In February 2018, Maria Fedorova was appointed to the post of chief editor.
At the end of 2010, the Russian National Circulation Service (NTS) accused the editorial board of the magazine (and the management of five more publications) that the publication intentionally overestimates the stated circulation several times, "which allows them to attract more advertising than their bona fide competitors" [4] .
Notes
- ↑ In-quarto (from Latin in quarto - in the fourth part of a sheet) - the format of publications in which the page size is equal to 1/4 of the paper sheet. 4 in-quarto pages can be printed on one side of the sheet.
- ↑ Breaking news of the hour | Culture and show business | RIA Novosti news feed
- ↑ Victoria Davydova (unavailable link) . Date of treatment September 1, 2010. Archived August 24, 2011.
- ↑ circulation bubble