Rock Master is an international climbing competition held annually in Arco ( Italy ). Competitors are selected by world rating (8 in difficulty and 6 in bouldering). Since 2012, athletes with an international license can enter the competition according to the results of preliminary open selection (Rock Master Open) [1] .
Unlike ordinary competitions, in which athletes climb the track without prior testing, the difficulties are held in the after-hours format (passing the route after preliminary work on it).
Content
History
The history of Rock Master is associated with one of the first international climbing competitions. In 1985, the right to host the first international climbing competitions was challenged by the Sportroccia tournament in Bardonecchia . The following year, the venue was Colodri of Arc. The first Rock Master tournament was held right on Colodri Rock in 1987. From next year, competitions on the rocks were no longer held, and from that moment the tournament always took place in the same place on a large open stand at the base of Colodri.
Since 1999, in addition to competitions in difficulty , competitions have also been held in the disciplines of bouldering and speed .
Since 2003, the Rock Master Junior competitions: Rock Junior and Rock Kids , as well as competitions of the Family Rock families have also been held.
Since 2006, during the event, the jury awards two Arco Rock Legends awards - Oscar's analogues in climbing:
- Salewa Rock Award - the athlete who completed the best route on the rocks and bouldering.
- La Sportiva Competition Award - an athlete who performed in the previous season.
In 2011, in Arco, within the framework of the 11th World Climbing Championship, the first World Climbing Championship was held in the disciplines of difficulty and speed among athletes with disabilities in 7th grade [2] .
Competitions are usually held on the first weekend of September with some exceptions:
- In 2010, the tournament was postponed to July and was held as a preparatory competition before the World Cup, which took place in 2011. Instead of the usual two stages (testing and viewing), the competitions were held according to the classical scheme with three stages: qualification, semi-final and final .
- In 2011, instead of Rock Master, the World Championship was held in Arco in July. A record number of athletes and countries took part in the competition, more than 35,000 spectators were present [3] . The Rock Master title, however, was awarded based on the results of the Duel, an exhibition competition that was held after the end of the World Championship among the top 16 men and women in difficulty.
In 2012, the results of speed competitions were considered as the fourth stage of the World Cup.
Winners
Difficulty
| Year | Men | Women |
|---|---|---|
| 1987 | Germany Stefan Gloachach | USA Lynn Hill |
| 1988 | Germany Stefan Gloachach | USA Lynn Hill |
| 1989 | France Didier Work | USA Lynn Hill |
| 1990 | France Francois Legrand | USA Lynn Hill |
| 1991 | Japan Yuji Hiroyama | France Isabelle Patissier |
| 1992 | Germany Stefan Gloachach | USA Lynn Hill |
| 1993 | Switzerland Eli Chevier | Switzerland Susie Goode |
| 1994 | France Francois Legrand | USA Robin Herbesfield |
| 1995 | France Francois Lombard | France Lawrence Guyon |
| 1996 | France Francois Lombard | USA Katie Brown |
| 1997 | France Francois Legrand | USA Katie Brown |
| 1998 | France Francois Legrand | France Liv Sanzos |
| 1999 | Russia Evgeny Ovchinnikov | Belgium Muriel Sarkani |
| 2000 | Russia Evgeny Ovchinnikov | Belgium Muriel Sarkani |
| 2001 | Germany Christian Bindhammer Czech Republic Tomasz Mrazek Japan Yuji Hiroyama | Belgium Muriel Sarkani Slovenia Martina Kufar |
| 2002 | France Alexander Chabot | France Sandrine Leve |
| 2003 | France Alexander Chabot | Austria Angela Aiter |
| 2004 | France Alexander Chabot | Austria Angela Aiter |
| 2005 | Spain Ramon Julian Pigblanc | Austria Angela Aiter |
| 2006 | Spain Ramon Julian Pigblanc | France Sandrine Leve |
| 2007 | Spain Ramon Julian Pigblanc | Austria Angela Aiter |
| 2008 | Spain Patches Usobiaga | Austria Johanna Ernst |
| 2009 | Spain Ramon Julian Pigblanc | Austria Angela Aiter |
| 2010 | Spain Ramon Julian Pigblanc | Republic of Korea Kim Ja In |
| 2011 | - | - |
| 2012 | Spain Ramon Julian Pigblanc | Austria Angela Aiter |
| 2013 | Spain Ramon Julian Pigblanc | Slovenia Mina Markovic |
Bouldering
| Year | Men | Women |
|---|---|---|
| 1999 | Spain Daniel Andrada | Russia Elena Shumilova |
| 2000 | Poland Tomasz Oleksi | Russia Natalya Novikova |
| 2001 | Russia Salavat Rakhmetov | France Corinne Theroux |
| 2002 | Italy Mauro Calibani | Russia Olga Yakovleva |
| 2003 | Italy Mauro Calibani | Russia Olga Bibik |
| 2004 | Switzerland Matthias Muller | France Melanie Son |
| 2005 | Austria Kilian Fishhuber | France Melanie Son |
| 2006 | Finland Nalle Hookcataille | Austria Anna Stor |
| 2007 | Great Britain Gareth Parry | Austria Anna Stor |
| 2008 | Austria Kilian Fishhuber | Austria Katarina Saurwein |
| 2009 | Austria Kilian Fishhuber | France Alizi Dufres |
| 2010 | Switzerland Cedric Lachat | Austria Anna Stor |
| 2011 | - | - |
| 2012 | Russia Dmitry Sharafudinov | USA Alex Puccio |
| 2013 | Russia Rustam Gelmanov | USA Alex Puccio |
Speed
| Year | Men | Women |
|---|---|---|
| 1999 | Ukraine Vladimir Zakharov | |
| 2000 | Russia Alexey Gadeev | |
| 2001 | Russia Jacob Subbotin | |
| 2002 | Poland Tomasz Oleksi | |
| 2003 | Russia Alexey Gadeev | |
| 2004 | Poland Tomasz Oleksi | |
| 2005 | Poland Tomasz Oleksi | |
| 2006 | Russia Sergey Sinitsyn | |
| 2007 | Russia Evgeny Vaytsekhovsky | |
| 2008 | Venezuela Manuel Escobar | Ukraine Elena Repko |
| 2009 | Czech Republic Libor Thunderstorm | Poland Edita Ropeck |
| 2010 | Czech Republic Libor Thunderstorm | China He Tsuilian |
| 2011 | - | - |
| 2012 | Italy Leonardo Gontero | Russia Alina Gaydamakina |
| 2013 | Czech Republic Libor Thunderstorm | Russia Alina Gaydamakina |
Duel
| Year | Men | Women |
|---|---|---|
| 2011 | Czech Republic Adam Ondra | Russia Yana Chereshneva |
| 2012 | Austria Jacob Schubert | Russia Dinara Fakhridinova |
| 2013 | Canada Sean McCall | Russia Dinara Fakhridinova |
Arco Rock Legends
| Year | Salewa rock award | La sportiva competition award |
|---|---|---|
| 2006 | Spain Hosune Beriziartu | Austria Angela Aiter |
| 2007 | Spain Patches Usobiaga | Austria David Lama |
| 2008 | Czech Republic Chris Sharma | Slovenia Maya Widmar |
| 2009 | Chris Sharma | Austria Kilian Fishhuber |
| 2010 | Czech Republic Adam Ondra | Japan Akiyo Noguchi |
| 2011 | Czech Republic Adam Ondra | Spain Ramon Julian Pigblanc |
| 2012 | Sasha Didjulian | Austria Anna Stor |
| 2013 | Czech Republic Adam Ondra | Slovenia Mina Markovic |