“Red Moscow” - women’s perfumes famous in Soviet times produced by the Moscow factory “ New Dawn ” (before the revolution - “ Brokar and Co ”). They contain more than 60 components, the official description of perfumes says: “Subtle, warm, noble aroma with a touch of orange blossom ” [1] . Rudolf Arkadievich Fridman in his book “Perfumes”, edition of 1955, writes: “Red Moscow - is associated with graceful warmth, playful and flirtatious languor, melodic, plastic melody” [2] , “spirits of“ Red Moscow “, basically representing the violet complex, which is quite sentimental in smell, but which, thanks to a change in timbre and the introduction of a number of harmonizing substances, has received a special beauty and richness of smell ” [3] ,“ Perfumes “Red Moscow“, consisting of a mixture of the basics of iris, violet, cloves for perfection ( akrugleniya) of all of these primary materials, and to enhance their thin odor require significant proportion jasmine essences " [4] . Renata Litvinova describes them as “sugary, concentrated ... giving birth to a feeling of normal healthy nostalgia” [5] . In 1958, they won a prize at the world exhibition in Brussels .
The fragrance “Empress’s Favorite Bouquet” was created for Empress Maria Fedorovna by the son of a French soap maker Augustus Michel on the occasion of the 300th anniversary of the Romanov dynasty , which was celebrated in 1913 [6] [7] . According to one version, the French perfume L'Origan Coty of 1905 was taken as the basis [8] . The production of aroma was resumed by the Novaya Zorya factory in 1925 under the name Red Moscow. The “Empress’s favorite bouquet” in the sources is often confused with the old aroma “Empress Bouquet”, which was developed by the supplier of the imperial court Heinrich Brokar (1836-1900) no later than 1882 [9] .
According to a less popular version, the perfume "Red Moscow" was created in the mid-1920s. with the participation of Polina Zhemchuzhina (wife of the future Commissar V. M. Molotov ) and are not directly related to pre-revolutionary aromas, since at that time the corresponding ingredients were not yet used in perfumery [10] .
The urban legend about the special similarity of the fragrances “Red Moscow” and “ Chanel No. 5 ” is also widespread. At the same time, either Soviet perfumes are interpreted as an attempt by the Soviet perfume industry to copy the famous French aroma, or it is claimed that the French aroma was synthesized by Ernest Bo (who worked in Moscow before the revolution) based on the Empress’s Bouquet [9] .
At the end of February 2019, on the basis of legends, cultural myths and stereotypes about “Red Moscow”, an account [11] dedicated to spirits appeared on the social network Instagram in the Soviet and post-Soviet society on the social network Instagram. The account can be classified as an art project designed to integrate a vintage flavor into a modern context.
Notes
- ↑ Chemistry and Life, 1973, No. 4. P. 78, article “The Flying Prisoner”.
- ↑ Friedman R.A. Perfumes, Pishchepromizdat, 1955, p. 63-71.
- ↑ Friedman R.A. Perfumes, Pishchepromizdat, 1955, p. 95–97.
- ↑ Friedman R.A. Perfumes, Pishchepromizdat, 1955, p. 101-103.
- ↑ Worship of the smell . B-money. Date of treatment April 18, 2013. Archived April 22, 2013.
- ↑ Catalog of the New Dawn factory (inaccessible link) . Date of treatment April 17, 2013. Archived April 27, 2012.
- ↑ O. Derkach, V.V. Bykov. Book of the century. Vagrius, 2000.
- ↑ Perfumes and perfumers . Date of treatment April 18, 2013.
- ↑ 1 2 The first secret is Chanel No. 5 . B-money. Date of treatment April 18, 2013. Archived April 22, 2013.
- ↑ Perfumes “Red Moscow”: the aroma of a legend . Date of treatment April 18, 2013. Archived April 22, 2013.
- ↑ Red Moscow (@red_moskva) • Photos and videos on Instagram . www.instagram.com. Date of treatment March 23, 2019.
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