Large - sized trees are mature trees (from three to fifteen meters in height) used for planting for economic and decorative purposes. Trees are an indispensable element of landscaping . Plants with a developed crown are considered large-sized, even if their height is below the specified minimum mark.
Planting of large-sized plants is carried out in stages:
- preparation of large-sized for transplantation in the nursery. Digging up a large size, packing a coma and preparing for transportation. Particular attention is paid to the quality of the packaging, otherwise, the plant may die during transportation. If necessary, processing is carried out with additional tools and trimming is performed;
- transportation. Krupnomerov install in the car, strengthen, observing all safety measures. Deliver to the place of landing;
- creation of conditions for the temporary storage of large-sized crops until they are planted. Shelter of the root system, digging (in case of sale from the trading floor);
- large-sized planting. Landing in pre-prepared landing pits or trenches;
- care for planted trees.
Thus, planting large-sized plants is a complex and multi-stage process. But without mature trees, the terrain looks inferior and unformed. Trees are the best material for landscaping, as they can be used to create any composition: a grove, a small forest, an alley, a coniferous corner, parkland and reinforcing stripes, and much more. And the method of planting large-sized plants is the opportunity to enjoy the picturesque landscape after the implementation of planting work.
Content
- 1 Planting large-sized
- 1.1 Dates and methods of landing
- 1.2 Preservation of the decorativeness of large trees
- 1.3 Planting Technique
- 2 Preparation of landing pits
- 2.1 Landing
- 2.2 Strengthening
- 3 Care for planted large-sized
- 4 Protection of transplanted large trees from diseases and pests
- 4.1 Conifers
- 5 The use of large-sized plants in landscape gardening
- 5.1 Large sizes and styles of landscape design
- 5.2 Large sizes: single and group plantings
- 6 Literature
Planting Krupnomerov
Features of large-sized:
- They always land with a clod of earth. This is due to the fact that when transplanting a large plant needs a lot of roots , and to save the main root mass and not injure its suction zone is possible only in an earthen coma. It is believed that the landing of large-sized trees will be relatively painless if the diameter of the coma is not less than ten diameters of the trunk at the base of the tree.
- Large-sized plants are usually planted when the plants have a dormant period. In the middle latitudes, this is the period from October to March. The formation and preservation of an earthen coma in plants above 5 m is possible only at subzero air temperatures, so most trees are planted in winter. Landing during dormancy avoids shock effects and improves survival .
- When planting adult conifers, it is necessary to observe the spatial orientation of the branches the same as when digging, that is, the branches that were directed to the north during growth should also look north and when planting.
- After transplanting, the trees that have lost part of the roots are sick for a long time. The growth in the first year after transplantation can be in the range of 5-10 cm, the next year - a little more. Care requirements are increasing. There is a need for frequent watering and spraying of the crown, which increases the likelihood of mushroom diseases.
- Each type of large-sized has its own individual characteristics. For example, birch can dry the lawn around it. Willow roots often penetrate drainage systems and other underground utilities, destroying them. Such a fungal disease, like powdery mildew , strongly affects the oak oak ( Quercus robur ), while the red oak ( Quercus rubra ) is practically immune to it.
Dates and methods of landing
Large-sized plants are planted using special equipment and manually. Landing methods depend on the location of the site, whether there are access roads for bulky equipment and other factors determined by the landing specialist.
The easiest way is a crane landing. More complicated is manual landing using small-sized special equipment. The manual method of planting is more gentle, as it allows you to approach each tree individually and minimize trauma to the root system.
The advent of tree planting technologies with a lump of land has changed the concept of traditional planting seasons - spring and autumn. In principle, large-sized plants, like any plants with a closed root system, can be planted year-round, however, the most preferred season is winter. At this time, the tree is the least sensitive to external influences. Due to this, a sharp change in the environment for him will not be so critical. A lump of frozen earth does not crumble during transportation and does not require complex packaging, such as wooden, plastic or metal containers, absolutely necessary in the summer, when the lump can fall apart from the slightest shaking, and the tree left with bare roots has little chance of reaching a healthy place landing. On the other hand, frozen soil requires a lot of effort to dig up plants and prepare pits, although these problems are quite solvable.
Summer planting of trees with a lump of earth, unlike seedlings with an open root system, is also quite real. Although during the period of active vegetation and flowering, it is undesirable to plant conifers more than three meters high, and deciduous trees more than four meters high. In the summer, it is absolutely necessary to pack the coma in tight containers during transportation and up to planting, and thorough care after planting, first of all, plentiful and regular watering, shading of tree crowns or even manual removal of foliage or treatment with defoliants, treatment with root growth stimulants, treatment of root system which suffers the most from transplantation. Foliar top dressing during this period will help the tree fill up the lack of nutrients and better prepare for subsequent wintering.
Preservation of the decorativeness of large trees
When planting a garden in the summer, trees are transplanted in a leafy state to obtain an immediate and sustainable decorative effect. As a result of the extensive work carried out to date, we can definitely talk about the significant advantages of summer transplants over spring and autumn ones. In all cases, the decorative effect as early as the year of transplantation was always exceptionally high. When agrotechnical transplants were correctly carried out, taking into account all the characteristics, changes or a decrease in the decorativeness of plants, it was almost not noticeable, and with quick work, the effect was enhanced by the unusual suddenness of the change in the environment.
To more confidently obtain the desired results during summer transplants of trees and shrubs with foliage, it is necessary to take into account some biological characteristics of the rocks, expressed in the degree of resistance to preservation of their decorative advantages, as well as the influence of phases during transplantation.
The most important decorative element of three tree transplants in a leafy state is the complete preservation of the entire amount of available foliage without a sharp change in its color. When transplanting beautifully flowering breeds during preparation for flowering or during full bloom, preservation of buds and flowers is very important, and during repair, preservation of flowering continuity. Only under these conditions is the main goal of decorating plants transplanted in the summer period achieved. The application of a number of measures, which include early preparation of plants for transplantation, temporary oppression of plants after transplantation, and other measures, will greatly contribute to survival and preservation of decorativeness, also smoothing to some extent the effect of transplant timing.
Meanwhile, these measures, with all their usefulness, are laborious and not always applicable, especially with mass summer transplants. It should be noted that the foliage is conditionally taken as a decorative element. Foliage is an assimilation body that performs vital functions. The degree of its preservation after transplantation in the summer period will speak of the plasticity of the breed and its ability to quickly adapt to changing conditions, as well as the rapid survival of plants. Species can be divided into three groups according to the degree of stability in maintaining the decorativeness of foliage and flowering:
- the first group is resistant breeds;
- the second group is medium stable;
- the third group is weakly stable.
The first group includes breeds that, when transplanted with foliage and at the time of full bloom, retain their external qualities almost unchanged, create a stable and long-lasting decorative effect both in the year of transplantation and in subsequent years. With a sufficient amount of coma, transplantation in full compliance with agricultural technology, and then with regular care, such plants almost completely retain foliage and color, as well as buds or flowers. These species can be classified as local forest species: warty and fluffy birch , gray alder , goat willow , mountain ash , ash ash , ash maple , small elm , bird cherry , prickly spruce , Siberian larch .
Hungarian lilac and common lilac also have high decorative stability during summer transplants.
The second group of rocks in their biological characteristics in preserving the leaves and its color during summer cages differs from the first somewhat less stable. When transplanting from the forest, this group of local breeds includes small-leaved linden , Norway maple , forest apple , elm , large-leaved linden , horse chestnut , Siberian boho hawthorn , black poplar , Canadian , Berlin poplar .
When transplanting plants of this group in the summer, especially in the second and third periods, to obtain the desired decorative effect, it is necessary to dig a larger lump and keep it from deformation during transportation, reduce the time between digging and planting, and also provide watering. An important measure is also the selection of plants for transplantation from well-lit places and transportation in cloudy and rainy weather. Only in this way is it possible to avoid falling of leaves and a significant change in their color.
Leaf fall after transplantation, especially in the second and third and periods, is very painful for plant life in subsequent years. Shrubs and trees more slowly recover.
The third group of breeds has the following differences. With a sharp change in environmental conditions or a violation of the transplant technique, very rapid yellowing, coagulation and drying of all leaves occurs, and then partial or complete death of the ground part. This phenomenon is characteristic of cage in any of the periods. The plants of this group are united mainly by one of their most important features - the structure of the root system with a small presence of small fouling roots and lobes, which has a serious effect on the survival rate and preservation of foliage during summer transplants.
These species include: Amur velvet , cherries , plums , and from the local ones - pedunculate oak , honeysuckle and buckthorn . When transplanting trees and shrubs of this group, both from nurseries and from the forest, special precautions are required: capture of a larger volume of roots during excavation and preservation of the coma from deformation during transportation and planting; well-established and regular care for planted plants is also necessary.
When transplanting from the forest, among other things, the selection of plants from well-lit places with cohesive soils, transplantation from under the canopy of plantations is necessary, apparently, an extremely sharp change in environmental conditions plays an important role: lighting, temperature, soil and air humidity, etc.
So, during a transplant in the summer from an oak forest, its skeletal roots with a small number of fouling roots and earlobes do not provide sufficient contact with the soil of coma. With the loss of leaves after transplantation in the summer, the secondary budding of the buds occurs very slowly. Both in velvet and oak, the death of the ground part and the appearance of shoots at the stump are often observed.
Buckthorn and honeysuckle in the forest are almost always found in the undergrowth. Sudden exposure to light after transplantation usually causes the leaves to dry out and the shoots to freeze in winter, as a result of which their decorative effect is negligible.
Large adult trees are transplanted, mainly from November to March, when the ground will freeze thoroughly. Negative temperatures provide maximum rest of the root coma during transportation and planting.
Large Planting Technique
Planting trees is one of the most responsible and main stages of landscaping. This is a very time-consuming and responsible step-by-step process.
Planted plants undergo a complex of factors: weathering, sun exposure, mechanical damage during the excavation and loss of part of the physiologically important parts of the roots and, as a result, there is a violation of the ratio “root system - aboveground part”, which leads to changes in water balance and a general decrease in the physiological stability of the plant. When planting a tree, the origin of the trees themselves, their size, age and growing characteristics in the nursery are also taken into account. Sources for planting trees can be very diverse: nurseries of ornamental woody plants, forest nurseries, afforestation. Planting material must be healthy, have a height corresponding to the age of the tree, a developed root system, fungi of a certain height and thickness, the nature of branching corresponding to this species.
The timing of tree planting depends on the time of year, weather conditions (temperature and relative humidity), the physiological state of the planted plant. Two most optimal time periods for planting trees can be distinguished: spring, and autumn. Spring periods are characterized by the beginning of the vegetation of the physiological activity of the plant, swelling of the kidneys. After thawing the soil and increasing temperature. Autumn tree planting periods are effective when the physiological processes of the tree are slowed down and in this state it is easier for him to transfer the transplant. The most favorable autumn transplant for the following species: maple, linden, hawthorn, etc. - they fall early.
Planting of large-sized plants is carried out in stages, depending on the given time. There are 5 main stages, which can then be divided into in more detail:
- Preparation of large-sized for transplantation in the nursery. Digging up a large size, packing a coma and preparing for transportation. If necessary, they are treated with additional tools and trimmed.
- Creation of conditions for temporary storage of large-sized crops before planting. Shelter of the root system, digging.
- Landing in pre-prepared landing pits or trenches.
- The basic requirements for planting trees of all age groups practically do not differ, but the labor costs and means used during the work are different. The optimal dimensions of the earthen coma for planting large trees are shown in table 1.
Table 1. The ratio of the diameter of the trunk and the size of the earthen coma
| Diameter of a tree trunk at a height of 1-3 m | Com size m |
|---|---|
| 5 | 1.0 x 1.0 x 0.7 |
| 6 | 1.3 x 1.3 x 0.6 |
| 7-10 | 1.6 x 1.6 x 0.7 |
| 10-13 | 1.8 x 1.8 x 0.7 |
| 13-15 | 2.0 x 2.0 x 1.0 |
| 16 | 2.5 x 2.5 x 1.0 |
When planting trees, it is necessary to prepare a seat (Fig. 4), which is carried out in the following way:
- Planting pits are prepared 6-10 days before planting trees;
- The length and width of the pit should exceed the size of the sides of the coma by at least 70 - 90 cm, and the depth - 20-35 cm height of the coma;
- The walls and bottom of the pit must be carefully leveled and cleaned, the bottom is loosened to a depth of 15-20 cm, a layer of plant soil 10 to 25 cm thick is poured, the center of the pit is marked with a peg to center the planting.
- Fertile land is imported first, and its quantity depends on the degree of fertility of the local soil. Low-fertile soil is updated by 100%, its volume is equal to the volume of the landing pit minus the volume of the coma;
- A drainage device is made using coarse sand or gravel or gravel, the height of this layer varies from 10 - 25 cm;
- After preparing the seats, measurements of the landing pits are made for accounting, and the height of the root neck is also measured? planted tree to calculate the shrinkage of the land necessary for planting a tree. Acts are prepared on the preparation of seats.
Preparing Landing Pits
When planting trees, it is necessary to take into account the distance between the trees (Table 2).
Table 2. Table of distances between trees Light preference Class of tree Distance between trees, minimum, m Photophilous and moderately photophilous I 5, 5 - 6
II 4, 5 - 5 III 2.5 - 4
Shady I 3, 5 - 5
II 3 - 5 III 2.5 - 3
Note to the table: I bush. - the category of tall shrubs forming strong shoots and an extensive crown, h = 1, 5 - 5 m (lilac, mock tree, shrub linden); II bush. - medium-sized shrubs forming dense crowns of medium size, h = 0, 6–3 m (cotoneaster brilliant, snow-berry, Siberian derain); III bush. - undersized shrubs, creeping forms, h = 0, 3 - 1 m (cotoneaster horizontal, Japanese euonymus). When planting a tree, its purpose in this place is also taken into account - the placement and amount of planted material depends on this.
Landing
An adult tree is installed in a landing pit using a truck crane (Fig. 5). The root lump is set slightly above ground level, taking into account spring subsidence. A pit with a lump is covered with vegetable soil, first knocked out under the bottom of the lump and followed by thorough layer-by-layer compaction to avoid possible voids. During the installation of the tree, special vertical drainage channels are formed. They will further provide a better supply of tree roots with air and facilitate the penetration of moisture.
Reinforcement
After that, as when planting seedlings, the tree is strengthened with special extensions (spacers). Stretch marks can be removed only after a year or two, when the earth has completely settled, and the roots of the tree are firmly fused with the surrounding soil. Do not forget that the extensions in the place of attachment to the trunk need to be re-tied from time to time, as the tree trunk grows, and over time the cord can pull the tree. It is also possible to install extensions with a diameter larger than the diameter of the barrel at the attachment point. The trunk circle is mulched by wood bark, peat or wood chips. When planting large crops during the growing season, the main thing is to prevent the drying of the lump coma during the transportation and planting of the tree. To do this, an average of 20% of vegetative organs is removed. In the summer, it is most convenient to transplant plants in containers, since the planted plant experiences less stress when planting. Watering should be done weekly, even if it rains. Planting of large crops at temperatures above 25 * C should be discontinued. Large-sized at the facility are placed strictly in accordance with the landscaping project, because when creating such a project, all the necessary living conditions for the tree and the optimal distances during planting were provided. To increase the survival rate of large-sized plants, it is necessary to use growth biostimulants - this allows the tree to acclimatize faster in a new place and form a new mass of roots. For example, “ Heteroauxin ”, “Kornevin”, “Herbamine”, “Bioplex”. The rate and time of watering and top dressing should be considered in a specific situation and taking into account the concentration of the growth stimulator.
Care for planted large-sized crops
Care for planted large-size plants consists in a system of measures to restore impaired body functions. The first year after planting large-sized plants is the most critical, because the root system is severely disturbed, its active part, the suction roots , is partially destroyed. To restore the root system requires systematic watering.
Watering planted large-sized crops is carried out depending on the availability of soil with water and the growing season. If large-sized crops were planted in winter or spring, then it should be watered at least 7-12 times for the entire growing season, taking into account weather conditions. In the first time after planting, more intensive watering is necessary, even if there is climatic rainfall. The best time for watering is morning, before 11-12 hours and evening, after 6 hours, at a water temperature of 15 ... 22 * C. We apply watering using growth biostimulants. Standards for making heteroauxin when caring for trees:
| Shrub saplings | 0.5 (0.002%) |
| Tree seedlings (up to 10 years) | 0.75 (0.005%) |
| Trees with a lump of 0.8x0.5 (12 years and above) | 0.75 ... 1.0 (0.005%) |
| Trees with a lump 1,3х1,3х0,65 | 1.5 (0.005%) |
Irrigation of the aerial parts is also an important event when caring for a planted plant. By the method of small-droplet spraying ( sprinkling ), the aerial part of the tree is treated. Coniferous plants are washed in the spring the next year after planting. Sprinkling can be combined with fertilizing with mineral fertilizers. For example, urea at a rate of 1 g / l of water, a 0.2% solution of ammonium nitrate, a 0.5% solution of superphosphate, a 0.4% solution of potassium chloride. Care and close monitoring of the planted krupnomer is carried out during the first 2 to 3 years after planting. After 3 years, it is necessary to remove the stretch marks and mounting stakes.
Barrel cultivation and mulching are used to improve soil aeration. Oxygen better reaches the root system of the tree. The depth of cultivation is 5-6 cm, not more, since the root system can be damaged. Mulching can be done using sawdust, peat, crumbs from the tree bark - this allows you to achieve porosity of the upper layer of the soil and increase water absorption.
Protection of transplanted large trees from diseases and pests
Sources of large-sized planting material are mainly nurseries, forest crops and natural plantings. Due to the economic difficulties of the nineties, the care of plants in many nurseries has practically stopped, planting has been started, which leads to a loss of decorative trees and the development of fungal infections.
The selection of trees using mechanical means, careless care of trees and neglect of nurseries often lead to a large number of damage to the trunks, especially in the butt part. Since the selection and transplantation of large trees occurs mainly in the winter, such damage is under the snow and is missed when inspecting the trees. Therefore, often planting material falls into the area with necrosis , rot and other damage to the trunks.
After transplanting, the size of the root system decreases, therefore, a significant weakening of trees is observed, active and latent pathogenic infections begin to progress, which under natural conditions do not cause significant harm to the tree, but develop on its weakened parts. So, on the small-leaved linden widely used in planting, the degree of crown damage with tyrostromosis sharply increases after transplantation. On the summer oak, the pathogen of clitris necrosis is activated, which leads to a significant damage to the crown of the tree.
In the first year after transplanting of deciduous trees , mandatory sanitary pruning of diseased and dead branches is necessary, which must be carried out periodically during the season, since the death of individual branches is observed throughout the growing season. After transplantation, especially on linden trunks, weeping necrosis often occurs. Through cracks in the cortex , sap flow occurs. If an autopsy is performed, then a longitudinally elongated portion of the dead bast can be detected. If the wound of this site is not cleaned and treated on time, then in subsequent years the area of damage will increase, which can lead to a deterioration in the appearance, growth and development of the tree and can even lead to its death.
On Siberian cedar ( Pinus sibirica ), shoot coniferous cancer is a great danger, the causative agent of which is marsupial fungus ( Ascocalyx abietina ). In healthy trees, under natural conditions, it settles on separate dying thin branches inside the crown of the tree . After a tree transplant, the pathogen affects the shoots of the current year, as new shoots are weakened by the consequences of the transplant. With a strong degree of damage, the proportion of such shoots can reach more than half the crown of the tree. Throughout the summer season, it is necessary to monitor the trees, to carry out their periodic sanitary pruning and processing of the crown with fungicidal preparations.
Another danger that lies in wait for transplanted large-sized trees is stem pests. Coniferous trees are most susceptible to stem pests.
When transplanting large-sized plants, a lump is frozen in the winter. If the landing pit is prepared in advance, then it also manages to freeze significantly. For these reasons, the beginning of vegetation in such trees is delayed for several weeks, but usually no more than a month. Since a significant part of the root system is lost during transplantation, the resin-excreting functions of the tree, which are the main natural protection against pests , are weakened. Also, very often spring trees are not irrigated, which is an additional reason for their weakening. All this leads to the fact that bark beetles begin to actively populate large trees weakened by transplantation.
Conifers
For conifers with a thick bark (especially for species of pines with a thick bark) such as common pine, black pine, white pine and others, the most dangerous pest species is the large pine beetle. The main distribution (the so-called flight - the period in which insects actively move around the territory, capture new areas ) of these insects begins immediately after the snow melts. Usually, populated trees are paid attention only when large amounts of drill flour are already clearly visible on the trunk. But by this time, the uterine passages reach about 5 cm, there is an active oviposition, and sometimes the development of larvae may even begin.
The main control measure in such cases is the mechanical opening of passages and the destruction of beetles, their eggs and larvae and the subsequent treatment of the affected trunk with insecticidal preparations. Processing the already populated tree does not lead to the desired result, the beetles do not die due to the thick bark in the pest settlement. In such cases, only the death of individual males can be observed, which, crawling out, eject drill flour, and fall on the bark sections treated with insecticides.
The greatest difficulty is finding all the passages of the beetle. Since the inlets are hidden under the crust flakes, their location can only be determined using drill flour, but this is also difficult. The fact is that part of the drill flour is blown away by the wind, part is stuck in areas of the crust, located far from the inlet. Finding all the inlets the first time is almost impossible.
Therefore, to fully identify all the passages, it is necessary to carry out at least 3 inspections of the tree with an interval of 1-2 days. Such work is very painstaking and time-consuming, it can only be done by an experienced specialist, but, given the fact that the cost of a subsequent tree replacement can several times cover the cost of saving it, these inspections must be performed. It must be remembered that for a tree with a diameter of not more than 15 cm, even 2 missed pest moves can eventually lead to the death of the tree, since the larvae will completely destroy the bast area around the entire circumference of the trunk.
If the birth of larvae has already begun, then this measure does not bring the desired result. A patch of dead tissue is created at the places where they begin to feed, their passages are clogged with excrement, and drug transfer to them does not occur. Therefore, the larvae survive and continue to feed successfully.
Experience shows that even if a tree is severely affected - that is, 20 or more passes on the trunk - if you discover and open all the passages and conduct timely treatment, then the tree will successfully take root in a new place, and with good care in two years, its growth will be no less , and in some cases more than it would be in vivo if the tree were not transplanted. Small open passages that go unnoticed after embedment are subsequently flooded with resin and do not even require their closure, larger damaged areas must be covered with special ready-made compounds or garden varieties.
Coniferous species of trees with thin bark - common spruce ( Picea abies ), Siberian cedar ( Pinus sibirica ), Weymouth pine ( Pinus strobus ), various types of fir ( Abies ) (especially balsam fir ( Abies balsamea ) and Korean fir ( Abies koreana )) - successfully affected by this type of parasite as an ordinary engraver. This type of pest also belongs to the species of bark beetles. This species begins to fly a little later than a large pine beetle and populates trees in the area of thin bark more massively. Fir trees no more than two meters high are populated by an engraver in the area of whorls.
Processing a tree saves it from death only if settlement is detected at the initial stage, beetles only penetrate into the bark, mating chambers are under construction. Usually in this case, double treatment of the tree is applied with an interval of half a week. In the case when there is already an active construction of the uterine passages along the entire trunk, the tree usually cannot be saved. With a high density of settlement, even if the bugs are destroyed, the conducting system of the tree is interrupted by uterine passages in many places, and the death of the tree is inevitable.
The bark beetle typographer settles in areas with both thick and thin bark, so it is able to attack any species of conifers. Control measures for this type of pest are similar to control measures for a large pine beetle. Mass forests of the printing bark beetle are characteristic of forests near Moscow. To control the beginning of summer, pheromone traps can be used. The ingress of the first beetles into them indicates the beginning of a mass departure, therefore, it is immediately necessary to carry out protective treatments of the trunks of the planted trees with contact preparations.
The corrosive wood often affects the trunks of deciduous large-sized trees. If a settlement is found, it is necessary to quickly reach the caterpillar and destroy it. It is desirable to open the course, treat with fungicides and seal up with a preservative composition. If it is not possible to carry out this operation, the inlet must be sealed up in order to prevent the penetration of fungal infection through it.
This type of parasite as narrow-bodied goldfish often affects the skeletal branches of deciduous trees. The leaves on the affected branches begin to turn yellow at the end of mid-summer and dry up without falling. If you carefully examine the affected areas, you can find old oviposites of goldfish, covered with white caps. The populated branches must be cut and destroyed before the emergence of the imago (imago is an adult insect) of the pest. It is almost impossible to save such branches, because by the time the appearance of external signs of settlement — drying out of the foliage — the branches are already ringed by larval passages. To prevent settlement, it is possible to carry out preventive treatment with insecticides during the period of active distribution of narrow-bodied goldfish.
Birch branches are often damaged by hornets. This type of insect is not very dangerous, but during the construction of nests, they can completely nibble the bark and bast in fairly large areas, completely ringing branches and thin trunks, which leads to their subsequent drying. During the flight of the hornets, it is necessary to control plantings and, in the case of pests, conduct contact insecticide treatment.
Очень опасный вредитель — сибирский хермес (два основных вида: сибирский кедровый хермес ( Pineus cembrae ) и сибирский пихтово-еловый хермес ( Aphrastasia pectinatae )), с этим типом вредителей сложно бороться, предпочтительно он поражает кедр сибирский и сосну обыкновенную . Поскольку самки и кладки яиц этого вредителя покрыты белым пушком и при проведении химических обработок с него легко скатываются капли препарата то их сложно поразить инсектицидами. Поэтому необходим постоянный контроль за вредителем, чтобы отследить начало процесса, когда выходят личинки из кладок. Поскольку личинки младших возрастов, так называемые «бродяжки», не опушены, то время проведения искоренительных обработок должно быть сопряжено со временем массового выхода личинок.
Успех посадки и приживаемость крупномерных деревьев зависят от многих факторов: от соответствия видовых требований деревьев условиям мест их посадки, от качества посадочного материала; от соблюдения технологии посадки и после посадочного ухода, в том числе, например, от соответствия размеров кома размерам деревьев, диаметру их стволов; от режима полива в вегетационный период; от дополнительных средств и методов улучшения почвенных условий и повышения индивидуальной устойчивости деревьев, таких, как стимуляторы корнеобразования, антидепрессанты , иммуностимуляторы и др. в период приживаемости, а также от индивидуальных генетических особенностей дерева.
Предугадать по внешнему виду дерева, как оно будет приживаться на новом месте не всегда возможно. В некоторых случаях лучшие по внешнему виду деревья после пересадки активно заселяются вредителями. Поэтому в период лёта наиболее активных видов жуков-короедов необходимо осуществлять еженедельный контроль за состоянием недавно посаженных крупномерных деревьев.
Также не следует забывать о профилактике. С этой целью необходимо иногда обрабатывать стволы и ветки пересаженных деревьев инсектицидными препаратами, с целью предупреждения повреждения деревьев короедами. Для профилактики распространения грибных болезней желательно в течение всего сезона производить две или три обработки крон деревьев фунгицидными препаратами.
Успех посадки крупномерных деревьев в значительной степени зависит также от погодных условий года, времени выпадения и высоты снежного покрова и зимних температур, определяющих глубину промерзания почвы . Также влияет амплитуда колебаний температуры в весенний период, поздневесенние заморозки, продолжительность засушливых периодов в весенне-летний период, а также многие другие факторы, влияющие незначительно. В некоторой степени влияние негативных факторов можно смягчить мерами дополнительного ухода за пересаженными растениями с применением современных средств.
Помимо стволовых вредителей существует ещё один класс вредителей крупномеров — это различные виды сосущих паразитов. Пересаженные крупномерные деревья могут поражаться большим комплексом сосущих вредителей — тлей, растительноядных клещей, щитовок и пр. Проблем с защитой деревьев от различных видов тлей, как правило, не возникает, поскольку они хорошо уничтожаются любыми контактными и системными препаратами. Но поскольку за лето тля даёт несколько поколений потомства, то необходимо соблюдать дозировку препаратов во избежание привыкания к ним вредителей.
Использование крупномеров в садово-парковом строительстве
Крупномеры и стили садово-паркового дизайна
Крупномеры не требуют длительного времени ожидания и меняют любой участок до неузнаваемости. Но если хочется к тому же создать приятную атмосферу в саду, то следует обратиться к профессионалам. Ниже приводится несколько самых популярных стилей садово-паркового искусства:
- Английский сад — его ещё называют пейзажным садом. Все элементы такого сада располагаются так, как они могли бы быть расположены в естественной среде. Плавные линии переходов и мощеные дорожки. Для придания естественности английский сад использует ярусный метод расположения растений. Регулярный стиль с четкими и симметричными линиями. Ярко выраженная основная линия является центром композиции такого сада.
- Китайский сад — сад , устроенный по законам фэншуй , каждое растение, в том числе и крупномер, в этом саду несет свой смысл.
- Японский сад — предполагает создание модели устроения мира, где каждая стихия имеет своё место и предназначение.
Каждый из приведенных выше стилей садово-паркового дизайна можно достаточно быстро воссоздать. В ландшафтный дизайн крупномеры вписываются идеально, ведь в этом случае не нужно ждать многие годы, чтобы получить сад в том стиле, в каком хочется. Современный ландшафтный дизайн часто предусматривает крупномеры, поскольку мало кто готов ждать 10-20 лет, чтобы увидеть, как будет выглядеть посаженое дерево.
Взрослые деревья и оформленный сад подчеркнут красоту дома, соединят здание и участок в единое целое. Особенно удачно смотрятся дома, в которых внутренний стиль дома перекликается с дизайном сада. Со строгим стилем дизайна дома хорошо будет сочетаться регулярный сад, классический стиль подчеркнет английский сад, а модерн удачно дополнит японский или китайский сад.
Сад будет удачно смотреться, если сочетать в нём крупномеры разной высоты. Делать плавные переходы от низкорослых кустарников к высоким деревьям. Лиственные деревья хорошо разбавить хвойными, чтобы с наступлением осени и зимы участок не выглядел «голым». Выполненный профессионалами ландшафтный дизайн — крупномеры и небольшие садовые крупномеры, удачно дополненные кустарником — сейчас один из самых популярных садовых дизайнов.
Крупномеры: одиночные и групповые посадки
Всегда ли предусматривает современный ландшафтный дизайн крупномеры? Чаще всего, да, ведь это наиболее быстрый и качественный способ создания зелёной зоны вашего участка. В любой ландшафтный дизайн крупномеры «вписываются» как нельзя лучше. Всегда можно подобрать подходящее дерево для участка. Если раньше считалось, что крупномеры следует сажать группами, то сейчас все больше приобретает популярность китайский и японский садовый стиль, где свойственен минимализм. Всего лишь одно дерево — и сад преображается.
Необходимо, чтобы сад был таким местом, где хозяева дома и их гости будут отдыхать. В душных мегаполисах человек удаляется от природы. Сад — это то место, где можно отдохнуть душой и телом. Благоприятную атмосферу создает также водоем: небольшой пруд или ручеек украсит ваш сад, а водоем в свою очередь удачно дополнит плакучее дерево.
Выполненный профессионалами ландшафтный дизайн — крупномеры плюс небольшие садовые деревья, удачно дополненные кустарником — сейчас один из самых популярных садовых дизайнов.
Колонновидные крупномеры ( Можжевельник обыкновенный compressa или, например, Можжевельник виргинский skyrocket) удачно дополнят шарообразные или раскидистые кустарники, например, кедр ливанский «nana» или тис ягодный .
Плакучие растения, например, ель Бревера ( Picea breweriana ) — удачно дополнят стелющиеся кустарники, например, можжевельник казачий.
При пирамидальной или конической форме одиночно посаженого крупномера к нему подойдут как стелющиеся, так и шаровидные кустарники или низкорослые деревья.
Самый простой и, в то же время, высокохудожественный ландшафтный дизайн — крупномеры, главное — подойти к этому вопросу со вкусом.
Одиночные посадки деревьев и кустарников хорошо выглядят на открытых пространствах. Отдельно стоящее дерево или кустарник называют солитером. Такие деревья удачно выглядят на фоне фасада здания или на ухоженном газоне. Для одиночных посадок выращивают ширококронные крупномеры, которые создадут приятную тень в жаркий летний день.
Прикорневой круг можно засыпать декоративными щепками или корой, что будет красиво смотреться, и не будет выделять края нарушенного газона, если крупномер был посажен после того, как вырос газон.
Аллеи — это посадка деревьев двумя параллельными рядами с двух сторон от дороги. Плотные сомкнутые аллеи создают впечатление далекой перспективы, но при этом крона крупномеров не развивается полностью. Большое количество деревьев мешает ей. Декоративность аллей зависит от величины и формы деревьев, а также от её длины и ширины. Чем шире и длиннее аллея, тем более высокорослые и ширококронные породы можно применять. Для ширококронных и теневыносливых пород, у которых крона опущена до самой земли, ширина аллеи должна быть 14-16 м. Деревья с более узкой кроной требуют ширины 10-12 м. Если аллея имеет ширину менее 10 м, её можно оформить низкорослыми растениями и деревьями с пирамидальной кроной. Аллеи шириной менее 6 м не допускаются, так как они не обеспечивают разъезда двух автомашин. Деревья с очень раскидистыми кронами для аллейных посадок мало пригодны. Совсем не годятся деревья, дающие корневые отпрыски. Использование нескольких пород в аллейных посадках не допускается, так как снижается декоративность и устойчивость деревьев.
Аллеи, где ряды деревьев растут на небольшом расстоянии, сейчас более популярны и современны, так как в них деревья хорошо растут и у них более красивая крона, так как им не мешают растущие рядом крупномеры.
Группы крупномеров собирают из одной или чаще нескольких пород. По высоте и форме кроны они могут быть одинаковыми или контрастировать на различии между собой. Количество деревьев в группах неограниченно, но чаще для групп используют 3-5 деревьев, чтобы подчеркнуть красоту каждого дерева.
Очень важным вопросом является освещенность участка, что напрямую влияет на подбор видов деревьев и мест их посадки. Необходимо помнить, например, что березы и сосны — светолюбивые растения, а ели и клены — теневыносливые. Составление композиции из разных пород деревьев требует художественного вкуса и профессиональных знаний. Необходимо учитывать цвет листвы, объём и форму кроны растений. Форма кроны может быть шаровидная ( клен остролистный , яблоня ), колонновидная ( тополь пирамидальный ), конусовидная ( ель ), зонтиковидная ( сосна ), плакучая ( ива плакучая ). Обычно самый эффектный экземпляр сажают отдельно на хорошо просматриваемом месте, тем самым демонстрируя его во всей красе. Многие деревья поодиночке не смотрятся, тогда их высаживают группами (групповая посадка). В каждой группе необходимо сформировать ярусы. Ярусы, как правило, формируют, чередуя деревья разной высоты, хвойные и лиственные породы. Например, высокую ель можно подчеркнуть средней высоты кленом.
Выполненный профессионалами ландшафтный дизайн — крупномеры в сочетании и низкорослыми живыми изгородями, одиночными кустарниками — сейчас очень актуален.
Literature
- Александрова О. Японские сады… Что в имени тебе моем" // Янус Нерухомість. 2002. C. 27
- Березина В. Образ современного сада. 28 ноября 2002
- Бузько В. Ландшафт под заказ // Компаньон. 2003. C. 62-66
- Бычкова А. Декоративные газоны // Строительство и реконструкция . . 15 августа 2003. С. 51
- Бычкова А. Место встречи — сад! // Строительство и реконструкция. 6 марта 2003. С. 45
- Волочай О. Шварев М. Ландшафтные дорожки // Строительство и реконструкция. 6 марта 2003. С. 46-47
- Воронина О. Звездное небо над головой // Идеи вашего дома. 2002. C. 180—196
- Голибардова М. Ландшафтный дизайн: в поисках варианта // Будмайстер. 2002. C.14-15
- Голубцов С. Собственный лес // Коммерсантъ . . 6 ноября 2002. С. 41-42
- Карманова И. Натурализация городской застройки // Янус Нерухомість. 2002. C. 18-19
- Карпова Н. Английские парки в степях Украины // Бизнес+.3 июня 2002. С. 16-17
- Климов И. Японский сад тсубонива // Ватерпас. 2001. C.58-61
- Колесников А. И. Пересадка больших деревьев.- М.- 1939.-78 с.
- Лапшина О. Истратова Г. Растения в интерьере (рекомендации по созданию зимнего сада) // Идеи вашего дома. 2002. C. 132—144
- Левченко А. Сад: создаем проект // Янус Нерухомість. 2002. C.24-25
- Липская М. За зелеными кулисами // Архидея. 2002. C. 55-59
- Литвин О. Живі огорожі // Янус Нерухомість. 2002. C.27
- Литвин О. Стилістика саду // Янус Нерухомість. 2002. C.26-27
- Лобков П. Опыт растительной жизни // Итоги. 2000. 45. C.
- Мариуц О. Ваш собственный Эдем // Строительство и реконструкция . . 17 июня 2003. С. 46
- Мариуц С. Висячие сады семирамиды: из истории великих строек // Будмайстер. 2002 . C. 36-37
- Новаковская Ю. Ландшафтная архитектура: весна — начало сада // А. С. С.. 2002. C.60-61
- Пойдина М. Строим, строим Зеленград // Строительство и реконструкция 15 августа 2003. С. 9
- Савельева М. Петергоф: парк — подражание // Янус Нерухомість. 2001. C.30-31
- Савченко Е. На садовом участке // Строительство и реконструкция. 13 сентября 2001. С. 24-25
- Статья из журнала «Идеи Вашего дома», № 11(57) — 2002
- Толдова И. Декоративные растения: что, где, почем". 15 октября 2002
- Художин А. Зимние сады // Ватерпас. 2002. C.114-118
- Шафранский Т. П. Пересадка деревьев и кустарников летом в городах.- М., изд-во Министерства коммунального хозяйства РСФСР, 1958, 121 с.
- Эдельштейн В. И. Введение в садоводство. ГИЗ.1
- Теодоронский В. C. Садово-парковое строительство, М.: Изд-во МГУЛ , 2003. ISBN 5-8135-0164-9