Brogues (English brogues) are shoes or boots with decorative perforations, which can be located along the seams, on toes and backs . Such perforation can be present on oxfords , and on derby , and on monks, as well as on shoes and boots of some other models [1] . The term broguing is used to indicate the process of applying decorative holes on toes and backs of shoes; in addition, there is a similar process called punching, as a result of which decorative perforation appears along the edges of the top parts (along the seams) [2] .
Content
History
Brogering shoes, that is, punching holes in the skin , began to be dealt with by cattle farmers in Scotland and Ireland in the 16th-17th centuries [3] [1] . Then the main function of the holes was to divert water from the foot and to quickly ventilate it, since the farmers were farming in the marshland. The holes in the boots were initially through, but over time they became decorative, and the corresponding shoes began to gain popularity among representatives of aristocratic circles. Moreover, for a long time it was considered very informal and was used only in the countryside.
Over the course of the 20th century, brogues became more and more popular - not least thanks to the Prince of Wales, Edward , who at one time had a reputation as one of the most elegant men in the world [4] . The prince found the brogues comfortable golf shoes and then began to wear them in the city. It was for him in the John Lobb atelier in 1937 that they made the world's first half-brogues - a variant of brogues with cutting capes and perforations along the seams [4] . Today, brogues are one of the most popular types of shoes; they can be found in the assortment of mass-market brands, and in the collections of famous fashion designers .
Varieties
Full Brogues
Decorative perforation is present along all or almost all seams, as well as on toes. In addition, the seams on the toes have a “wing-shaped” shape, which is also often called the W-shaped. The holes in the toe of a shoe are grouped into a kind of pattern called a medallion [5] .
Semi-Brogues, Half Brogues
Perforation is present along many or all of the seams, as well as on the toes; while the toes are separated from the rest of the shoe with straight seams [5] . In some cases, the term demigods is also used for shoes without perforation on toes.
Quarter Brogues
Perforation is available only along the seams (sometimes generally only along one seam). There is no perforated pattern on the capes of shoes [5] .
It is worth adding that to designate shoes or shoes with decorative perforations along only one seam, the term punched cap is sometimes used.
Austerity Brogues
The capes are separated from the rest of the boot with W-shaped seams, however, there is no perforation on the shoe at all. Such a model appeared during the Second World War and is now very rare.
Blind Brogues
Another very rare option. On blind brogas, the seams on the headlands are W-shaped, and perforation is present along all or almost all of the seams; there are no medallions on the capes.
Wear Rules
Decorative perforation reduces the officiality of shoes, so brogues are not worn with formal evening wear such as tuxedos and tailcoats . On the other hand, their black version with closed lacing and perforation only along the seams on cutting capes is considered acceptable for carrying with business cards , as well as strict business suits [5] .
When choosing clothes for brogues, it should be borne in mind that the more decorative perforation shoes are, the less official they are. In addition, light colors, thick soles and textured materials ( suede , grained leather) reduce the degree of officiality. In practice, this means that dark brogues with closed lacing sewn from smooth leather can be worn with business suits, but brogues with open lacing made of grained leather are combined only with suits made of tweed and similar materials, but significantly better harmonize with jeans .
One of the most versatile options are semi-brogues made of smooth skin in dark burgundy or dark brown, with a closed lacing and not too thick soles. They can already be worn with strict-looking jeans and chinos without arrows, but they still fit well with many costumes and a variety of unpaired trousers - both with arrows and without them. For those who wear very rarely costumes, a better choice would be half-brogues with open lacing or full brogues with lacing of any type. It should be borne in mind that models made of granular leather are better suited for the cold season and look weird with linen and thin fabrics made of cotton and wool . Suede and smooth leather are appropriate all year round.
Manufacturers and Brands
Brogues are present in the assortment of so many brands. Among the eminent and bona fide manufacturers, the following companies can be mentioned:
- England : Alfred Sargent, Cheaney, Church's, Crockett & Jones, Grenson, John Lobb, Loake, Sanders, Tricker's
- Spain : Berwick, Carmina, Michel, Yanko
- Italy : A.Testoni, Barbanera, Enzo Bonafe, Franceschetti, Moreschi, Paolo Scafora, Santoni , Silvano Sassetti, Stefano Bemer, Sutor, Velasca
- Portugal : Carlos Santos, Mariano
- France : Aubercy, Corthay, JMWeston
- Switzerland : Matt Paker
See also
- Oxfords
- Monkey (shoes)
- Derby (shoes)
- Loafers
Notes
- ↑ 1 2 Brogues Shoe & Wingtip Guide for Men - Gentleman's Gazette . www.gentlemansgazette.com. Date of treatment January 5, 2019.
- ↑ Brushing . The Penny Yard .
- ↑ Paul Anthony. Wingtips & Brogues | The Differences Between Two Similar Shoes (English ) ? . bespokeunit.com. Date of treatment January 5, 2019.
- ↑ 1 2 Josh Sims. Male style icons. - Moscow: Hummingbird, 2012.
- ↑ 1 2 3 4 Nicolo Antongiovanni. Costume. - Moscow: Good Book, 2008.