Derby (shoes)

Derby shoes appeared more than a hundred years ago, but the exact date of their appearance is unknown. Some experts suggest that such shoes were invented at the twelfth Earl of Derby , who lived in 1752-1834. Others believe that the derby appeared only at the fourteenth column of Derby , who lived in the years 1799-1869 and was very obese, so that he could have problems putting on narrow classic boots.

The name of the model - “derby” - is associated with one of these graphs. The first written mention of the term derby in relation to shoes dates from 1862, but in the corresponding text under the “derby” was meant shoes; the same term in relation to shoes was first used in 1872 ^[2] .

It is worth adding that some people use the term “bluers” as a synonym for the word “derby”. He appeared thanks to the Prussian Field Marshal Blucher , who participated in the Battle of Waterloo . According to legend, the soldiers of the Blucher army wore boots with open lacing, which was the initiator of this innovation ^[3] .

There are several types of shoes with open lacing:

• Derby - in a broad sense, these are any shoes with an open lacing; in a narrower sense, these are shoes with an open lacing, on which holes for laces are located on large sidewalls sewn on top of a vamp (front);
• Bluchers - in a broad sense, it is synonymous with derby; in a narrower sense, these are shoes with open lacing, on which holes for laces are located on small pieces of leather sewn on top of a vamp (front);
• Derby with simple capes (plain toe derby) - capes on such shoes are not separated from the vamp (front) by any seams;
• Derby with detachable capes (cap toe derby) - capes on such shoes are separated from the vamp (front) by one or two seams. Other things being equal, this model is considered less official than a derby with simple capes.
• Derby with bifurcated (Norwegian) capes (Norwegian toe derby / split toe derby) - shoes with open lacing and a semicircular seam on the capes and vamp; the front edge of the seam is connected to the front edge of the sole with another short seam. If the seam is made from the outside and raised, then the shoes are called Norwegian (Norwegian), and if from the inside, then Algonquin (Algonquin).

It is worth adding that on the derby there may be decorative perforation ( broguration ); in this case, they can also be called brogues.

Derby is less formal than Oxford , but it can look quite strict. Black, dark brown and maroon derby made of smooth leather without decorative perforation (brimming) are suitable for business suits, but they can also be worn with unpaired trousers and dark jeans . Accordingly, such men's shoes are very versatile, because they are suitable both for the office and for various informal events. At the same time, tuxedos , tailcoats and business cards should not be worn.

Decorative perforation reduces the officiality of the derby; if there are a lot of shoes on, then it is best to wear them with jeans, chinos, unpaired trousers and informal suits (for example, from tweed ). In addition, lightness and textured materials (in particular, grained leather, which at the same time also makes shoes more “winter”) reduce the degree of formality. Any derby looks bad with shorts and sweatpants. Without socks, these shoes are sometimes worn, but conservatives consider this combination to be inappropriate.

It is worth adding that not all derby are in good harmony with clothes made of thin and smooth fabrics, since ceteris paribus they seem a little more massive and less elegant than oxfords. Elegant and relatively narrow derby are often equipped with only two or three pairs of holes for shoelaces and are especially popular in France ^[4] . However, models with five to six pairs of holes for laces can also look elegant and stylish.

Derby is available in many different brands. Among the eminent and bona fide brands, the following can be mentioned:

• England : Alfred Sargent, Barker, Cheaney, Crockett & Jones, Edward Green, Grenson, John Lobb, Loake, Tricker's
• Spain : Berwick, Carmina, Cordwainer, Michel, Yanko
• Italy : A.Testoni, Barbanera, Enzo Bonafe, Franceschetti, Moreschi, Paolo Scafora, Santoni , Silvano Sassetti, Stefano Bemer, Sutor, Velasca
• Portugal : Carlos Santos, Mariano
• France : Aubercy, Corthay, JMWeston, Paraboot
• Switzerland: Matt Paker

• Oxfords
• Monkey (shoes)
• Brogues
• Loafers

• Types of classic men's shoes