Bantha Brakk [2] , Baintha Brak , or Ogre ( Baintha Brakk , The Ogre - English ogre ) (7285 m) - a pointed, very rugged peak with a bizarre relief. The highest peak of the ridge, in Karakoram . 87th highest in the world. Known as one of the most difficult peaks in the world: 24 years passed between the first successful ascent in 1977 and the subsequent in 2001.
| Bantha Brakk | |
|---|---|
| English Baintha brakk | |
 View of Ogre and the Southern Finger from the Biafo Glacier | |
| Highest point | |
| Absolute height | 7285 [1] m |
| Relative height | 1891 m |
| First climb | July 13, 1977. Doug Scott and Chris Bonington |
| Location | |
| A country |
|
| Territory | Gilgit-Baltistan |
| Mountain system | Karakoram |
| Ridge or array | Panmah Muztag |
Content
Location
Ogre is located in the northern part of the Biafo Glacier , one of the large glaciers of central Karakoram. It is located 75 km north of Skardu , the main city of the region, and 30 km from the road to Ascol [3] .
Features
Bantha Brakk is an exceptional peak with its combination of absolute height, elevation above the surrounding area and significant steepness. This is a complex of granite towers, steeper and rugged than most other Karakoram peaks ( Latok is located east (7145 m), however, it is not inferior to Ogre in this). For example, the northern wall of Ogre rises more than 3000 m above the Uzun Brak glacier with a horizontal distance of 2 km [4] . A notable feature of the mountain is the huge gendarme - the Southern finger of Ogre (Lukpilla Brakk) (5380 m) [5] .
... The mountain below is ugly: stocky, it ends with three small, nipple-like rocks. And yet she is not without grace, which gives her the South pillar - a stone finger 900 m high ... [6]
This combination of steepness and the unpredictable shape of the rocks lies in the attractiveness of Ogre for mountain climbers .
Climbing History
Following two unsuccessful attempts in 1971 and 1976, Bantha Brak was first conquered by two Britons: Doug Scott and Chris Bonington in 1977. They climbed along the southwest ledge to the western ridge and through the Western peak reached the Main. Climbing was complicated by the need for complex work on almost vertical rocky sections located at the same time at an altitude of more than 7000 m. The remaining members of the expedition - Mo Entoyne , Cleve Rauland, Nick Estcourt - reached only the lower Western summit. Another member of the group, Here Braithwaite, one of the first days received a serious injury from a rockfall during an attempt to climb the Southern finger [7] .
The descent of Doug and Chris turned into an epic tragedy. During the descent from the Main peak, breaking down (the rope withstood), Scott broke both ankles. A little later, Bonington broke two ribs and earned severe pneumonia. During the weekly descent to the base camp, the strongest wind with snow did not stop. Nevertheless, both reached the base camp (Scott overcame this distance on his knees and crawled), where they waited for quite a while for help [8] .
The second successful ascent on Ogre was made by Urs Stocker, Ivan Wolf and Thomas Huber on July 21, 2001, through the Southern finger along the path of their first ascent to the minor peak Ogre III (about 6800 m) [9] . Before them, more than 20 unsuccessful attempts were made along this route [10] . The American Alpine Journal called their climb the most significant achievement of the 2001 season [11] .
The third climb was made by the Americans Kyle Dempster and Hayden Kennedy on August 21, 2012 along the southern side of the mountain [12] .
Notes
- ↑ Peakbagger.com
- ↑ Soviet nomenclature map of the region, sheets: Map sheet I-43 ., Map sheet I-43-B ., Map sheet I-43-IV . Scale: 1: 200 000. Indicate the date of issue / condition of the area . , Map sheet I-43-8 Ascoli . Scale: 1: 100 000. The condition of the area for 1977. 1982 edition
- ↑ Karakoram map . Date of treatment September 7, 2011. Archived on August 27, 2012.
- ↑ DEM files for the Himalaya / Karakoram (Corrected versions of SRTM data)
- ↑ Ogre and the Southern Finger . Date of treatment September 7, 2011. Archived on August 27, 2012.
- ↑ Page of the Almanac “Wind of Wanderings” with the story of Doug Scott. 1986 . Date of treatment September 7, 2011. Archived on October 4, 2012.
- ↑ Andy Fanshawe and Stephen Venables, Himalaya Alpine-Style , Hodder and Stoughton, 1995, ISBN 0-340-64931-3 .
- ↑ Self-rescue on Ogre. Doug Scott . Date of treatment September 7, 2011. Archived on August 27, 2012.
- ↑ American Alpine Journal , 2001, p. 365
- ↑ The Himalayan journal contains only 10 unsuccessful attempts, however, all such attempts are often not included in the journal. The journal also contains an error in the year of the second successful ascent (worth 2000).
- ↑ American Alpine Journal , 2001, p. 366
- ↑ The Third Ascent of the Ogre . Archived November 23, 2012.
Literature
- Jill Neate, High Asia: An Illustrated History of the 7000 Meter Peaks , ISBN 0-89886-238-8 .