Zamoskvorechye (historical area)

Zamoskvorechye in the XIII-XIV centuries

Parts of Moscow of the 17th century: Kremlin, Kitay-Gorod , White City , Earth City

As a historical area Zamoskvorechye began to form in the early 1200s . At this time, along the tract leading to the Golden Horde , on a narrow strip of land opposite the Kremlin , Russian people began to build their houses, and those who came from the Horde, and the area was called Zarechye. One of the oldest buildings - the Church of St. John the Baptist , which near Bor, was erected at a time when the Kremlin hill covered the forest, that is, at the very beginning of the birth of Moscow. In the XIII - XIV centuries in the southern part of Moscow there were coppices, swamps, flood meadows and lakes. Ozerkovskaya embankment and Ozerkovsky lane got their names from them. The first settlements of Zamoskvorechye spread along the banks of the Moscow River and along trade roads of the southeast direction, merging into one at Borovitsky Hill . Now it is approximately the area of Bolshaya Ordynka , Pyatnitskaya , Novokuznetskaya streets. But the territory of Zamoskvorechye was not populated very actively, since it was from this side that enemy troops often attacked Moscow.

In this area, Danilov Monastery was built, which church traditions draw the oldest monastery on the Moscow River . According to legend, it was founded by the Moscow prince Daniil Alexandrovich ^[1] in honor of his heavenly patron - pr. Daniel Stolpnik . Kremlin history researcher Alexander Voronov points to 1282 , ^[2] when Daniil Aleksandrovich peacefully resolved the conflict between his brothers Dmitry Pereyaslavsky and Andrei Gorodetsky for Vladimir’s great reign and for the right to reign in Novgorod .

In 1293, Andrei Gorodetsky became the instigator of a new campaign of the Golden Horde generals in North-Eastern Russia . The campaign, which is called " Dudenev's army ", was led by the military leader Tudan (in Russian chronicles it is called Duden) and Zamoskvorechye was again ravaged, just like the whole of Moscow. ^[2]

In 1330, Prince Ivan I Danilovich Kalita , son of Daniel at St. Metropolitan of Kiev and All Russia Feognost (1328–1353), transferred the archimandrite and part of the monks of this monastery to his princely court. The graveyard of the Danilov Monastery and the villages belonging to it passed under the control of the archimandrite of the Kremlin Spaso-Preobrazhensky Monastery to the forest , the priority of which was the arrangement of a new grand-prince monastery. Without proper supervision, he gradually became impoverished, in the XIV-XV centuries. only the wooden church of Daniel Stolpnik remained on the site of the monastery, and with it the Danilovskoye village. ^[2]

For a long time Zamoskvorechye was a Moscow suburb . The first documented mention of the District dates back to 1365 . Since the reign of the son of Dmitry Donskoy , Prince Vasily Dmitrievich , princely and later royal gardens have been located in this area. Gradually, the main trade routes in Zamoskvorechye shifted, but the old roads did not disappear, but turned into intra-suburban and inter-suburban transport arteries. It is this inconstancy of the main roads of the Zarechye that led to the fact that a complex system of streets and lanes formed on the flat terrain of the area.

At the end of the XIV century, the territory located closer to the Kremlin belonged to the Grand Duke and was almost completely built up, in contrast to the area behind the old man (the old channel of the Moscow River ), where the monastery and boyar villages were located. It was from here, from the wooden Nikolskaya Church on Bersenevka in 1493, that a great fire started, spreading to the other side of the Moskva River and burning the Kremlin to the ground. In order to continue to protect the Kremlin from such a danger, the buildings of Zamoskvorechye located along the river opposite the Kremlin were demolished, and Gosudarev Garden was planted in their place. Thus, three palace gardening settlements appeared in Zamoskvorechye, in which gardeners lived, whose duties were to take care of fruit trees. These settlements were called: Upper Sadovniki (district of Bersenevskaya embankment ), Middle Sadovniki (district of Gosudarev Garden) and Lower Sadovniki (district of Zemlyanoy Val ). An area was formed between the settlements on which public baths were built, and during the reign of Ivan the Terrible , the very first Moscow tavern was opened here.

At the beginning, the settlements did not have streets; communications between the estates were located either along the riverbank or along the drainage ditches, which were needed to protect against frequent floods and waterlogging. Gradually, more remote sections of the Zarechie began to settle. One of the first appeared the palace village of Kadashevo. Perhaps the name of the village came from the ancient Türkic “kadash” - a comrade, a community member, or from the profession of residents who made pots for the use of the prince’s court. At the site of this village a large Kadashevskaya settlement was formed , in which palace weavers lived. Nearby was a settlement of sheepskins, which had their own church of Mikhail Archangel, and even further south, on the site of the current streets of Yakimanka and Novokuznetskaya, there were settlements of interpreters (translators) and Horde (carriers of tribute). Kazan and Nogai merchants settled on the very outskirts of Zamoskvorechye, who later formed the Tatar settlement (now Bolshaya Tatarskaya street and part of Klimentovsky lane ).

Between the settlements lay fields and meadows, which are now reminiscent of the streets of Bolshaya Polyanka and Malaya Polyanka , Bakhrushina (formerly Luzhnikovskaya) and others. The gates of the Zarechensky Sovereign Garden overlooked Baltschug Street . This street - one of the most famous in Moscow, appeared at the end of the XIV century. Its name comes from a distorted Tatar "balchik" - clay, mud. As already mentioned, in order to protect their homes from flooding, the inhabitants of the lowland Zamoskvorechye laid numerous ditches (ditches) to the main channel. These ancient moats gave the name Raushskaya (Rovushskaya) embankment.

In addition to floods, residents of Zamoskvorechye often had to take the blow of enemy troops. The flat landscape, devoid of any natural barriers, created excellent conditions for an attack on the city in this place. Most attacks on the Kremlin and Kitai-Gorod were launched from the Zarechye area. Therefore, when in 1485 they began to build the existing Kremlin walls, they first erected the Tainitskaya Tower , located from the Zamoskvoretskaya part, it was supposed to protect the Kremlin in case of an unexpected attack.

XV-XVI centuries

Over the years, the authority and influence of the Moscow Principality grew, enemy raids occurred less and less, and Zamoskvorechye grew more and more actively. On the border of the XV and XVI centuries Pyatnitskaya street was born, which served as the shortest route from the Moskvoretsky bridge to the Lazy bargaining with the Pyatnitskaya church . Pyatnitskaya at that time was called the Lenin Great Pavement - by the name of bargaining. Bidding, similar to the Lazy one, often occurred at the border of the settlement along the road, where a large number of carts could freely fit. So it was in the case of Lazy bargaining. This version is confirmed by the fact that the Paraskeva Friday church, which was near the square, was also called Forgiveness - the place of farewell, that is, the outskirts. At different times, both Pyatnitskaya street in Moscow and Novokuznetskaya were called Lenivka.

Given the “borderline” location of Zamoskvorechye in relation to the Kremlin, it seems logical that at the beginning of the 16th century the first military settlements arose in this area. In 1535, a detachment of Pishchalniks from Pskov was located in Zarechye, and, starting from 1550 , Ivan the Terrible arranged several streletsky settlements in Zamoskvorechye, which are located on the site of the current Klimentovsky lane . Streletsky settlements significantly increased the security of the area, but until the end of the XVI century there were no defenses in Zamoskvorechye. The main protective function was carried out by mobile fortresses, they were called walk-cities or "convoys". All these attributes were inherent in the streletsky settlements. It was thanks to such protective structures that Moscow managed to survive during the invasion of the horde of Gaza Giray in 1591 .

In the period 1591-1592, a defensive structure called the Wooden City was built around the perimeter of the Earth City . Often it is called Skorodom - because of the speed of construction. The emergence of this structure led to a change in the geography of Zamoskvorechye. Zamoskvorechye with the central Kadashevskaya settlement , within the borders of which was Gosudarev Hamovy Dvor and the Church of the Resurrection , at that time looked like a chaotic housing estate interspersed with swamps and fields. Part of the uninhabited places appeared in 1571 , when Zamoskvorechye suffered significant losses during the next raid of the Tatars . All these factors restrained the development of urban planning. Nevertheless, the proximity to the Big City played a role, and gradually Zamoskvorechye began to be inhabited by craft people, gaining an orderly drawing of neighborhoods. Until the 17th century, Zamoskvorechye consisted of wooden buildings. The exception was the building of the Church of St. John the Baptist, which is near Bor, the Ivanovo Monastery, the Church of St. George in Endovo . Many Zarechensky estates included gardens and vegetable gardens, which for many years has become a hallmark of this area.

XVII century

At the beginning of the XVII century, through the Serpukhov Gate in Zamoskvorechye, and then into the Kremlin, the Polish protege False Dmitry I passed. Then, in 1612, a center of resistance to Polish interventionists was organized in Zamoskvorechye, and this area of ​​Moscow was almost completely destroyed during the fighting. On August 24, 1612, in Zamoskvorechye, the troops of Minin and Pozharsky defeated the Polish army, which determined the fate of the liberation operations. It is likely that during the battles with the Poles, the wooden fortifications of Skorodom were burned down and replaced by the bastions of the Earth City, which were built in stages from 1628 to 1629 and from 1637 to 1638 .

In the XVII century, the population of Zamoskvorechye could be divided into three groups. The first included residents of the settlement, which were associated with the maintenance of the Grand Duke’s court: Sadovnicheskaya, Ovchinnaya, Kuznechnaya, Monetnaya, Kozhevennaya and Yamskaya Kolomenskaya Sloboda. The second group included merchants who moved to Zamoskvorechye, since the land here was very cheap. The third component was archers, who were on guard duty, and also served as firefighters. In addition, many archers were also engaged in trade.

If you try to streamline the data on the settlement of Zamoskvorechensky territories, then three stages can be distinguished. Initially, coastal territories were settled at the mouth of the Neglinnaya River , then the area is built up a little to the west of the Peter Tower of the Kremlin , and by the end of the XIV century the population density in the northwestern and northern parts of the Zarechye increases.

In the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries along the ancient roads of the southeastern direction, the current Novokuznetsk and Bolshaya Tatar streets begin to form. Previously isolated streets grew, merging into a single settlement. In 1701, during the next fire, the Sovereign Garden was killed, and its territory also began to be built up. In 1731, Zamoskvorechye was finally divided into the border street Ordynka and the central street Pyatnitskaya, by the name of which the whole part of the Zarechie began to be called.

The defensive function was central to Zamoskvorechye until the time of Peter the Great . After the suppression of the Streletsky rebellion , the main participants of which were the inhabitants of the Streletsky settlements of Zamoskvorechye, the Streletsky regiments were disbanded. Some of the rebels were executed, and some were distributed among regular military regiments. The capital was moved from Moscow to St. Petersburg , and the court sheepskins, gardeners, blacksmiths and coins lost their earnings at court. The only ones who were not affected by the changes were traders who also lived in Zamoskvorechye. The lands that had lost their owners were distributed either to high military ranks or to merchants (mainly to those who were involved in supplies for the army). Gradually, the district becomes the habitat of the Moscow merchants . This fact is clearly reflected in the plays of the famous playwright, a native of Zamoskvorechye, A. N. Ostrovsky , and in the canvases of the painters P. A. Fedotov , V. G. Perov , and I. M. Pryanishnikov . Among the inhabitants of the District there were many millionaire companions, for example, Kozma Matveyev, with whose funds the St. Clement's Church was built on Pyatnitskaya. And the nobles also did not shy away from this area, erecting their mansions here.

XVIII — XIX centuries

Until the beginning of the 19th century, this historical area of ​​Moscow was a combination of large quarters built up with houses of merchants and philistines . V. G. Belinsky wrote about Zamoskvorechye:

It was thanks to the unhurried provincial way of life of the Zamoskvoretsky merchants that Moscow was called the “big village”. The district was like a separate city with a calm patriarchal atmosphere. A little light, when most of the Muscovites were still asleep, the inhabitants of Zamoskvorechye hurried to their shops. In the evenings it was customary to have tea at the open windows with an indispensable attribute - a large samovar . And they went to bed here very early, when life in the Big City was still in full swing.

Zamoskvorechye still suffered from annual floods, during which the streets turned into river beds. Water flooded not only the basements, but also the first floors of some houses. The names of Bolotnaya Square and Bolotnaya Embankment remained a reminder of that time. Now, on the site of Bolotnaya Square, there is a garden in which a monument to I. Repin is installed, and in ancient times fist fights were held here, even sovereigns were present. In addition, executions were carried out on this square. Emelyan Pugachev and his associates were executed on Bolotnaya Square.

In 1783, another flood destroyed not only small wooden benches, but also some stone buildings, as well as the bell tower of the church of George in Endov , after which the city authorities finally took the problem seriously, and decided to build a drainage canal . For the construction of the canal used the old channel of the Moscow River (old man). The design of the Vodootvodny Canal was carried out taking into account the already existing architectural layout, so the configuration of the streets was slightly changed, and mostly wooden houses were scrapped. Stone buildings, even if they went beyond the red lines of the plan, were left, and some of them have survived to this day. Built in 1783-1786, the Drainage Canal fixed the natural border between the narrow coastal part of Zamoskvorechye and its main territory.

In 1787, a fire occurred in Zamoskvorechye lasting 10 hours - Ordynka and Pyatnitskaya suffered, 86 stone and wooden houses and 98 shops burned down.

В 1861 году в России было отменено крепостное право , что привело к значительным переменам в экономической жизни страны. Большее внимание стали уделять фабрикам и заводам, произошли изменения в сфере занятости населения. Благодаря этим событиям кардинально изменился и образ жизни русского купечества . В эпоху позднего классицизма дома дворцового типа строили для себя уже не представители родовой знати, а чаще всего именно купцы. Но атмосфера спокойствия, способствовавшая душевному равновесию и комфорту, продолжала оставаться важным элементом Замоскворечья. Возможно, благодаря этой особенности в XIX веке здесь всё чаще селятся представители творческой интеллигенции, имена которых вошли в историю русской культуры .

В доме на Малой Ордынке родился знаменитый русский драматург А. Н. Островский . В доме на улице Пятницкой в середине 1850-х годов снимал квартиру Л. Н. Толстой . На Большой Ордынке находится так называемое Куманинское подворье — здесь проживала тётка писателя Ф. М. Достоевского , у которой он часто гостил. В этом же доме жила семья поэта-сатирика В. Ардова , здесь во время своих визитов в Москву останавливалась А. Ахматова .

Знаменитый французский поэт Теофиль Готье так писал о Замоскворечье XIX века:

Zamoskvorechye in the 20th century

In the 1920s, Bolshaya Yakimanka was rebuilt - a highway was created that connected Zamoskvorechye with the city center. The street has almost completely changed, from the old Yakimanka there is only the Church of John the Warrior and the house of the merchant Igumnov (the current embassy of France ). In 1931, on the arrow (the nameless island) formed during the construction of the Vodootvodny Canal , according to the project of Boris Iofan , the famous House on the Embankment was built for members of the government - a grand residential complex with all the necessary services. According to the architect's intention, the building was dark red, like the Kremlin, but in the end it was built gloomily gray. The Udarnik cinema and the current Variety Theater belong to the House complex on the embankment. Many celebrities lived in this house, including the Hero of Socialist Labor A. Stakhanov . In 1934 the church of Paraskeva Pyatnitsa was demolished, from which the name of the street Pyatnitskaya went. On the site of the church, the Novokuznetskaya metro station was built. In the same years, the churches of Cosmas and Damian in Kadashi and Peter and Paul on Yakimanka were destroyed, and the Polyansky Market was built up.

In comparison with other areas of Moscow , the architectural appearance of Zamoskvorechye has been preserved quite well. In 1960 - 1970, the streets Pyatnitskaya, Bolshaya Polyanka, Bolshaya Ordynka, Novokuznetskaya, located within the Garden Ring , were recognized as protected areas (although during the reconstruction of Yakimansky passage in 1969 the Yakimansky church , which gave the name to the street), was demolished. The main streets of Zamoskvorechye, located behind the Garden Ring: Kozhevnicheskaya , Dubininskaya , Bolshaya Serpukhovskaya , Lyusinovskaya , Pavlovskaya .

Today, Zamoskvorechye, like the rest of Moscow, continues to change. For example, another landmark appeared on the arrow - a monument to Peter I ( Z. Tsereteli ). Initially, it was a monument to Christopher Columbus , and it was created for the Dominican Republic . But the Dominican state refused the monument, and Columbus turned into the Russian emperor. The most famous sights of Zamoskvorechye are churches and museums. The most famous Zarechensky churches include the Church of All Who Mourn , Joy , built by architect Bazhenov in 1790 . The Church of Clement of the Pope (1762), located in Klimentovsky Lane , has survived to this day. And finally, in the Lavrushinsky Lane of Zamoskvorechye there is one of the most famous Moscow museums - the Tretyakov Gallery .

• Ivanov O. Zamoskvorechye. Pages of history. - M .: Publisher V. Shevchuk, 2000 .-- 352 p. - 5,000 copies. - ISBN 5-94232-001-2 .
• Zamoskvorechye. Travel guide with maps. - 2001 .-- 96 s. - (Country Guide). - ISBN 5-86394-152-9 .
• Kolodny L. Moscow in the streets and faces. China town. Zamoskvorechye. - M .: Voice-Press, 2003 .-- 384 p. - 10,000 copies. - ISBN 5-7117-0449-4 .
• Averyanov K. A. History of Moscow districts: Encyclopedia. - M .: Astrel, AST, 2008 .-- 830 p. - ISBN 978-5-17-029169-4 .

• Zamoskvorechye on the Yandex.Panorama service.