Transformer jewelry is jewelry that can be modified in appearance or function. They can be defined in the literature by the double name: “ brooch - bracelet ” or “ brooch - pendant ”.
The concept of "transformer" appears in the Russian language in the 90s of the XX century in the meaning of "mutating." In English, transformer is a term used in furniture design to define objects that, through transformations, change not only shape, but also function. Now the concept of "transformer" has expanded and is used in relation to jewelry.
Types of Jewelry
- jewelry with a variable function;
The first group, jewelry with a variable function, can include items such as brooches, bracelets, slide bracelets, which consist of movably fixed links that are separate jewelry, brooches, pendants, etc.
The most famous transformer of this type is the Zip bracelet necklace - a zipper created by Van Cleef & Arpels in 1954 . Decoration has no analogues in the world so far. Zipper when closed - a bracelet, and when open - a spectacular necklace.
- jewelry that changes in appearance.
The second group of transformer jewelry that can be modified externally is transformer earrings with removable pendants, necklaces and rings with replaceable elements, rings that can be divided into two and worn both individually and together, rings in which one external shank can open in two halves and you can wear a lightweight version, rings with flip inserts, etc.
Van Cleef & Arpels rings, which can be worn on two fingers and on one, belong to the same group. The ring has a swivel mechanism that allows two tires to rotate relative to the connection point.
Principles of Action
- The principle of rotation of elements around a point or axis.
- principle of disconnecting elements.
Both principles are equally applicable in both groups of transformer jewelry. For example, a two-finger ring with two Van Cleef & Arpels tires and a Helios-opt pendant ring, which has a pendant loop in the upper part of the ring and the tire is movably fixed and can become a pendant suspension. Both rings are transformed due to the rotation of the elements. A necklace with removable pendants and a bracelet with a detachable central part, used as a brooch, are transformed according to the principle of detaching the elements.
Since the mechanisms for detaching parts are easier to manufacture and operate, the number of jewelry with removable elements prevails in the modern jewelry market. But the principle of rotation of the elements gives more interesting and unusual solutions, the risk of losing the details of the decoration disappears. This principle is not fully disclosed and is the most promising for a jewelry designer.
Literature
- Sotheby s. Jewels. Antique, period and contemporary. London Tuesday 29 june 2004. p. ten.
- Jasper Stone. Jewelery Encyclopedia Gemstones are kinds of products of the term. - SPb, SZKEO "Crystal", 2008. - 192 p., Ill.
- Lopato M.N. Jewelers of Old Petersburg. - St. Petersburg, State Hermitage Publishing House, 2006. - 272 p., Ill.
- Jewelry Russia No. 89. April 21, 2009.