Bolotov, Alexey Vasilyevich

In 1980 he graduated from high school number 9 in Sverdlovsk , in 1985, the Ural Polytechnic Institute (Faculty of Mechanical Engineering), specializing in electronic engineering. Since 1993, he worked as a leading specialist of ROSTEP. He was married, had two children ^[1] .

Champion of the USSR (1987), Russia (1987, 1999), Armed Forces (1990). Three-time silver and bronze medalist of the national mountaineering championships. Commander of the Order of Courage , Medal " For Services to the Fatherland " II degree ^[1] .

Two-time winner of the highest international mountaineering award " Golden Ice Ax ": 1997 - for the first ascent of the western wall of Makalu , Himalaya (as part of the Russian team, led by A. Mikhailov and S. Efimov), 2004 - for the first passage of the northern wall of Zhanna , Himalaya ( in the national team of St. Petersburg , led by A. Odintsov (due to injury, he went down from 7400 m).

In 2010, he was the only representative of Russia in France at the celebration of the 50th anniversary of the first ascent of Annapurna ^[1] .

1993 - Western Victory (6918 m), Central Tien Shan , with Yukiko Sinagawa ( Japan ).

1994 - Khan-Tengri (7010 m), along the northern wall, Central Tien Shan , Kyrgyzstan .

1995 - Victory Peak (7439 m) from the South Inylchek glacier, Kyrgyzstan .

1998 - Victory Peak, accompanied by Junko Tabei and two more Japanese mountaineers.

1999 - (7010 m), India ^[2] .

2000 - Khan-Tengri, according to the classical route (according to information provided by Denis Urubko , Bolotov did not reach the top 200 m) ^[3] .

2005 - McKinley (now Denali) (6138 m), Alaska , USA .

1997, May 21 - Makalu (8463 m), the first passage of the western wall, heads Sergey Efimov and A. Mikhailov (during the expedition Salavat Khabibullin and Igor Bugachevsky were killed) ^[4] .

1998, May 18 - Chomolungma (8844 m), with oxygen, headed by Yevgeny Vinogradsky ^[5] .

2001, May 23 - Lhotse Medium (8414 m), first ascent (as part of the Russian national team, head Nikolai Cherny ) ^[6] .

2002, May 16 - Chomolungma (8844 m), without oxygen, hands. Gennady Kirievsky ^[7] .

2005, October 6 - Dhaulagiri (8167 m), as a part of the Angarsk expedition, hands. Sergey Petrov ^[8] .

2006, May - Chomolungma (attempt of the third ascent), descended to 7800 m, hands. Nikolai Totmyanin ^[9] .

2006, October 3 - Cho Oyu (8201 m) on the classic route, Ural Cho Oyu Expedition 2006, hands. Gennady Kirievsky ^[10] .

2007, August 22 - K2 (8611 m), first ascent on the Western Wall, hands. Victor Kozlov ^[11] .

2008, May - Annapurna Vostochnaya (8029 m, 7 May) and Annapurna Home (8091 m, 19 May), the expedition of Sergei Bogomolov, the Spaniard Inaki Ocho de Olsa died while climbing ^[12] .

2009, May 18 - Manaslu (8163 m) with Gleb Sokolov and Sergey Duganov , hands. Russian team ^[13] .

May 2010 - an unsuccessful attempt to climb Lhotse Home (8516 m), head of an international expedition, Sergei Duganov was killed during the descent ^[14] .

2010 - Gasherbrum I (8068 m, July 28), Gasherbrum II (8035 m, 5 August), hands. international expedition ^[15] .

2011, May 19 - Kanchenjunga (8586 m) with Nikolay Totmianin and Israfil Ashurly ( Azerbaijan ). Head of the international expedition ^[16] .

July 22, 2011 - Broad Peak (8047 m), international expedition ^[17] .

2012, October - the second unsuccessful attempt to assault Lhotse Home (8516 m) with the Polish expedition of Arthur Haiser , the Sherpa Themba was killed during the descent ^[18] .

Total climbed 14 times to the summits above 8000 meters (as of July 2011). From the program “14 eight-thousanders of the world”, ascents to 11 peaks were made, three ascents are not taken into account: Chomolungma (again), Lhotse Middle (not the main peak), Annapurna East (not the main peak).

Nanga Parbat in Kashmir, Shisha-Pangma in China and Lhotse Main in the Himalayas remained uncrossed.

In the spring of 2013, Aleksey Bolotov, together with Denis Urubko, planned to pave a new route along the southwestern wall of Chomolungma. May 15, 2013 at 05.00, Alexey Bolotov made a descent on a rope found on the spot. Due to scrolling on the sharp rocky edge, the old rope was worn out, and Aleksey fell down a rocky couloir from a height of about 300 meters ^[19] . The disruption occurred at an altitude of about 5,600 m during a roundabout of the Khumbu icefall to the right of the slope.

Alexey Bolotov was buried on May 22, 2013 at the Shirokorechensky cemetery in Yekaterinburg near the graves of Salavat Khabibullin and Igor Bugachevsky, who died in 1997 during the ascent of Makalu ^[20] . October 19, 2014 at the Shirokorechenskoye cemetery Alexei Bolotov was erected a monument.

In January 2016 in the publishing house “Basko” ( Yekaterinburg ) with a circulation of 400 copies. The book “Alexey Bolotov. Vertical of Life ”, which was written by Nanette Bolotova, mother of the deceased mountaineer ^[21] , ^[22] .

• Personal page of Alexey Bolotov
• Video interview site Yandex.ru
• A documentary film about the rescue operation of Inaki Ochoa de Olza (Iñaki Ochoa de Olza) on Annapurna in May 2008 with the participation of Alexey Bolotov