The Scottish national costume is a traditional men's costume, the main distinguishing feature of which is a small kilt - men's knee-length skirt with large pleats at the back, sewn from a checkered woolen fabric - tartan .
On top of a linen shirt or woolen doublet jacket, a tartan cape ( plaid ) is thrown onto one shoulder, and stockings up to the knee ( knee-highs ) and shoes with metal buckles are put on the legs. In addition to the kilt, the national costume also includes a beret with a feather or pompom and sporran ( sporran ) - a leather purse trimmed with fur (often seal), which hangs on the kilt belt or in a separate narrow strap or chain covering the hips. Modern Scots with a kilt often wear a jacket or vest. There are also skinny trews checkered trousers. [one]
Costume Options
Variants of a modern Scottish costume can vary from the simplest, for every day, to a very formal formal dress. For everyday wear, in addition to the kilt, they usually wear a classic tweed jacket, simple stockings and boots on their feet, and also takes a simple leather sporran.
The modern formal (the most complex, formal and expensive) version of the costume usually includes a white shirt with a bow tie, a vest and one of the official options for jackets (Prince Charlie or Argyll), a formal fur spore, as well as white or tartan stockings and special shoes (ghillie brogues) with long laces covering the leg above the ankle. In especially solemn occasions, a small plaid is worn, fixed on the left shoulder with a brooch.
Individual Costume Elements
The Scottish takes a balmoral or tam o'shanter - a woolen beret without a pompom on top, sometimes with a cockade and feather on the left side, to which the badge can be attached - the emblem of the clan. Usually takes wear, slightly shifting to the right. Tam-o-senter got his name from the hero of the poem Robert Burns with the same name, and the balmoral from the royal residence of Balmoral .
Glengarry military headgear is also known [2] , it is often worn by pipers. Glengarry is usually dark blue or black, decorated with or without checkered patterns.
Kiltpin ( kilt pin ) - a decorative pin (about 10 cm in length), attached to the edge of the outer floor of the kilt (kilt) to secure so that it is not lifted by the wind. In addition, the kiltpin is an ornament and, as a rule, it is made in the form of a sword in various types of Celtic design. In the manufacture of kiltpins, various materials are used: steel, tin, copper, bone, precious metals and valuable wood species. Kiltpin is not a mandatory attribute of a Scottish costume, but nevertheless complements his image well.
Another item of the national Scottish men's suit is a skin do , a small knife with a straight blade. It has become a tradition to wear this knife behind the garter of the right golf so that the head of the handle remains visible. In especially solemn occasions, with the most formal version of the costume, a dirk - a Scottish dagger can be worn on a belt in a sheath.
Scottish dance performers put on ghillies - skinny , lightweight shoes like moccasins.
Color Differences
Traditionally, kilts are sewn from tartan - a woolen fabric formed by interweaving threads pre-dyed in different colors, resulting in a rectangular pattern consisting of identical sequences of horizontal and vertical stripes. Currently, there are several thousand different tartans, each of which is now connected either with a particular Scottish clan , or with various regions and cities, significant events, there are also military regimental tartans.
Each modern Scottish clan has a specific, registered, certified sample of tartan associated with it, which clan members use for kilts and plaids. To wear someone else's colors is a social violation ( gaffe ), it is as unacceptable as a ship to raise someone else’s flag on the mast. This is strictly observed in Scotland by the responsible person - the Chief Herold, the Guardian of the coats of arms and seniority of the clans. His difficult responsibilities include ensuring that no one takes on unlawful titles, other people's tartans, or starts a melody of another clan on the bagpipe during the ceremonial march. From all over the world, requests for clan affiliation and symbolism come to him.
Kilt
Kilt is a piece of fabric wrapped around the waist and secured with buckles and straps. Historically, a large kilt was long enough to be thrown over your shoulder or to hide under it in bad weather. The word "kilt" comes from the Anglo-Scottish kilt , meaning "to wrap clothes around the body."
In turn, the Scottish word comes from the Old Norse kjilt (“folded”), which came from the Vikings, who had similar, but not tartan, folded clothes. Although the kilt is the traditional clothing of the Scottish highlanders, it has become a part of their national culture quite recently. Only at the end of the 19th century did the kilt become strongly associated with the highlanders, and subsequently was adopted by the plains inhabitants and the entire Scottish diaspora. Unlike the Gauls and Scandinavians, who forgot about such clothes, other modern representatives of the Celtic group - the Irish, Welsh, Isle of Man - recently accepted the wearing of a kilt (albeit to a lesser extent than the Scots). The Big Kilt is a garment known by many names: Great Kilt, Feileadh Mor, Breacan Feile, Big Kilt, Belted Plaid . In fact, it represents two pieces of thick woolen fabric sewn together. Its length can range from 4.5 to 9 yards (about 4.1-8.2 m) 56-60 inches wide (142-151 cm), but the most common length is 6-7 yards (5.5– 6.5 m). Folds on one part of the fabric were collected manually and secured to the belt with a wide belt. The other part could be thrown over the left shoulder and used as a cloak or be fastened to the belt, partially falling from it, or cover the shoulders and head in bad weather. A large kilt was usually worn over a long woolen shirt; among wealthy people it was customary to wear another short shirt made from fine linen, and in the case of royal clothing, even from silk. Also a large kilt was used as a bedspread. The famous clan battle in 1544 between the Frasers, MacDonalds and Camerons was called Blar-na-Leine , which means “Battle of the Shirts,” since the soldiers went into that battle without plaids, which impeded movement. There is still much debate about the time of the appearance of the large kilt, but it is known that it already existed at the beginning of the 17th century. Earlier images of the kilt show a rather long (knee-length) shirt made of leather, linen or canvas, with many folds and sometimes quilted for better protection. Most often, a large kilt is associated with Scottish highlanders, but it has also been used in poor rural lowland areas. The oldest description of kilt in highland Scotland dates from 1594:
- Their outerwear is a mottled robe of various colors, with many folds to the middle of the calf, with a belt around the waist, tightening clothes.
Underwear
According to historical tradition, a real Scot under a kilt does not wear underwear. [3] [4] [5] [6] Exceptions are Scottish dancers and competitors in the Highlands games - the national sports games of the Scottish highlanders.
Pipers of the Scottish Regiments, 1864
Scottish Regiment Soldiers, World War I
Scottish costume with kilt (fantasy reconstruction)
Notes
- ↑ The Prince Charlie Trews (link not available)
- ↑ Glengarry Hat Archived on January 19, 2015.
- ↑ The Scots were forbidden to walk without underpants (Inaccessible link) . Date of treatment November 27, 2010. Archived February 16, 2005.
- ↑ The truth about the kilt
- ↑ What do men wear under their kilts?
- ↑ some of them don't