Khrishchaty, Valery Nikolaevich

In 1973 he graduated from the Kazakh Agricultural Institute with a diploma in soil science.

At the age of 14, he independently (with a group of peers from the village of Issyk) climbed the summit of Karabas-Tau (~ 4000 meters, the Issyk spur of the Trans-Ili Alatau). This was the first peak of Valery Khrishchaty. He started climbing in 1968. For many years (1972-1990) he went in the same connection with fellow countryman Kazbek Valiev (“Thin” and “Tolstoy”).

Passed more than 50 difficult routes in the mountains of the Pamirs and Tien Shan . In total, he made about 350 different ascents. 33 times I was at 7000 meters: 10 - peak of Communism , 8 - peak of Lenin , 6 - Khan-Tengri , 5 - peak of Victory , 4 - peak of Korzhenevskaya .

The first four-time " Snow Leopard " (1991) [2] . Prior to the unique title “Winter Snow Leopard”, he did not have one winter ascent to Korzhenevskaya peak , it was planned for February 1993. Before the main ascent to Korzhenevskaya peak, two attempts were made to climb the Marble Wall, but the team could not cope with the ascent. In the first attempt, Sergey Belus died (January 26, 1993). The second attempt (participants - Babanov, Grekov, Gataulin, Karpov, Mikhailov, Muravyov, Kudashov, Gichev) - failed. Korzhenevskaya’s funding was curtailed.

• 1979 - the peak of Russia in the SE. wall, 6 c / tr. - champion of the USSR. In December 1979, as part of a group of climbers, he performed the special task of the General Staff of the SA in Afghanistan [3] .
• 1980 - the peak of Communism on the South Wall - champion of the USSR.
• 1982 - First Soviet Himalayan expedition to Everest (8848 m). In conjunction with Kazbek Valiev on the night of May 8 to 9, he rises to the top. He was awarded the Order of Friendship of Peoples, awarded the title of MSMK and ZMS.
• 1984 - Victory Peak on the northern wall - USSR champion.
• 1986 - the peak of Communism , the winter ascent.
• 1988 - first traverse of the three peaks of Victory Peak (Western (6918) - Main (7439) - Eastern (7060) and Military Topographers peak (6873) in the Central Tien Shan as part of the USSR team during the preparation of the Himalayan expedition to Kanchenjunga.
• 1988 - Lenin peak , winter ascent.
• 1989 - three ascents to the peaks of Medium (8478 m, April 15), Yalung Kang (8505 m, April 30) and Main (8586 m, May 1) of the Kanchenjunga massif (all without oxygen) ^[1] . He was awarded the medal "For personal courage."
• 1990, January-February - Victory Peak , winter ascent ^[2] .
• 1990 - a unique traverse of Victory peak - Khan-Tengri through 15 peaks in 14 days, the leader of the group, recognized as the best climber of the USSR.
• 1990, October, participated in the Kazakh expedition to Manaslu (8153 m), when the triple of Halit - Lunyakov - Galiev crashed. The expedition was minimized.
• 1991 - The first Kazakh Himalayan expedition to Dhaulagiri (8172 m). Climb to the top along the west wall (without an oxygen mask).

• 1992 - Head of the Kazakh-Japanese expedition to Everest along a new path - V. ridge. At an altitude of 8300 m, they stopped climbing due to rescue operations, the Japanese Khoshi died, and the other - Omio was barely lowered from the mountain [4] .

Valery Khrishchaty died on August 4, 1993 at 12 p.m. under an ice collapse near Chapaev’s peak on the Semenovsky Glacier, rising to the western shoulder of Khan-Tengri . His partner Ilya Iodes and two English clients died with him. The body of one Englishman was found, the other three were not found. According to the famous climber Denis Urubko Khrishchaty made a fatal mistake by going on the route “2 hours later, and by that time the sun was already hot and the ice had broken off” [5] . There is an opinion that a grand collapse is a consequence of an earthquake.

• On the building of a residential building in Alma-Ata at the intersection of Kurmangazy and Pushkin Streets, where Valery Khrishchaty lived, a memorial plaque was installed in his memory.
• In 2017, the Almaty Mountaineering Federation decided to rename the peak of Yoshkar-Ola to the peak of Valery Khrishchaty ^{[3] [4]} .

1. "Icebergs under the clouds." - Alma-Ata: Zhalyn, 1989.
2. "We dissolve in the elements." - Almaty, 1998.

“... Whoever at least once in his life breathed in the purity and freshness of the mountains will return to them again and again. During the ascent, we dissolve in the elements, become part of it, organically exist in it, ”Valery Khrishchaty wrote in his diary. Based on the notes and diaries of Valery Khrishchaty, a book was published: "We are dissolved in the elements." - Almaty, 1998 [6] .

• Everest-82: Valery Khrishchaty. Memory pictures
• Memories of Khrishchaty
• Valery Khrishchaty
• Climbers in Afghanistan
• Valery Khrishchaty's Facebook Page