Nina Ricci is a French haute couture house founded in 1932 in Paris by fashion designer Nina Ricci (real name Maria Adelaide Neuilly; 1883-1970) on the advice and support of her son, Robert Ricci (1905-1988). Since 1998, owned by the Spanish corporation Puig .
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History
Nina was born in Turin, in a family of leather craftsmen. When she was twelve years old, the family living in Florence moved to Paris. A thirteen-year-old teenager, Nina entered as a student of a modiste . Since 1908, she worked for Rafen for two decades; after some time, her name entered the name of the house. After the death of the fashion designer in 1929, the fashion house Raffin et Ricci was closed and Nina was not going to continue the business. However, in 1932, against the backdrop of the financial crisis , her son Robert decided to quit his job and persuaded his mother to open her own studio. House Nina Ricci was opened in 1932 in the 1st arrondissement of Paris at 20 .
Robert, who had other projects, including , managed the firm, while his mother was engaged in clothing collections. Starting with a staff of 40 employees, in 1939 Nina was able to hire 450 seamstresses [1] . In 1940, Robert focused on his mother’s business, in 1945 he became director of the company.
In December 1945, the first fragrance from Nina Ricci, Cœur joie , was presented in a bottle based on a sketch by Christian Berar made by . In 1946, Robert organized the perfumery division of the company.
In 1948, perfumer Francis Fabron created for Nina Ricci , which became a classic and won the market for many decades. The fragrance went on sale in 1951, the bottle, according to the sketch of also made by “ ”. Due to the fact that Robert was actively engaged in perfumery , the company moved to a new level and was able to enter the international market. The fragrances Capricci , Fille d'Ève , Farouche , Pomme d'Amour , Signoricci and others were released.
In the 1950s, Nina Ricci gradually retired. Starting from 1954-1963, worked for the house - at first as an assistant, then as the chief fashion designer. In 1959, he presented his first collection, which met unanimous praise. In 1963, Krae transferred to , and Gerard Pipar took the place of chief designer of Nina Ricci for three decades. A subtle artist, he invariably produced romantic, always feminine collections.
In the early 1960s, the company was at the forefront of ready-to-wear , one of the first to sell models in New York and Hong Kong for the subsequent manufacture and sale of products under its own label, but without its participation. In 1979, Nina Ricci moved to Montaigne Avenue , opening its boutique opposite Dior .
In 1988, after the death of Robert Ricci, the company was headed by a family member, foster son of Nina Gilles Fouche. Around the mid-1990s, Miriam Schaefer released the collection, adhering to an elegant, slightly vintage style.
In 1998 [2] the Nina Ricci brand was sold to the Spanish clothing and perfumery manufacturer Puig [3] - since that time, Nina Ricci has ceased to engage in high fashion , leaving only the line of the finished dress .
Since 1999, the head designer of the house has been the Canadian Natalie Gervais, her last collection was "Autumn-Winter 2001". In 2003-2006, the collections were produced by the Swede , in 2006-2009 - the Belgian , from autumn 2009 to 2015 - the Englishman Peter Copping , in 2015-2018 - Guillaume Henri . In August 2018, Rushemi Botter and Lisi Herrebrug were invited to run the house ; their first collection, Fall-Winter 2019, was presented at Paris Fashion Week in the spring of 2019.
In the 21st century, Nina Ricci focused primarily on perfumes. Among the fragrances L'air du Temps, Love by Nina, Nina, Premier Jour, Love in Paris, Ricci Ricci, Nina L'Elixir . Jessica Stam , one of the highest paid models of her time, was involved in creating an advertising campaign for Ricci Ricci .
Style
Unlike many other fashion designers, Ricci, like , never drew sketches , but independently pricked fabrics on a mannequin or directly on a mannequin [1] . Neither restrained minimalism, nor the experiments and provocations that excite Paris were characteristic of her fashion house - Nina Ricci's house invariably adhered to a romantic, full of femininity and beauty of style. She loved patterns and delicate colors, the leitmotif of her work was flowers - embroidered, sewn in the form of appliqué or fabric present in the drawing [1] .
Nina Ricci's dresses could be seductive, but always remained within the bounds of decency. Thanks to this, the clientele of the house was mainly comprised of representatives of the big bourgeoisie, whose clothes were to demonstrate not so much luxury as restrained elegance.
Literature
- ↑ 1 2 3 Fashion. Century of fashion designers. 1900-1999 = Mode. Das Jahrhundert der Designer. 1900-1999 / editor Charlotte Selling. - Cologne: KÖNEMANN, 2000 .-- 656 p. - ISBN 3-8290-5414-9 .
- ↑ Puig names ex-Chloe head as fashion president // Reuters
- ↑ Puig, a Spanish fashion empire that started with a lipstick . Modaes. Date of treatment April 26, 2012. Archived April 9, 2013.