Dougther ( shugay, katsaveyka, padded jacket, tepogreya [1] ) - top single-breasted peasant women's clothing for holidays like a sweater . Widespread in Russia in the XVII century [2] .
Content
Cut and material
Dushegreya with narrow long sleeves and a turn - down collar was fitted with the help of assemblies, had a buckle on the front hooks. Worn with a sundress . Dushegreya (shugai) was sewed from expensive fabric: damask , brocade , silk , printed fabric ; put on the lining, sometimes lined with rabbit fur. On the board, the edges of the sleeves, the collar was trimmed with braid , braid , fur (squirrel), and fringe [3] . Known variants of dougrei on the straps, sleeveless and collar. “The soulmaker was sometimes called the epanechka. True, the girl was wearing a collar, but in all other respects she repeated a warm jacket ” [4] .
In the middle of the 19th – early 20th century, summer-type padded skaters with straight, slightly flared floors wore peasant women in the central part of Russia; back, converging to the belt angle and folds laid at the belt. The collar of these duffle coats was mostly round, and sometimes the sleeves were cut out from one of the back pieces. The collar and the floor of the festive heart-dressing gowns were trimmed with fringe, decorated with embroidery with gold threads and beads [5] .
Dushegreyka newest gloom
In the XIX century, the sorrowful motifs of the Russian poetry of the 1820s and 1830s were defined by the orthodox term “warmer jacket of the newest despondency”. That is how the word “jacket” is interpreted in Pushkin’s poem “My Rosy Critic…” [6] .
For the first time, the expression was apparently used by I. Kireevsky in The Review of Russian Literature in 1829, published in the anthology DENNITS, in 1830 [6] . The expression quickly became popular and was ridiculed in articles by various authors [7] .
Notes
- ↑ Padded jacket . // Explanatory Dictionary Ushakov. D. N. Ushakov. 1935-1940.
- ↑ Balyazin V. Unofficial history of Russia. Beginning of Peter the Great. OLMA Media Group, 2006. p. 28-29.
- ↑ Belovinsky L. Shugai // Encyclopedic Dictionary of Russian Life and History. XVIII - early XX century. OLMA Media Group, 2003. p. 898
- ↑ Balyazin V.N. The Unofficial History of Russia 2007 ISBN 978-5-373-01229
- ↑ Peasant clothing of the population of European Russia. with. 31—32
- ↑ 1 2 B.S. Meilakh On a poem by Pushkin . // Russian literature, 1958, No. 1, p. 112-116.
- ↑ V. Ya. Bryusov . My Pushkin . GIZ, 1929. S. 58.
Literature
- Balyazin V. Unofficial history of Russia. Beginning of Peter the Great. OLMA Media Group, 2006. p. 28-29.
- Belovinsky L. Shugai // Encyclopedic Dictionary of Russian Life and History. XVIII - early XX century. OLMA Media Group, 2003. p. 898
Links
- Dushegreya - From the book by Kirsanov R. M. The costume in Russian artistic culture of the 18th - first half of the 20th centuries (Encyclopedia Experience), Moscow, Great Russian Encyclopedia, 1995.