Finsterarhorn [2] [3] , Finsteraarhorn [4] [5] ( Finsteraarhorn ) is the highest mountain in the Bernese Alps and the canton of Bern , Switzerland . It is also the highest point of the Alps outside the main ridge, its height is 4,274 meters above sea level.
| Finstarchorn | |
|---|---|
| him Finsteraarhorn | |
 View of the Finstehorhororn from the east. | |
| Highest point | |
| Absolute height | 4274 [1] m |
| Relative height | 2280 m |
| First ascent | August 10, 1829 (J. Leuhold, I. Veren.) |
| Location | |
| A country |
|
| Cantons | Bern , Valais |
| Mountain system | Alps |
| Ridge or array | Bernese Alps |
Since 2001, Finstekhorhororn, a part of the Jungfrau - Aletsch - Bichhorn region , which is a protected natural object, has been included in the UNESCO World Heritage List .
Content
Etymology
The name of the peak consists of 3 component values: Finst - dark , Aar - the name of the river , horn - peak . In the upper reaches of the mountain lies a glacier, from which originates the river Aare , which bears the name Finsteaar in the upstream , literally translated as Dark Aar ; This name is explained by the fact that it is invisible in the upstream, as it is lost in the ice of the glacier [6] . Most geographical dictionaries and topographic maps indicate the name of a mountain with two a , a number of dictionaries allow a name with one a [2] .
Geography
Despite the fact that the Finstarchororn is the highest peak of the Bernese Alps, it is much less known than the summits of Jungfrau and Eiger . This is due to the fact that it is located in one of the most inaccessible parts of the Alps, completely surrounded by uninhabited glaciers .
From the west is the Fischer Glacier , the second longest glacier in the Alps, and from the east lies the Upper Ars Glacier . The smaller Lower Grindelwald Glacier is located to the north of the Finstähororno massif.
The Finstähorhorn is surrounded by the peaks of Shreckhorn and Laut Hierarchorn from the north, Gross-Fischerhorn , Grünhorn and Greater Vannenhorn from the west and Hierarchal from the east.
The summit of the Finsterahormont is located on the border of the cantons of Bern and Valais , also being a watershed of the basins of the Rhone rivers (flows into the Mediterranean Sea ) and the Rhine (flows into the North Sea ).
Geology
Finstarchorn is the highest point of the Aar massif ( German. Aarmassiv ). The massif is formed mainly by granites and gneisses . The summit itself of Finstarchorna consists of amphibolites .
The tectonic rise of the massif occurred about 6 million years ago.
Mountaineering
Challenging First Ascension
The name of the first priest on the Finsterhöhorn has long been a subject of controversy. Although Johann Rudolf Meyer ( him. Johann Rudolf Meyer ) claimed that he reached the summit when trying to climb in 1812 with guides Arnold Abbühl ( him. Arnold Abbühl ), Joseph Bortes ( him. Joseph Bortes ) and Alois Volker ( him. Aloys Volker ) , is now considered (after the studies of John Percy Farrar ), published in the Alpine Journal (the Alpine Journal ), [7] that Jacob Leuthold and Johann Veren were the first to ascend to the top of Finsterhorn. ( him. Johann Währen ) (guides of Franz Joseph Hugi ( him. Franz Joseph Hugi ) along the north-western ridge 10 August 1829 (Hugi and the others remained slightly below the summit). [8]
Hugi with Abbühl (A. Abbühl), Dandler (A. Dändler), Lauener (C. Lauener) and Värenhad (J. Währenhad) climbed to the saddle under the summit ( Hugisattel , Hugisattel ) on August 19, 1828, but were forced to retreat due to bad weather. As noted in the Hugi notes ( Naturhistorische Alpenreise ), Hugi and Dandler risked their lives that day. [9]
The first recorded attempt to climb was made on August 16, 1812 by Rudolf Meyer and his guides along the southeast ridge. This route is longer and more difficult than the classic route. Franz Joseph Hugi in 1928 asked Arnold Abbuhl, who participated in that attempt to climb, whether they reached the summit, but he could not tell anything that would confirm the ascent. Hugi also noted that in 1829 no trace of the previous ascent was found. [9]
A year later, on August 10, 1829 , Hugi, along with Leuhold and Veren, again attempted to conquer the summit. Unfortunately, although the ascent was successful this time, Hugi was forced to stay on the saddle due to injury while the others climbed to the top. [9]
Other Climbing
The next attempt was made on August 13, 1857 . This was the first British attempt to climb, made by John Frederick Hardy ( Eng. John Frederick Hardy ), William Matthews ( Eng. William Mathews ), Benjamin Attwood-Matthews ( Eng. Benjamin St John Attwood-Mathews ), Ellis ( English ). and Edward Shirley Kennedy ( born Edward Shirley Kennedy ), accompanied by guides Auguste Simod (Auguste Simond) and Jean Baptiste Croz from Chamonix ( fr. Chamonix ), Johann Jaun and Redder (Johann Jaun) from the Chamonix (Famon Chamonix ), and Johann Jaun and Ider, Idomer and Johann Jaun, Idomer, Idomer, France, Johann Jaun and Johann Jaun, Idomer, Idomer, France, Johann Jaun, France, Chamonix , France, Johann Jaun; ( him. Meiringen ), by Alloise Bortis (Aloys Bortis) from Fish ( him. Fiesch ) and porter Alexander Guntern (Alexander Guntern) from Biel -in-Goms (Biel in Goms).
They left the parking lot at Concordiaplatz ( German Konkordiaplatz ) at 14:30, and reached the summit at 23:53. Before climbing Mount Matthews has already discussed the idea of creating a climbing club. At the summit of Finstehrhororn, the climbers decided to establish such a club and name it Alpine Club . [ten]
The most difficult climb route to the top, along the northeast wall, was passed on July 16, 1904 by Hasler (G. Hasler) with the conductor Ammatter (F. Amatter).
This route marked the beginning of the epic conquest of the Great Northern Walls (such as the Eiger North Face ) in the Bernese Alps. In fact, between 1904 and 1977, the northeast wall was passed only 11 times.
The third ascent was made on September 3, 1930 by Miriam O'Brien Underhill with guides by brothers Rubi. She described this dangerous climb in her book Give me the Hills . [9]
Climbing routes
The classic route starts from the Finstherhorornhütte mountain shelter (3,046 m) and goes along the southeastern slope of the mountain to the Hugisattel saddle, from where it rises to the north-western rock ridge to the top.
| Routes | starting point | Rise time | Complexity |
|---|---|---|---|
| Classic route | Finnstehorornhütte Mountain Refuge | 4-5 hours | AD- |
| Northwest Ridge (Agassiz Crest) | Finnstehorornhütte Mountain Refuge | 3-4 hours from the saddle Agassitsyoh | AD |
| Southeast ridge | Oberchirhutte Mountain Shelter | 14-15 hours | D |
| East wall | Oberchirhutte Mountain Shelter | 8-10 hours from the saddle Studerjoh | Td |
Notes
- ↑ Peakbagger.com
- ↑ 1 2 Finstarchorn / / Dictionary of geographical names of foreign countries / resp. ed. A.M. Komkov . - 3rd ed., Pererab. and add. - M .: Nedra , 1986. - P. 392.
- ↑ The Bernese Alps // Great Russian Encyclopedia : [in 35 t.] / Ch. ed. Yu. S. Osipov . - M .: The Great Russian Encyclopedia, 2004—2017.
- ↑ Geographic Encyclopedic Dictionary: geographical names / Ed. A.F. Trёshnikova . - 2nd ed., Ext. - M .: Soviet Encyclopedia , 1989. - P. 515. - 210 000 copies. - ISBN 5-85270-057-6 .
- ↑ Finsterchehororn // The Brief Geographic Encyclopedia : Volume 4: The Federal Soviet Republic - Yugoslavia / chapters. ed. A. A. Grigoriev . - M .: Soviet Encyclopedia , 1964. - P. 240. - (Encyclopedias. Dictionaries. Reference books.). - 80 500 copies
- ↑ Nikonov V. A. A brief toponymic dictionary. - M., 1966. - p. 444.
- ↑ JP Farrar. The First Ascent of Finsteraarhorn: A Re-examination. - Alpine Journal, XXVII. - p. 263–300.
- ↑ Helmut Dumler, Willi P. Burkhardt. The High Mountains of the Alps. - London: Diadem, 1994. - p. 50.
- 2 1 2 3 4 Helmut Dumler, Willi P. Burkhardt. Les 4000 des Alpes. - ISBN 2-7003-1305-4 .
- ↑ Finsteraarhorn an Stnet.ch (German) (inaccessible link) . The date of circulation is December 10, 2009. Archived July 7, 2011.
Literature
- Finstearargorn // Brockhaus and Efron Encyclopedic Dictionary : 86 t. (82 t. And 4 add.). - SPb. , 1890-1907.
- Finsteraarhorn // Feeder - Fourierism. - M .: Soviet Encyclopedia, 1956. - P. 20. - ( Great Soviet Encyclopedia : [in 51 t.] / Ed. B.A. Vvedensky ; 1949-1958, t. 45).
Links
- Finstrarhororn on SummitPost.org (English)
- Finstarchorno on peakware.com (Eng.)
- UNESCO World Heritage Site - Jungfrau-Aletsch Region (German) (eng.)
- Computer-modeled panoramas of the top of the Finstarchororn: a view from the north , a view from the south , Content .