Balezin, Valery Viktorovich

Born on June 14, 1953 in the city of Minusinsk, Krasnoyarsk Territory, in a family of meteorologists . In 1966 (according to Valery himself, in the fifth or sixth grade), the family moved to Krasnoyarsk . After graduating from high school, he entered the Krasnoyarsk Polytechnic Institute , during which he began climbing from the very beginning - first in the institute section under the mentorship of Vladimir Tronin, and a year later in the voluntary sports society (DSO) "Vodnik" with Vladimir Grigoryevich Putintsev, under whose leadership he trained and performed for the next twenty years ^[4] .

After graduating from the institute in 1976, he worked for three years on distribution at the Krasnoyarsk television factory, and in 1979 he became a climbing trainer at a sports school at the Vodnik DSO ^[3] .

In 1974, at the USSR Championship, he took 3rd place in individual climbing and fulfilled the norm of the USSR Master of Sports

In 1977, Valery became the winner of his first international sport climbing competition held in Czechoslovakia . In 1978, he won the world's largest international competition at that time (in fact, it was not an official world championship) that took place in Crimea. These competitions were held every two years for even years, Valery five times in a row from 1978 to 1986 became the champion of these competitions. In total, he won 20 gold medals at international competitions. In 1979, he won the USSR Championship, having won three gold medals at once, and until 1989 with short breaks, he retained his primacy in this sports discipline ^[1] . In 1982, he became the first sports climbing athlete in the USSR to fulfill the standard for the title of World-Class Master of Sports of the USSR, having won at major international competitions in the Crimea.

In addition, during his sports career, Valery won 24 gold medals at major all-Union climbing competitions for the prize of E. Agalakov, 15 times became the champion of Russia in climbing.

For 14 years in a row he was a member of the USSR national team, of which 10 years was the first number in the ranking of the strongest climbers of the USSR

In addition to climbing, Valery also engaged in mountaineering. In 1980, Balezin fulfilled the standard of the USSR Master of Sports in Mountaineering, having completed 12 rocky routes of 5B complexity category (in two) in one season, which was a record of his time.

In 1983, the Balezin team (Yu. Sapozhnikov (coach), S. Bayakin (captain), A. Bogachev, V. Bogomaz, N. Zakharov and S. Chentsov) for the first time in a series of climbing in the Caucasus became the champion of the USSR ^[5] , then they became champions of the USSR in 1985.1986.1987. In 1988, Valery received the title MSMK of the USSR in mountaineering ^[3] .

Since 1996, he has been the trainer of the Krasnoyarsk Territory national team in mountaineering (together with Nikolai Zakharov ), as well as the regional center for sports training "Winter Sports Academy". Under his leadership, Krasnoyarsk athletes became repeated champions and winners of the Russian mountaineering championships in various classes.

Over the past years, he regularly participates in the international championship and the championship of Russia among mountaineering and climbing veterans held in Sudak, where he becomes the champion among athletes from Russia and foreign countries 5 times in a row ^[6] .

First ascension as a leader

• 1991 Free Korea (North Wall, 5B )
• 1994 Free Korea (center of NW wall 5B ), Corona Peak (5th tower), center of SW wall 6A
• 1997 Star peak ( Ergaki ) NE wall 5B ^[7]
• 1998 p. Zvezdny, western wall 5B. Vostochny settlement on Pillar From Art. 5 B.
• 1999 p. Dinosaur in the NW wall 5B, Dragon's Tooth - in the center of the South wall 5B. Vostochny village in the center of 6A
• 2000 Free Korea - to the right of the left buttress From wall 5B
• 2001 p. Tsarskiy Tron SZ wall 6A , p. Star - the north-eastern wall and the bastion of the NW of crest 5B , Dragon's Tooth St. C. tower 5B. P East 1st rib C of wall 3B, 2nd rib C of wall 4B
• 2002 p. Oryol on the northern wall 5B

As a trainer

• 1998 Ergaki, p. Zvezdny, second place in the Russian Championship in the class of winter ascents.

• 2000 Free Korea, second place in the Russian Championship in the winter climbing class.

• 2001 Kodar , Tsarskiy Tron peak, 1st place at the Russian Championship in the winter climbing class ^[8] , Ergaki - full-time Russian Championship in the climbing class - 1st and 2nd place

• 2002 Norway , Troll Wall - 1st place in the Russian Championship in the winter climbing class, 2nd place in the Golden Edelweiss nomination ^[9] , Caucasus, Yerydag - 2nd place in the full-time class.

• 2003 Kodar, Tsarskiy Tron peak, 3rd place at the Russian Championship in the winter climbing class, Tien Shan , Victory Peak , 2nd place at the Russian Championship in the high-altitude climbing class, Caucasus , Ak-Kaya metro station, 1st place at the Russian Championship in full-time rock climbing classroom.

• 2004 Pamir-Alai , Aksu, 1st place in the championship of Russia in the technical class, Western Sayans , Ergaki, 1st and 2nd place in the championship of Russia in the full-time rock class, Chinese Pamir, p. Kongur (7719), 2nd passage.

• 2005 Kodar, Krasnoyarsk Territory (2824), 3rd place in the Russian Championship in the technical climbing class, the Caucasus, Yerydag, 1st place in the Russian Championship in the full-time rock class, Tien Shan, Khan Tengri , 3rd place in the Russian Championship in the class high-altitude ascents, Pamir-Alai, Yellow Wall, 2 place in the championship of Russia in the high-tech class.

• 2006 Alps , Eiger - 2nd place at the Russian Championship in the technical class, Grand-Joras - 3rd place at the Russian Championship in the technical class, Matterhorn , Tien Shan , p. Pogrebetskogo (Z) - 1st place at the Russian Championship in the high-tech class .

• 2007 Pamir-Alai, Aksu - 1st place in the championship of Russia in the technical class ^[10] , Karakoram , Bolshoi Trango (SW), singing, July, 2nd place in the championship of Russia in the technical class, Karakoram , Bolshoi Trango - 3rd place at Russian Championship in high-tech class, Caucasus, Tsey , 1st place in Russian Championship in full-time rock class.

• 2008 Pamir-Alai, c. 4810, February, 2nd place in the Russian Championship in technical class, 1st place in the Golden Ice Ax nomination ^[11] , Caucasus, Uzunkol - 3rd place in the Russian Championship in full-time rock class.

• 2009 Sayany , Ergaki, 1st and 2nd place at the Russian Championship among women's teams in the full-time rock class.
• 2010 Pamir-Arai, p. Blok pioneering, 2nd place in the Championship of Russia in the ice-snow class. Caucasus, Yerydag, 1st place at the Russian Championship in the full-time technical class among women's teams
• 2011 Caucasus Mountains, winter ascent to the c. Ushba 6A, 1st place in the ice-snow class of the Championship of Russia. Pamir-Alai, Kamin Karor, full-time Russian Mountaineering Championship in the technical class. 1st place men and 1st, 2nd place women. Karachay-Cherkessia Russian Championship, rock class, men 1 place, women 1 place.
• 2012 Pamir-Alai, Kamin Karor, full-time Russian Mountaineering Championship in the technical class. 1st place women. Karachay-Cherkessia Russian Championship, rock class, men 1st and 3rd place, women 1st, 2nd, 3rd place.

• Interview with Valery Viktorovich about the Russian Championship in Tse, Caucasus (2007)