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Obi

Japanese girls in kimono. Both obi are tied with a popular drum bow ( taiko musubi )

Obi ( 帯 帯 , lit. "belt") [1] are several different types of Japanese belts worn by both men and women over kimonos and keikogi .

Content

Male and female obi

The male obi, as well as the obi for martial arts , is relatively simple and narrow, no more than 10 centimeters wide, and tied with a simple knot.

The female obi reaches 30 centimeters wide and 4 meters long, tied with a complex large decorative bow on the back, and usually costs more than the kimono itself [2] . There are complex etiquette rules about which obi can be worn in which situations and with which bow they should be tied.

Types of obi

 
Fukuro-obi and furisode in a shop window

Obi have evolved throughout Japanese history. The following types are used today: [3]

  • Maru-obi, an old hard brocade belt. It is worn with especially solemn kimonos.
  • Fukuro-obi, modernized by maru-obi, the brocade on it is located only on the front side.
  • Nagoya-obi, narrowed along the entire length, except for the patterned part.
  • Hanhaba Obi, a narrow modern belt.
  • Haka-obi, soft and narrow belt.
 
Nagoya Obi
 
Maru obi
 
Fukuro obi
 
Two-sided thuya obi
 
Hanhaba Obi

Obi geishas and courtesans

 
Differences in the hairstyle and tying of the belt for maiko (left) and geisha (right)
 
Oiran in full vestment

By obi in Japan, you can determine the profession of a carrier from the sphere of traditional Japanese entertainment.

The geisha belt is the widest - in the XVIII century, obi were about a meter wide, and after tying it, sometimes only the woman's head was visible. There is evidence that this version of ob was tied up so difficult that it was impossible to untie it on its own [4] . The students of the geisha students from Kyoto - maiko - obi are very similar to the obi of full-fledged geishas, ​​except that its ends hang freely from the back, and not tied [5] . In Japanese prostitutes ( yujo ) and courtesans, the obi was tied in front with a special knot [6] . Contrary to popular belief, not only the yujo was tied to the front belt. A simple knot “Taiko” belt was tied in front by married ladies [7] . Yujou was considered "wife of the day," so they also tied a belt in front.

Ob Accessories

The lace with which obi is tied (obi-jime) is fixed with jewelry, obi-home . Netsuke is attached to the obi. The female obi for stiffness is supported by the obi-makura pad. In addition, a small “obi-ita” plaque is placed in front of the obi layers, preventing wrinkles. When putting on an obi to tighten the waist, use auxiliary Kosi-Khimo tapes.

 
Obi makura
 
Obi-jime
 
Obi-ita
 
Koshi himo
 
Obi-Dome

Notes

  1. ↑ Academic spelling resource AKADEMOS Institute of the Russian Language V.V. Vinogradova RAS.
  2. ↑ Mayumi Yoshida Barakan, Judith Connor Greer. Tokyo city guide . - 1996. - S. 132. - 368 p. - ISBN 0804819645 .
  3. ↑ Myth Portal: Ob species
  4. ↑ Japanese geisha in the past and present (neopr.) (Inaccessible link) . Date of treatment September 2, 2009. Archived March 2, 2009.
  5. ↑ Arguments and Facts “What does a geisha have under a kimono?”
  6. ↑ "Geisha and Yujou (please do not confuse!")
  7. ↑ Kazumasa Ogawa "Japanese Costumes Before the Restoration"

Links

Source - https://ru.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title= Obi&oldid = 99957330


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Clever Geek | 2019