Duffle coat ( English duffle coat ) is a single-breasted three-quarter- length straight silhouette coat , made of thick woolen fabric and equipped with a hood . This is the only model of the classic coat with a hood, which has been produced since 1890. In Great Britain, duffle coat is also called the term monty coat - nicknamed by British Field Marshal Bernard Montgomery , who often wore this coat.
The distinctive features of the duffle coat are the hood, large patch pockets, shoulder pads, oblong wooden or bone buttons-fangs, as well as leather loops or textile cord (thanks to such fittings duffle coat, it is convenient to fasten and unfasten with gloves ). In addition, many duffle coats are sewn from double-layered fabric, the inner part of which is decorated with a pattern in a plaid cage . Most of the composition of the fabric (70-80%) is in the wool, the remaining share - in synthetics. However, sometimes there are expensive daflkoty from 100% wool, as well as cheap models, consisting of synthetics by more than 50%.
The duffle coat is a predominantly male coat, although today female models are also produced.
Content
History
The predecessor of duffle coat can be considered the Polish frock coat, which was quite popular in the middle of the XIX century. Like the duffle coat, it was fitted with a hood and oblong clasps, but there were no pockets on it, and its design was very different from the current coats. More or less modern duflkoty appeared only at the very end of the XIX century. The British Admiralty ordered these coats for navy officers, but over time, dough coat was also worn in other parts of the British army.
During World War II, a duffle coat could often be seen at Field Marshal Bernard Montgomery, nicknamed Monty, who made a great contribution to the Allied victory in North Africa. As a result, the British began to call daflkoty the term Monty coat - “Monty coat”. With the origin of the main name of this coat, however, things are not so clear. It is believed that it comes from the name of the Belgian city Duffel (Duffel), where they once produced a good coarse wool fabric. However, duffle coats were not sewed from it, and they were not manufactured in Duffel either [1] .
After World War II, the army’s unclaimed supply of duffle-bunks went on sale and became popular among civilians. The firm Gloverall, which implemented them, in 1954 produced its own original model of duffle coat and achieved leading positions in the market of these coats. In particular, it was she who made the duffle coat for the members of the British Olympic team in 1980, as well as for the participants of the 1979 transglobal expedition. In addition, duffle cars began to produce many other brands - both mass-market and expensive designer ones. Nowadays, the range of these coats is very wide, although the peak of their popularity has already passed - it fell on the 1950s and 1960s.
Varieties
Duffle bags can be classified by color, length, accessories and some other parameters. The most classic color for this coat is beige or camel (as it is called in England ). In addition, the category of classics include dark blue, brown and gray duffle. Some modern models are painted in much brighter colors - there are even red and orange specimens.
The very first duffle coats were rather short, but during the Second World War, longer models, which reached about the knee, were popular [1] . This length today can be called a classic, but there are also significantly shorter models on sale. In addition, some firms produce elongated duffle coats for tall people and for lovers of as long as possible coats.
Accessories for classic duffle knit are made of wood (buckles) and jute (loops). More modern models are often supplied with horn buckles and leather loops. On low-cost mass-market duffles, clasps are usually made of plastic, and loops can be made of synthetic materials.
Wearing rules
The duffle coat is one of the most informal coat patterns, and therefore it does not harmonize well with strict clothing such as business suits. On the other hand, a duffle coat can look good with informal suits made from textured materials (for example, from tweed ), as well as jeans , thick chinos, knitwear and various unpaired trousers: from velveteen , tweed, flannels , wool twill . Woolen or cashmere scarves, knitted hats, tweed caps can be chosen as accessories [2] .
Among the shoe models, duffle shoes and shoes with open lacing ( derby ) are very well suited. Oxfords (models with closed lacing) will be relevant only if they have a lot of decorative perforations (that is, if they are brogues [1] ). Monks as well as chakka boots can be a good choice. Chelsea boots are less suitable. Sneakers and sneakers with duffle coats usually look alien, as do loafers .
The range of situations in which the duffle coat looks appropriate, is quite wide. This coat can be put on, going for a walk, a tour or meeting with friends, a country trip or even a small hike. However, it is not suitable for any formal situations, because it looks very informal and easy [3] .
Duck Coats Manufacturers
Currently, many brands offer duffle cars, but not everyone can boast of British production. Among those who keep it and moreover it specializes in duffle coats, we should mention Gloverall, Original Montgomery, London Tradition and British Duffle. In addition, quality duffle bags can be found at Burberry , but they are very expensive. Relatively inexpensive options are found in Merc, H & M , ZARA , GAP , Mango and several other mass market brands.
See also
- Bekesha
- Pea jacket
Notes
- ↑ 1 2 3 Duffle Coat History, Details & Buying Guide - Gentleman's Gazette (Eng.) (Neopr.) ? . www.gentlemansgazette.com. The appeal date is January 15, 2019.
- ↑ With what to wear a duffle coat . MyDuffleCoat.ru .
- ↑ Bernhard Retzel. Gentleman. - Moscow: AST, 2011. - p. 199.
Links
- Paddington fashion; THE HISTORY OF ... DUFFEL COATS / Independent, 20 December 1998
- THE DUFFLE-COAT / Vogue encyclo
- The Dictionary of Fashion History , 2010 ISBN 9781847885333 , page 245