Pastille - a confectionery made from dried fruit and berry puree or juice [1] [2] . A dish of Russian cuisine [3] (known since the XIV century.).
| Paste | |
|---|---|
| Included in national cuisines | |
| Russian cuisine , Tatar cuisine | |
| Place of origin | |
| Components | |
| The main | applesauce or pulp of berries, honey or sugar |
| Possible | egg white |
Content
Etymology
Probably pastille comes from lat. pastillus , which means a tortilla [1] .
It is first mentioned in Domostroy : “bed” [4] and the letter of Ivan the Terrible from 1578 to the Kirillo-Belozersky monastery : “post” - “a delicacy of berry juice” [5] [6] . According to V. Pokhlebkin , marshmallow has been known since the XIV century [3] , and, according to local tradition, it was invented by the inhabitants of Kolomna [7] . Analogs are known in other European countries (e.g. pâte de fruits in France). Since the 19th century, the Kolomna and Rzhev marshmallows were exported to European countries [3] . Average Greek. παστῖλος - a ball of dough, a flat cake is found in 28 charges against John Chrysostom of the Cathedral under Oak 59 of the code [8] of the work of Patriarch Photius “Library” , which was written before 857 [9] .
History
The pastille was made from whipped mashed apples , sour Russian varieties ( Antonovka , Titovka, Zelenka) [3] [11] [12] , as well as the pulp of berries ( lingonberries , mountain ash , raspberries , currants ) [3] . The second important component of pastilles is honey , and sugar since the 19th century [3] . The third (optional) component of pastille, used since the 15th century , is egg white, which was needed to give the pastille a white color [3] . Traditionally, pastille was made in a Russian oven : it gives the effect of gradually decreasing heat, which ensures uniform drying of the paste from applesauce, honey, sugar and protein, applied in a thin layer on a fabric on wooden frames. Several layers of the paste that has passed the initial drying are layered on top of each other, after which they pass the secondary drying in wooden boxes made of alder in the furnace [13] .
According to S.T. Aksakov , at the end of the 18th century “thick, sugar or honey pastilles, filtered through a radish, were called“ Russian ”, and Tartars — thin as skin, with all berry seeds, were quite sour in taste” ( Bagrova-grandson’s childhood "). Freshly picked berries served as the basis for the preparation of both.
Before the revolution of 1917, Kolomenskaya ( Kolomna ), Rzhevskaya ( Rzhev ) and Belevskaya ( Belev ) marshmallows were especially famous. Kolomenskaya was homogeneous. Kolomenskaya was manufactured at the factories of I. A. Kupriyanov (founded in 1735 by the Shervavins) and K. F. Chuprikov (founded in 1860). In addition to clutch, apple and sugar marshmallows, jam and sweets were made here [14] . In Rzhevskaya (also having a long tradition of production) layers of apple marshmallow were interbedded with two or three darker and thinner layers of rowan and lingonberry marshmallow [3] . In 1888, a large industrialist and merchant, Ambrose Prokhorov, opened in Belev the production of puff Belev ("Prokhorov") pastille [15] .
In Soviet times , a simplified version of Russian pastilles in the form of small white bars was developed, which is manufactured industrially and is widely used. It tastes more like marshmallows to taste. The fruit marshmallow is eaten by the heroine of Platonov’s novel “ Foundation Excavation” (1930)
The revival of the pre-revolutionary recipe for Kolomna pastila is associated with the opening in January 2009 in Kolomna of the Kolomenskaya Pastila museum, where visitors can try and purchase pastila made from Antonov apples made according to old recipes [7] [11] [12] [16] . The museum is located in the building of the former shop of sweets, built at the beginning of the XIX century by merchants Suranovs next to the St. Nicholas Church in Posad and the Kremlin .
The tradition of homemade pastilles has been preserved to our days in Belev (see Belevskaya pastila ) [15] , as well as in Kolomna (see Kolomna pastila ).
See also
- Pastilles (values)
- Blancmange
- Jam
- Jelly
- Confiture
- Marmalade
- Jam
- Fig
- Churchkhela
Notes
- ↑ 1 2 Pastila , Great Soviet Encyclopedia. - M.: Soviet Encyclopedia, 1969-1978.
- ↑ Pastila , Big Encyclopedic Dictionary.
- ↑ 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Pokhlebkin V.V. Culinary Dictionary
- ↑ Domostroy, Sylvester edition 43. But it’s just that the husband will stockpile every stock and lean in a year, and
- ↑ Izmail Ivanovich Sreznevsky “Materials for the dictionary of the Old Russian language on written monuments. Volume 2 L - P "(1902) count. 1263
- ↑ See the article “Marshmallow” in the Fasmer dictionary .
- ↑ 1 2 Kolomna. The official website of the Administration of the city district Archived December 16, 2013.
- ↑ "εἰκοστὸν ὄγδοον ὅτι ἐν θρόνῳ ἀποδύεται καὶ ἐνδύεται καὶ πάστιλον τρώγει ·" ("twenty-eighth that he dressed and undressed in his high place) and eaten there.
- ↑ BIBLIOTHÈQUE DE PHOTIUS. 59 Actes du Synode du Chêne.
- ↑ Yu.A. Akhmetzyanov . Tatar dishes . Ed. 2 (in Russian) // Kazan: Tatar book publishing house, 270 p., 1969 p. 197
- ↑ 1 2 Simakov V. Museum of Pastila in Kolomna
- ↑ 1 2 Ogilko I. In Kolomna, the Museum of Pastilles was opened
- ↑ Pokhlebkin V.V. Culinary Dictionary
- ↑ Soza L.N. Post-reform Kolomna: on the way to an industrial city. - Kolomna: Moscow. state reg. social.-gum. Inst., 2012 - C. 99.
- ↑ 1 2 Miracle with the scent of Antonovka
- ↑ Return of the Kolomna Marshmallow: Interview with the Executive Director of the NP City-Museum Archived on March 17, 2009.
Literature
- GOST 6441—96 “Pastry pastry. General specifications "