Okhaben ( ohoben, ohoben , from ohabit , that is, to embrace ) - old Russian top men's and women's clothing made of homemade cloth or kamlot ; analogue zipuna and Zhupana in the west of Russia , in the Commonwealth .
Ohaben was widespread among the nobility in the XV and XVI centuries, the upper wide garment with a turndown collar, among the Russian princes and the governor, also queens and boyars , as a dress. In the late 1670s, the Ohaben fell out of use among the nobility and became the clothing of commoners .
In the 16th — 17th centuries, the cut of an ohaben was similar to a single row , but it was usually sewn with a large collar that went down to the shoulder blades on its back. Low swing long clothing (to the ankle). Front ohaben buttoned at the buttonhole. On each side there are long cuts from hem to sleeves. The arms were threaded into the slits, and the sleeves were tied at the back. Sleeves are long, straight. Collar quadrangular turn-down. The collar could reach the middle of the back.
Ohaben was sewed from expensive fabrics - hunt ( silk with gold and silver), satin , velvet or brocade . On the chest could be a stripe (embroidery).
The word Ochaben had another meaning, in Russia, and defined separated from the city by a wall , in the ancient Russian cities, a part or suburb of these cities [2] .
Notes
- ↑ Ill. 10. Russian clothing in the XIV to the XVIII century, the hunt and hat // Historical description of clothing and weapons of Russian troops, with drawings, compiled by the highest command : in 30 tons, in 60 books. / Ed. A.V. Viskovatova . - T. 1.
- ↑ Ohaben // Great Encyclopedia : In 22 volumes (20 tons and 2 extras) / ed. S.N. Yuzhakov. - SPb. : Publishing Association "Enlightenment", 1900-1909.
Literature
- Ochaben // Explanatory Dictionary of the Living Great Russian Language : in 4 t. / Ed.-comp. V.I. Dahl . - 2nd ed. - SPb. : M.O. Wolf Typography, 1880–1882.
- Ochaben // Great Encyclopedia : In 22 volumes (20 tons and 2 extras) / ed. S.N. Yuzhakov. - SPb. : Publishing Association "Enlightenment", 1900-1909.
- Col. V. F. Shperk , Fortification Dictionary, edition of the Military Engineering Academy of the Red Banner named after V.V. Kuibyshev (VIA), Moscow - 1946.
- E. Kireyeva , “Costume history. European costume from antiquity to the 20th century. ”Moscow. Education. 1976
- Rogov A. A, Khatsko KN , Experience in the reconstruction of a female ohabnia of the 17th century from the collection of the State Historical Museum [Electronic resource] // History of military affairs: research and sources. - 2014. - T. IV. - p. 435-463. < http://www.milhist.info/2014/03/11/rogov_xacko > (11.03.2014)
- R.M. Kirsanova . Ochaben // Suit in Russian artistic culture of the 18th - first half of the 20th centuries: Encyclopedia experience / ed. T. G. Morozova , V. D. Sinyukov . - M .: Great Russian Encyclopedia , 1995. - p. 188-189. - 383 pp., Ill. with. - 50 000 copies - ISBN 5-85270-144-0 .
- R.M. Kirsanova . Ochaben // Pink ksandreyka and dramedam scarf: Costume is a thing and an image in Russian literature of the XIX century. / ed. E. B. Kuzmina . - M .: Book, 1989. - S. 160-161. - 286 s. - 55 000 copies - ISBN 5-212-00130-7 .