The sleeve [1] ( Dutch: mouwtje ; from mouw , “sleeve” [2] ) is an element of warm outerwear, which is a hollow cylinder made of fur or thick fabric (often multi-layered), inside of which hands are hidden, inserted into side holes. Some couplings are equipped with ropes - long (to throw around the neck) or short (so that you can hang the coupling on a hook) [3] . The clutch design often includes a pocket serving as a wallet .
Content
History
Couplings are known in Renaissance Italy from the second half of the 15th century [4] . At the court of the Duke of Ferrara, as early as 1475, maneza (the name of the coupling in the Ferrara dialect of the Emilian-Romagnole language [5] ) with lamb fur was mentioned.
Couplings originated from sleeves of a special shape, as indicated by the names of the coupling in Italian and French: ital. manicotto (from manica "sleeve") and fr. manchon (from manche "sleeve"), respectively. At the beginning of the XVI century, the clutch became popular among wealthy people in other European countries, especially in France (during this period, part of the Italian territory became part of France as a result of the Franco-Spanish wars for the partition of Italy ). The clutch was made from expensive fabrics lined with fur or velvet. Outside on the clutch, one could see images of emblems. At the court of King Francis I, the coupling was called fr. contenance (from contenance "capacity") and bonne grâce . In France, the last third of the XVI century, the coupling becomes an element of men's wardrobe.
One of the surviving early images of couplings is contained in the “Book of National Costumes” by Cesare Vecellio , created in Venice in 1599. In Venice, the coupling was called manizza in those days. By that time, the coupling was already in use throughout Italy.
In the XVII century, couplings appeared in Russia . The word coupling comes from nid. mouwtje , which indicates the role of the Dutch in its distribution during the reign of Peter I.
By the beginning of the XVIII century, the clutch was reduced in size, elegantly decorated. The greatest distribution of this product was in the second half of the XVIII century, when the couplings increased from year to year in size. There is evidence that in Venice men wore raincoats with hoods along with mink and fox fur couplings.
Small female couplings begin to increase from 1780 and reach maximum sizes in 1820. Over the course of the 19th century, the sleeve, having decreased in size, has become a fashion accessory for women’s clothing, and male couplings are almost out of use. An example of a fashionista with a clutch is the heroine of the famous painting by Kramskoy (1883).
In the XX century, female couplings, once forgotten, returned to fashion in Italy in 1911-1912, and in Russia on the eve of the revolution [6] . The coupling as an accessory finally went out of use in the interwar period (1920-1930s) with the spread of warm road transport [7] .
Gallery
The restored costume of Princess Anastasia with a clutch
J.E. Lyotard Amy Jean de la Rive (c. 1758)
E. Vigee-Lebrun - Portrait of Madame Mole-Reymond (1786)
Count Pavel Karlovich Ferzen in 1852
Actress and singer Amelie Diterle In 1908
A. Ender - Girl on a frozen lake in Norway (until 1920)
Participants of the Venice Carnival in 2004
Notes
- ↑ Coupling // Explanatory Dictionary of the Living Great Russian Language : in 4 volumes / auth. V.I. Dahl . - 2nd ed. - SPb. : Printing house of M.O. Wolf , 1880-1882.
- ↑ Coupling . The etymological Russian-language dictionary of Fasmer . www.slovopedia.com. Date of treatment August 1, 2019.
- ↑ There is also a type of coupling that is attached to the handle of a pram .
- ↑ MANICOTTO in "Enciclopedia Italiana" (neopr.) . www.treccani.it. Date of treatment August 1, 2019.
- ↑ In the dialect of the modern Ladin language , which is spoken in Val di Fassa , the more ancient form of this word is preserved - manecia / manicia, which has received the meaning “glove” Mondo Ladino 38/2014 .
- ↑ Russian costume: 1890-1917. Vol. 5. M .: Vseros. theatrical. about-in, 1972.P. 22.
- ↑ Katherine Lester, Bess Viola Oerke. Accessories of Dress: An Illustrated Encyclopedia . - Courier Corporation, 2013-02-19. - 610 s. - ISBN 9780486140490 .
Literature
- Clutch // Brief Encyclopedia of Household / Ed. A.I. Revina . - M .: Soviet Encyclopedia, 1960. - T. 1. - S. 358. - 770 p.
- R. M. Kirsanova . Clutch // Costume in Russian artistic culture of the 18th - first half of the 20th centuries: Experience of the encyclopedia / ed. T. G. Morozova , V. D. Sinyukova . - M .: Big Russian Encyclopedia , 1995. - S. 181-182. - 383 p.: Ill. with. - 50,000 copies. - ISBN 5-85270-144-0 .
- L.V. Belovinsky . Clutch // Illustrated encyclopedic historical and everyday dictionary of the Russian people. XVIII - beginning of XIX century / ed. N. Ereminoy . - M .: Eksmo, 2007 .-- S. 401 .-- 784 p.: - ill. with. - 5,000 copies. - ISBN 978-5-699-24458-4 .