Tie

The name “tie” in Russian comes from the Netherlands. halsdoek and him. h.Halstuch , which means "neckerchief." However, in European languages ​​another root is more common - from Fr. cravate . From French, this word migrated to many European languages ​​(for example, German Krawatte , Spanish Corbata , Ukrainian Kravatka , Roman Cravată , Turkish kravat , Polish krawat ). The French word, probably, comes from “croat” (“Croatian”) ^[1] .

The color and pattern of the tie are selected in accordance with other items of clothing and the event. For daily wear, dark ties are used with a small repeating pattern or with one larger pattern that does not attract much attention. Dark ties are usually worn with light shirts.

• Tie-samovyaz (ordinary tie, requiring tie)
• Tie regatta (the knot is already formed and has an elastic band for fastening around the neck)
• Bolo Tie
• Tie scarf
• The bow tie
• Bow tie

The first mention. Ancient History

The first mention of ties can be found in the history of ancient Egypt , where a piece of fabric of the correct geometric shape, thrown over the shoulders, served as a kind of symbol of the social status of its owner. Also, one of the first ties worn by the ancient Chinese . This is evidenced by stone statues near the tomb of Emperor Shihuandi - bandages resembling modern ties are tied on the necks of nobles and soldiers. However, these dressings were too far from modern ties both in the way they were worn and in shape and were deprived of the main attribute of the modern tie - the knot.

Prior to this discovery, Roman legionnaires who wore the so-called “focale” were considered to be the inventors of the tie. Their images were preserved on the column of Emperor Trajan , erected in honor of his victories in 113 AD e. On the bas-reliefs of the column, encircling it with a spiral ribbon, you can count 2500 figures of Roman warriors in armor. Most of them have knotted scarves around their necks. The appearance of neckerchiefs in ancient Rome marked the beginning of the era of ties in the modern sense of the word.

Further History

From the end of the 16th century, men wore camisoles . And as a decoration, they wore a round corrugated hard collar. Often it was a large disk covering the neck, which in thickness could reach several centimeters. It was made of white fabric and starch so that it did not lose shape.

Over time, he was replaced by a wide turn-down collar with teeth, which covered his shoulders. This style of collar was sometimes called "van-dejk". It was worn, for example, by Puritans .

It is assumed that when Croatian officers, who in the 17th century wore bright silk neckerchiefs, were invited to the court of French Queen Anne of Austria as a reward for their courage and valor shown during the Thirty Years War, King Louis XIV himself noticed their unusual accessory, which I could not resist and also tied myself to something similar, becoming the first legislator of the necktie fashion in France, and therefore throughout Europe. Hence one of the versions of the origin of the French word cravate (fr. - tie), as a derivative of the self-name of the Croats. ^[2]

In the XVII century, a long vest came into fashion, which men wore under a usual camisole. A scarf was tied around his neck like a scarf . He wound several times around his neck, and his loose ends hung down on his chest. Picturesque canvases of the end of the XVII century indicate that by that time such neckerchiefs were extremely popular. They were made from muslin, batiste and even lace.

There were many options for nodes on such a scarf. The bow looked like a modern bow tie. As you know, there were at least a hundred ways to tie a neckerchief. They say that the English dandy Brammel (Brummel) , who had an influence on men's fashion, could spend all morning trying to tie a neck scarf according to all the rules.

In the XVIII century, a neckerchief with long ends began to be called a tie, and in the second half of the XIX century in appearance it already looked like a modern tie. He was also called a tie-samovyaz. Shirts with a collar came into fashion. Now the tie was tied with a knot under the chin, and its long ends hung down on the starchy shirt. It was at this time that the tie became the way we know it today. It should be noted that without the subsequent spread of fashion for wearing ties in England, they would hardly have acquired the meaning that they have in modern business fashion. In England, wearing ties was elevated to the rank of high art, and the gentleman was offered a choice of up to hundreds of different ways of tying. It was also believed that the most serious offense for a man could be a statement about his tie, "an offense from which you can wash off only with blood."

During the French Revolution (1789-1799), the color of croatus indicated the political convictions of man. In the 19th century, the dandies of European society rediscovered this accessory. It was then that the tie ceased to be the property of some military men and politicians and migrated to the wardrobe of ordinary citizens.

In 1827, the famous writer Honore de Balzac wrote a book called The Art of Wearing a Tie, in which he described the aesthetic need to tie a tie. The Byron-style tie was a broadly tied, non-tightening scarf. The "tragic" tie of black color was an accessory of mourning and uniform. “Walter Scott” was sewn from checkered fabric. The white tie was intended for ceremonial clothes of balls, evenings and dinner parties; it was supposed to be worn with a tailcoat or tuxedo, but in no case with a jacket. It should be added that in the time of Balzac, ties were silk, woolen, satin with various patterns.

In 1924, all options for neckerchiefs and scarves were told the final “no”: American entrepreneur Jesse Langsdorf patented his “perfect tie”. Such a tie was sewn - and is still being sewn - of three parts cut along the oblique. The consequence of this patent was the widespread displacement of transverse ties and the standardization of long ties with stripes, oblique cells or "paisley". These drawings became the basis for English club and college ties, allowing their owners to communicate their affiliations in such a simple way.

In the late 1990s, two researchers, Thomas Fink and Yong Mao, both from the Cavendish Laboratory at Cambridge University, used mathematical modeling to conclude that using just nine movements to tie a tie can be done in 85 different ways. . Accordingly, there are at least 85 ways to tie a tie. ^[3]

Analyzing the findings of the publication of British scientists, the Swedish mathematician Michael Weidemo-Johansson from the Royal Institute of Technology in Stockholm noticed that the Ediety node, which uses the character of the film “ The Matrix: Reboot ” Merovingen , was not listed in a study at the University of Cambridge. He found that this study ignores nodes that have multiple loops. Weidemo-Johansson and three of his colleagues developed a special encoding of possible actions in tie knots, denoting them with the letters W, T and U, where, for example, U meant "stick the wide end under the narrow one." As a result of computer calculations, scientists came to the conclusion that there are more than 177 thousand options for nodes. However, mathematicians have stipulated that not all possible nodes are suitable for practical use in this context, for example, there are nodes where the wide end is turned out or some nodes require a tie that is too long. ^[4] There is a tieknots.johanssons.org site with a random node generator.

Some popular tie knots:

• tie clip (Eng. Tie bar, tie clip ) - a device for attaching a tie to the front of the shirt; came into fashion in the 1920s and remains popular nowadays.
• collar pin (eng. Collar pin ) - a large English pin , with which the ends of the collar are chipped under a tie; were at the peak of popularity in the 1930s.
• collar bar (English Collar bar ) - an analog of a pin for a collar, differs in that it does not spoil the fabric with punctures; considered an obsolete accessory.
• tie pin (eng. Tie pin, tie tack ) - originally an accessory for attaching a tie or neck scarf to clothes or fixing a knot; currently used as decoration.
• Tie chain is an analogue of a tie clip, the back strap with a hole clings to the shirt button, and the ends of the tie are passed between the strap and the chain.

• In 1692, near the city of Steinkerk ( Belgium ), the British military camp unexpectedly attacked the British. Caught by surprise, the French officers did not have time to tie their ties according to etiquette, but only casually wrapped them around their neck. Nevertheless, they defeated the British, and the court fashion was enriched with a tie “a la Steinkerk” - from a thin cambric with lace , the end of which was passed through a camisole loop. The popularity of the Steinker heroes was so great that even women wore ties that were named after them.
• The English king Jacob II , buying such a neckerchief by the day of his coronation , paid 36 pounds 10 shillings - a considerable amount at that time ( 1685 ).
• In the second part of the film " Back to the Future ", which describes the events of 2015, wearing two ties at the same time is in fashion.

• Pioneer tie
• Plastron (tie)
• Stolypin tie
• Colombian tie

• Tie // Brief Encyclopedia of Household / Ed. A.I. Revina . - M .: Soviet Encyclopedia, 1960. - T. 1. - S. 130-131. - 770 s.
• R. M. Kirsanova . Tie // Costume in Russian artistic culture of the 18th - first half of the 20th centuries: The experience of the encyclopedia / ed. T. G. Morozova , V. D. Sinyukova . - M .: Great Russian Encyclopedia , 1995. - P. 74-76. - 383 p.: Ill. with. - 50,000 copies. - ISBN 5-85270-144-0 .
• R. M. Kirsanova . Tie // Pink Xandrayka and Grandfather's Scarf: Costume - a thing and an image in Russian literature of the XIX century. / ed. E. B. Kuzmina . - M .: Book, 1989. - S. 66-67. - 286 p. - 55,000 copies. - ISBN 5-212-00130-7 .
• L.V. Belovinsky . Tie // Illustrated encyclopedic historical and everyday dictionary of the Russian people. XVIII - beginning of XIX century / ed. N. Ereminoy . - M .: Eksmo, 2007 .-- S. 116. - 784 p.: - Ill. with. - 5,000 copies. - ISBN 978-5-699-24458-4 .

• About men's tie